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Removing tub Which way do you turn the spanner nut to remove it. cw or ccw?

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Re: removing tub - Kenmore 22622 Top Load Washer Washing Machines

Counter clockwise. Catriver

Posted on Sep 20, 2007

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You can replace bearing for the tub.Instruction are here. disconnect the wire remove front panel top panel and pull cover out remove the screw need a spanner nut wrench to unscrew turn cloclwise remove the tub cone and spinning drum remove the screw .

Jun 20, 2011 | Frigidaire GLWY1343AS Top Load Washer

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How do I remove the spanner not from the shaft on my kenmore 110.9228110

Right hand threaded nut holds tub in place is direct drive, top loading washing machines. To remove the spanner nut you will need a spanner wrench

May 31, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

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Spanner Nut removal

I had my wife hold the drum while i used a large pair of channellocks and got it off!

May 16, 2010 | Washing Machines

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INNER TUB REMOBAL: Tryng to get to the drum

See the following:

A number of the diagnostics and repair procedures for these washers require you to remove the agitator(s).

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

Also see the Whirlpool Service manual for these washers with diagrams of the springs.$FILE/L-55.pdf

The tub is attached to the triangular support from below with a spring and two screws.

Once the screws and springs are removed, you should be able to lift the tub up.

Apr 09, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

3 Answers

Trying to remove spin basket (inner tub) from Washing Machine

See the Sears parts site for washer 82372110.!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82372110

The following may also help.

Jan 25, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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Hello! my tub seems to be very loose and makes loud noise when spin cycle turns on....what might that be?

you will need to remove your agitator. There should be a bolt on the top center of the agitator. you will need to remove the top of agitator or the cap to get to this bolt. once you loosen this bolt the hole agitator shold pull straight up.

Now you should see the long shaft in the center. Follow that shaft from the top down to the area where the shaft disappers and ther is a big round nut with 4 notches spaced evenly. This is call the spanner nut and you should use a spanner rench to tighten it with a small sleg or hammer ( a couple of good wacks should do. ) I know you probably do not have this tool, but at least you can verify that this is your problem. your spanner nut may be loose. this nut holds your inner tub down to the block. here is the break down

Jan 08, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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LWR50AW 9904000131 is leaking from the bottom of the center of the machine. How do we take it apart to solve this problem? Thank you, Norma Marchant


You'll need to replace the transmission seal. For this repair job you’ll require special tools like T20 Screwdriver and other similar tools. You can disassemble the machine by following the steps mentioned below--

1. Remove the front panel (screws on each side)
2 Remove the two 3/8 screws pointing upward. This will allow you to lift the top up.
3. Remove the agitator.
4. Remove the spanner nut (requires tool and its left hand thread).
5. Remove the top off the outer tub (some snap off and some have a clamp all the way around the tub)
6. Remove inter tub.
7. Remove the set screws in the mounting stem (the treaded stem that the spanner nut was on).
8. Now with the same tool remove the mounting stem.
9. The outer tub is mounted to three legs. Remove the bolts that hold it on and remove the hoses from the tub. Once it is done remove the outer tub.
10. Remove the rubber boot.
11. Prop the tub up on something so that you won’t damage the stem that the drain hose connects to and step on the seal to push it out.
12. Turn the tub back over and install the new one the same way (may want to lube it with a small amount of soap).
13. On the transmission there is a metal sleeve where the tub sits, remove it. Now reinstall the new sleeve.
14. Reassemble the washer replacing the seal, boot, tub bearing, mounting stem and spanner nut.

This may help you--


Also check the Drain pump and drain hoses inside the washer if they are firmly connected and not leaking. You can see this diagram for more details--


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Sep 20, 2009 | Amana Washing Machines

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Clutch bearing question - tub not spinning

Hello jpdarrish,

“” Having similar problem as many with machine not spinning and stalling at the first spin cycle and never completing. I opened the lid during the cycle and see the tumplers will spin ok but the tub will not spin and cannot move in either direction by hand.”” Was this the original issue before you removed the clutch? Were you taking dc or UC errors to the display?

“”As a note, the tub will turn freely by hand while the clutch is disengaged. As soon as it's seated, it's impossible to turn the tub by hand.”” By disengaged do you mean that the clutch pulley was removed from the machine and the wash basket rotates CCW freely?

