Question about Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub Upright Vacuum

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My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com

My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com

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  • Anonymous May 24, 2009

    i have the same problem. However, the brushes move fine. It's the mechanism that the brushes connect to that doesn't move. What can be done?

  • tdcassata
    tdcassata May 10, 2012

    Took apart the whole Turbine Brush Gear Box (becareful go slow as small parts fall out that you might scratch your head about if you have no experience) Between the turbine and the motor out put the middle gear was rusted stuck to the metal poll. Greased up everything and cleaned everything out. Works just as good as brand new if not better not costing me a dime. THANKS FOR POSTING THIS!!!!!!!!

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The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • fixin mom Aug 10, 2010

    This was most helpful...the only comment is that for me I needed to take a pair of pliers and gently turn the rod/post that the fan bearing was placed on as mine was slightly rusted in place. Thank you Vanger for the great step by step instructions!

  • Brian Graney Sep 19, 2012

    You Da Man. Worked like a charm.. TY Much

  • P Dawg Feb 21, 2013

    I took my vacuum to the repair shop and he asked me $100 to fix. I said no way jose and decided to do it myself and found your article. This is most amazing step by step instructions one could ask for. I was able to fix mine and save $100 ;) Thanks a lot!

  • Tina H
    Tina H Sep 27, 2013

    yippy, fixed and done!! thank you

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To fix mine: I removed the brush assembly, showing that when the machine was powered on, the square of the drive gear was not spinning. I used a flat heat screwdriver and inserted it into the square, then gently worked it back and forth until the turbine was free. Then I squirted household oil down into the hole before replacing the brushes. Has been working fine ever since.

Posted on Jul 01, 2010

  • MarinaS77 Apr 21, 2011

    Thank you very much!!!! I just fix my :)

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Vanger has a good solution, but I found my gear assembly was a metal worm gear which turned a series of plastic gears, which drives the square spindle. The metal gear caused excessive wear on the plastic gear, such that the plastic teeth are barely present. The only fix is a new plastic gear (most likely a new assembly). This is after 6 months of very occasional use of a F4914-900. Fortunately there is a 2 year warranty.

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

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The brushes are all in a row and are turned by a spindle that goes down into the brushes.it sounds like you have a lot of hair and maybe sonething caught in the gears .each brush is turned by a gear from the brush next to it all the brushes are turned by each other.the shaft that goes down into the brush assembly might be broke.unplug the unit.reach under the bottom and try to turn the brushes by hand.you shouldn't be able to.if you can then the brush drive shaft is broke.please leave feedback

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

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The brushes on your spin scrub are opperated by a turbine assembly that operates from the sucktion of the main motor first check the on off vaulve make sure it is it the on postion and also the brushes will not move intill you release the hadlle. I have found that the bearings inside the turbine assembly get rusty due to moisture the only way to fix is to either replace the turbine assembly or if you are mechanicaly inclined dissasemble the turbine and try to free up the bearings

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

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Vangar Cheva wrote an excellent step by step resolution... My fan was cracked almost in half....took the fan assembly appart (did break some of the tabs off but no ill effects noticed after reassembly...the 4 screws appear to be sufficient to hold it together).... broke the fan completely in half...cleaned the edges with acetone ...moistened with water....used Gorilla Glue to glue the fan halves together (with a clamp for a couple hours)....cleaned excess glue off...reassembled after applying lithium grease to all moving parts....problem solved.....thanks Vangar!!

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

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How do you hook the hand held tool to steam vac

Posted on Apr 12, 2010

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