I have the fridge GE TFX26PPDAww
seems like I'm rebuilding this fridge. I replaced the blue pump in the back of the fridge. This pump does have cold water coming out. BUT the ice maker does not work. Working by myself, I can't get electric to the blue pump to fill the ice cube tray. Any suggestions? Am I right about it being part WR60x0202?
The blue pump was clogged from sand in the well. I now have a filter.
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Re: ice maker part WR60x0202
Your part number is for and auger motor. I believe the "pump" you are talking about is the water valve part#-WR57X10023 if the icemaker doesn't send voltage to the valve then it would need to be replaced part#-WR30X0327
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Some things I have seen that causes this issue:
A. Plug not sealing properly in the bottom of the water reservoir
B. An issue dealing with the circulation pump. Maybe splashing water out of the reservoir while running due to crack in pump housing, especially around impeller, or hose that feeds water from recirculation pump to cold plate has a crack/split/loose connection.
sounds like a section of the dual water inlet valve relay is shorted not letting water thru you need to replace they are not too expensive also check to see if the lever on the ice tray is not in the off(up) positionand hear if water fills up the ice tray if not replace the valve.
The Thermostat Defrost its not working anymore, it doesn't defrost anymore and it acumulate ice on the gap that flows the is in between the fridge and the freezer. so what you got to do is defrost your refrigerator and remove the back wall, and locate the defrost, cut it and take it to an appliance part store, and get a new one and just put it back and it should work like new!! :)
Check the water line that goes from the house plumbing all the way to the inlet on the 'fridge. Are there any kinks? Dirt obstructing the line? You MUST BE VERY CAREFUL when pulling the 'fridge out to check. If you have a copper line, it takes NOTHING for one to kink. And as soon as it kinks...it's done.
I ended up having to remove things in this order: all shelves, ice maker insert, ice maker top ice tray, ice maker lower motor housing, shelving support rails (2), rear evaporator coil cover. This exposed the evaporator coils (which were already dry since the fridge had been off for two days) and most importantly, the defrost heater element below the coils. The heater element was easily unplugged from it's two connectors. I tested the unit with an ohm meter and it indicated it was open (infinity resistance). I then knew it was bad. I replaced it with a new unit and put everything back together in reverse order taking care to use the same screws. The fridge appears to be back in working order.
Frost is due to outside air leaking into unit. Check on back wall to see if hole for ice maker fill tube is still plugged. If not and you have no ice maker cover hole with tape. Also look for water or ice build up in bottom of freezer or ref. sections. May have a plugged drain. Let me know what you find.
Scorpio, remove the ice bin itself, dump the ice and see if you can move the bin auger by hand by turning the actuator in the rear. If the bin is ok, with the door open and the door switch held in see if the auger motor is turning when pressing the ice lever. If it's not turning the next logical step is to see whether the auger motor is getting voltage when calling for ice. Make sure the door switch is closed. The part number for the auger motor on the posted model is wr60x0202. Hope this gets you going..Catriver.