With the Clutch pulley installed properly the wash basket will only rotate CCW it will no rotate CW that is normal operation. You should beable to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger and very little resistance with the clutch installed.

""I did remove the clutch assembly. The sping mechanism looks good. I used WD-40 and some bearing lube on the needle bearings. But the bearings will only turn in one direction. Is that normal? Anyway, I reassembled (took a bit of work to get it completely seated) and tried but still having same issue.""

Yes this a Drawn Cup Roller Clutch designed to rotate one way only clockwise for our FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines.
My description of how I believe the Roller clutch bearing engages the spinner shaft to spin the clutch basket.

This write up is my understanding of how this clutch system works in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW. I could be wrong and would invite any comments from the forum to help me better understand how the clutch works in wash and spin cycle;

The clutch in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing. This roller clutch bearing will allow one-way rotation freely in clockwise rotation. The FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW washer uses a reversing motor which has power supplied by the motor controller. In wash cycle the motor controller powers the motor to produce clockwise rotation which turns the clutch pulley CW. The Roller Clutch Bearing spins freely in the CW direction so only the agitator shaft will rotate driving the transmission to rotate the tumblers. In spin cycle the motor controller powers the motor CCW. This rotates the clutch pulley CCW and the Roller Clutch Bearing locks up and drives the spinner shaft CCW. At the start of a spin cycle the tumblers will rotate ¼ to ½ turn of rotation and no more as the clutch spring is wound to tension. Once the spring is wound to tension the spinner shaft begins rotating the spinner plate which rotates the transmission and wash basket CCW. Because the transmission is spinning at the same rate as the wash basket the tumblers do not rotate. This will happen if the clutch spring is broken and in spin cycle the wash basket will spin very slowly with no clothes in the wash basket and the tumblers will rotate. You will need to replace the clutch.

Dose you clutch look like the one on the left or right? My is on the right and my machine is a series 16 1st digits of my s/n are 16.


If your Roller Clutch bearings rotate freely in CW direction and you installed the clutch pulley correctly you should beable to rotate the washbasket CCW with the lid open with one finger. If it dosent we have some binding issues with the clutch install. This is from a post of a forum member I helped. He has a good install fitment process. This is a challange but I can no do to it in less then 5 min. after a dozen or so clutch removal and installs of my machine.

""The Service manual download was very helpful because it has a few pictures to show the 1/16"-1/8" gap from the shaft to the clutch face. What this really is telling you is that "if" you get all the three parts (clutch plate- bearing sleeve and cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections) to the clutch assembly back in correctly, you will end up with the 1/16"-1/8" gap. I also did my repair by tilting the machine back and working on it in place. Test the fit of each of the 3 pieces seperately so you will have a better idea what you are trying to fit. The cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections "seats" into the bottom of the tub. The bearing also seats onto the shaft in the notches. The clutch simply fits on the square shaft. The trick is getting the 3 piece assembly on with every piece seated correctly. By no means impossible, but working in limited space it was the most difficult part to do. Something that I thought of (after the repair) was to actually cut out the sheet metal directly below the clutch. This would allow easy access for the reassembly.’”

Again I believe your original clutch uses the upper bearing piece, as pipespike states you have to get the fitment of the upper bearing assembly the bearing sleeve I call it the coupler and the clutch seated properly to get that 1/16"-1/8" gap shown in the Service manual page 47.

Try a reinstall of the clutch after reviewing the above comments. After the clutch reinstall first try to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger it should offer very little resistance and not rotate in a CW direction.

Post back for any additional help. Rich

Apr 20, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Violate shaking in spin cycle

Yes you need to remove the agitator to do this and there is a nut that holds the tub down these come loose alot from the factory alot of times you can remove the nut and put lock tite on the treads and re tighten and be fine but in most of the cases you need to replace the spanner nut and the split ring under ther tub at the same time to take care of the problem the split ring isnt that hard to replace you just need to remove the splash gaurd from the top of the tub and several brackets that hod the header on and just lift inner tub out and there on the transmission is the split ring it looks just as it says just a little ring with a split in it replace these and it will solve your problem but you will need a special tool to tighten the nut back due to the room in the tub (center nut spanner tool for a g/e)

Jan 08, 2009 | GE Washing Machines

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