Question about Panasonic PT-D3500U Multimedia Projector

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Problem with Power up on PTD3500

When I turn on the projector, the green power light fails to go constantly green. It flashes red three times in between green flashes and no image is projected...

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  • Anonymous Nov 02, 2007

    I have the same exact problem with mine

  • Anonymous Dec 13, 2007

    will not power up

  • Anonymous Dec 13, 2007

    how to replace filter wheel

  • Anonymous Apr 11, 2008

    Had the problem one hour ago in a conferrence, ooops. Not able to fix it on the fly.

  • LaurieT Sep 11, 2008

    When turning on the projector it sounds like the system is starting up and the power light continuously flashes between green and gold. The lamp never turns on and after a few moments the power light flashes red and you can hear the system shut down.

  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    when i go to turn on my projecter the led is red when i press the power button three leds flash then when i press again a blinking green led comes on when i press and hold the power button the unit starts a cycle then comes on the screen after 2 - 3 minutes it turns off again

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Position reference device has probably fallen off the filter wheel, replace the filter wheel.

Posted on Dec 07, 2007

  • vyper883 Nov 11, 2010

    color wheel replacement unecessary. The reference material is simply a black strip not unlike black electrical tape. it is glued to the color wheel hub surface. You can make a strip out of electrical tape with a razor blade, and use super glue to ensure that it does not fly off again, as the PT-D3500U's color wheel spins in excess of 10,000RPM. I've done this repair- projector ran for three hours straight, with no issues. After inspection of the color wheel, repair is still solid.
    Disclaimer: I am NOT responsible if you damage up your projector by following instructions below.

    HOW TO:

    Tools Needed:
    Phillips screwdriver
    Exacto knife, or razor blade
    electrical tape/black
    latex surgical gloves- (you don't want to be touching optical components with your fingers, including the color wheel)
    Small needle nose pliers, and tweezers
    Can of compressed air

    1) Remove lamp- located at rear of the projector (if this sounds daunting to you, then stop now-take your projector to a qualified service professional)

    2) Remove six black phillips screws that hold the top lid of projector. You may have to gently pry at the front and rear of lid, as there are tabs- one in front- one in rear.

    3) Remove top mainboard and input board- these can be removed as one unit, as the mainboard and input board are bridged with a bracket. To do this:
    Remove two phillips screws from the controls(buttons) side of the main board.
    Remove four phillips screws from input bezel on the side of projector. There are two more screws, holding the bezel on the inside of projector- you'll know what I mean when you see it.
    pull the input bezel out and put it aside. You should now be able to see how the input board, and mainboard are bridged by a metal bracket. Remove the 3 screws from the bracket on the bottom. To free the input/main board assembly, you must remove all wire/ground connections from the mainboard. It will be much easier if you either label the connectors, or take some photos. This will be invaluable during reassembly.

    4) To get to the color wheel assembly, there is an acess cover that must be removed. You will know if because there is a fan mounted right above the access cover. also, you will notice two thick white wires mounted to a sensor just to the rear of that fan. This is a thermistor (temp sensor). Remove the one screw holding the thermistor in place and set aside. There are five screws holding the access cover in place. Remove them and you should now be able to gently lift the cover/fan, to access the color wheel. You may have to gently persuade the cover around some of wiring.

    5) You should now be able to see the main optical path. Take note of the shutter assembly. The shutters axle hinges on the walls of the optical block. Make sure it is seated properly before you put the cover back on.
    Make sure you are wearing your latex gloves, and avoid the temptation to touch any optical components, with the exception of the color wheel. This is NOT a optics cleaning operation, and you don't want to risk contaminating, scratching, or even worse- accidentally breaking a lens. Do NOT feel tempted to clean the color wheel. Optics cleaning should be done in a clean room, by a person who has experience with optical components.

    COLOR WHEEL REPAIR:

    Remove the two phillips screws that secure the color wheel assembly to the optical block, and lift out carefully. There is a connector with blue and white wiring- gently remove it from the color wheel assembly. IF the color wheel sensor has failed, it is because the reference material on the hub of the wheel has fallen off, or the sensor is dirty. without this strip on the hub, the sensor cannot get a reference of speed or position, so the microprocessor shuts down the projector.

    Carefully inspect the sensor to see if reference material has lodged itself onto it. If so, then clear the obstruction. If you DO find the strip reference material fairly intact, the only thing it's probably good for, is to measure it's dimensions, in order to cut a new one out of electrical tape. Do NOT try to re-glue the original to the hub, unless it is pristine with no tears, or missing pieces. Look at the color wheel hub. you will notice the area where the strip once was, because there will be adhesive residue that outlines it's proper position onto the hub. You will know what I'm talking about when you see it.

    If your original reference strip is in rough shape you should make a new one out of electrical tape. The shape must be near exact. To do this:

    lay a small piece of electrical tape onto a houshold dish/plate. Use a toothpick to measure the height of the color wheel hub-mark the toothpick with a sharpie. Use the toothpick to cut tape to length with a exacto knife. Now you can either measure the width by using the left over adhesive residue on the wheel hub itself, or use the existing strip as a reference if it's width is still intact. make ALL cuts with a razor or exacto knife onto a plate. this way we avoid stretching and distorting the shape of our new strip. Once you are satisfied with the shape, width and length of the strip, use a razor and gently scrape it off the plate. Use tweezers to pick it up- it will probably stick to the tweezer's edge- that's where you want it, so that you can manipulate it into place when the time comes. Locate the telltale adhesive residue on the color wheel hub, and do a test fit of the strip. If it was cut correctly, it will fit over the adhesive perfectly, with no overhang at the height of the hub, and the same width as the left over adhesive. If you are satisfied that it is correct, remove the strip fpr now. The adhesive properties of electrical tape are not enough to withstand the centrifugal forces of a 10,000 RPM spinning assembly, so we'll have to reinforce it with glue. Super glue fits the bill.

    Carefully apply about a 16th of an inch strip of superglue centered within the old ahesive residue.
    Quicky apply your strip- don't press down on it YET.
    Use the tweezers to slide it into place. once you have it into position, use a toothpick and press around the area of the strip to "squeegee" the superglue around the edges of the strip. If it oozes out, you've used a little bit too much glue- use a damp cloth to wipe excess WITHOUT allowing the cloth to come into contact with the color wheel glass.

    Now What:

    Allow the super glued strip to dry- you can use a small blow dryer on low, to help speed things up, and harden the super glue.

    Assemble the projector in reverse order, using your notes or pictures if needed. Double- check all your connections. If all goes well, you should be enjoying you 3500Lumen light cannon again.

    Cheers.

  • oldskooltech Dec 15, 2010

    Wow!!! Vyper883.
    You are amazing. You just saved me tones of money and time. I have been a bench tech for over 20 years but have never worked on a DLP before. Your advise on this advanced equipment got me up and running. I had no clue on where to start.
    Many thanks

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The position marker of my color wheel had fallen off and was missing. There was no chance to see where it had to be glued on. After hours of tests I have found that the position shown on the image below worked for my PT-D3500E. The marker was cut from tape to 8mm x 3mm size. Hope to save someone the time to figure this out.
Problem with Power up on PTD3500 - 1_20_2013_9_28_40_am.jpg1_20_2013_9_32_41_am.jpg

Posted on Jan 20, 2013

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