My Zanussi ZSF6160 dishwasher (2 years old)stopped heating during both the wash and drying cycles. A repair man imediately suspected the control relay rather than the heating element. He subsequently dismantled the control module and found a black burn mark on the back of the control module PCB.
This call out cost me £30 and he then quoted me a further £216 to fit a new control module!!!!!
Once I had regained my composure I armed myself with soldering iron and multimeter, took the heating element control relay off and found it to be working perfectly, thus it was the PCB trace that had failed with carrying the 10A current thus with some extra beefy wires soldered to back of PCB to avoid any further PCB burn out I have cured my dishwashers ills and it now works perfectly again! The way the repair man knew exactly what the problem was I suspect that this is a common problem (design flaw) so I want to let others know that all that is required is a bit of resoldering rather than a hefty repair bill or a new dishwasher
Is this weak PCB trace, carrying 10A, built in obsolescence?
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Re: Water not heating
Probably not, believe it or not. If they actually designed a trace to fail under load, then they could not predict when it may happen. Yes, things get more load-some over long use and demand more current, but the pcb trace was probably not intentionally too small. Let's say it was designed too small. So at first startup it carries 9.5 Amps. The next factory unit draws 9.8 amps. the next unit, wait a minute, draws 10 amps and blew the trace before it got shipped. I think this under-design was a simple oversight, but one that should have demanded a product recall from Zanussi that would send a tech to every unit to install a pcb with a beefier trace. Email Zanussi and complain! Just curious...can you measure how wide is this pcb trace? It should be about 1/4 inch wide.
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the dishwasher might accept cold water but must heat the water up during the cycle. If it does not then check the heater circuit......element...thermos NTC, with a meter for electrical continuity....some dishwashers stop mid cycle if the re is no heat but some go right through on cold depending on the make.. good luck
not familar with the code but usually wash has a built in thermo stop to wait for water to heat to correct temp,if it works normally in a rince cycle and spins out and finishes properly i would look at heat element or stat,hope this helps
E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2 E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3 E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4 E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5 E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.6 E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7 E33 Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic) pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.8 E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.9 E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door closed and water drain 8.10 E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.11 E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12 E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14 E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16 E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18 E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19 E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.19 E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20 E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22 E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed 8.23 E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23 E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24 E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25 E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26 E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27 E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28 E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29 E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30 E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31 E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.32 E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle (door open) 8.33 E91 Communications error between main PCB and user interface --- --- 8.34 E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34 EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35 EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35 Regards David Marsh
Heat that is retained in the dishes is largely responsible for drying
in this dishwasher. Since plastics do not retain heat very well, they
will not dry as well as glasses, ceramics or metal dishes. Rinse aid
must be used so that the final rinse water will sheen off of the dishes
to accommodate this drying process. The heater element at the bottom of
the tub is used to add heat during the drying cycle to aid in this
process as well. This model of dishwasher does not have any forced air
circulation system. Here are some tips that may help you resolve your
Make sure that you are using rinse
aid. Failure to properly use rinse aid can prevent proper drying.
Adjust the amount that is dispensed if necessary. Also, check to make
sure that rinse aid level decreases over time indicating that it is
being dispensed properly.
The NORMAL WASH and POT & PANS
cycles heat the final rinse water up to 140 degrees F. Use these cycles
to help the drying process.
Do not choose the air dry option.
This option cuts off the heater element during the drying process.
NOTE: The heater element is not turned on during the first 6 minutes of
the drying portion of the cycle.
Do not overload the dishwasher. Load the dishes to allow for proper water drainage.
This dishwasher has a heater fault detection circuit. If the heater is
not working, the control will detect the lack of increase in water
temperature. The dishwasher will stop and the CLEAN light will blink
seven times repeatedly. The dishwasher would not be able to be used
until the problem is corrected and the control is reset.
Just bought a Bosch dishwasher and we were told that they have no heating mechanism to dry the dishes, which is why they are more energy efficient. You are supposed to leave the door closed for at least one hour after the cycle is complete. The heat that has built up inside during the wash cycle will dry the dishes. It is also recommended to always use JetDry. If you follow this advice, the dishes will come out fine.
Check disposer plug. If a garbage disposer has been recently installed, it is possible the disposer drain plug was not removed. The drain plug is a plastic piece in the disposer that blocks the hole where the dishwasher hose connects. Also check the hose connected to the disposal. Mine apparently had a kink in it. When I straightened the hose the dishwasher drained at full speed (I recently had a plumber re-route a hot waterline. He must has bent the hose). Hope this helps. If not go to the GE website. That's where I found my answer.