Karcher pressure washer lack of pressure and intermittent noise, when not using the lance, as if pump switches off. When using the machine (K3.99M) it works but lacks pressure.
I have the same problem. After winterstorage, no pressure when sprying, and intermittant warking when no water asked.
I have check all mechanical parts, and can't find a problem with that.
I now checked the resistance of the electromotor windings and found between white and red wire 12 ohms, between white and black wire also 12 ohms, and between red and black wire 3 ohms. (condensator disconnected)
In my opinion this means that the electromotor is broken. Am I correct?
Does stuartrees01's measure the same problem on the electro motor?
I have the same problem. After winterstorage, no pressure when sprying, and intermittant warking when no water asked.
I have check all mechanical parts, and can't find a problem with that.
I now checked the resistance of the electromotor windings and found between white and red wire 12 ohms, between white and black wire also 12 ohms, and between red and black wire 3 ohms. (condensator disconnected)
In my opinion this means that the electromotor is broken. Am I correct?
Does stuartrees01's measure the same problem on the electro motor?
OK. We need to be clear about the symptoms. Let's suppose: you've connected the water supply and turned it on; you've squeezed the trigger on the lance and allowed water to flow until all air has been removed from the system; then you've released the trigger to shut off the water flow; then, and only then, you've switched on the electricity. The pump should give a short burst, then switch off because it's come up to pressure.
Are you saying that the motor will then switch on and off without you touching the trigger on the lance? If so, please look very carefully for leaks - 1. at all screw fittings on the high-pressure side between the machine outlet and the lance, and 2. at the spray nozzle itself. Don't let the machine pulse on and off for any longer than necessary to observe what's happening, as frequent switching is not good for the motor.
Let me know about these points and we'll take it from thereOK. We need to be clear about the symptoms. Let's suppose: you've connected the water supply and turned it on; you've squeezed the trigger on the lance and allowed water to flow until all air has been removed from the system; then you've released the trigger to shut off the water flow; then, and only then, you've switched on the electricity. The pump should give a short burst, then switch off because it's come up to pressure.
Are you saying that the motor will then switch on and off without you touching the trigger on the lance? If so, please look very carefully for leaks - 1. at all screw fittings on the high-pressure side between the machine outlet and the lance, and 2. at the spray nozzle itself. Don't let the machine pulse on and off for any longer than necessary to observe what's happening, as frequent switching is not good for the motor.
Let me know about these points and we'll take it from there
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The spill valve operates at approx 20% higher than specified pressure washer operating pressure. If you have any lance issues then the pressure could be running higher than specified (machine running at same pressure as spill valve operation pressure)
your machine produces a fixed flowrate of water (maybe 8 litres per minute) and your nozzle is a fixed size. the diameter of the nozzle determines the back pressure. A piece of debris could further close your nozzle orifice and increase the back pressure. Using a new lance that has the wrong nozzle fitted can also cause this issue.
The karcher barcode is on a silver sticker and is usually 15 digits long. Example 156987400000123 is actually model 1.569-874.0 and serial number 00123....
try the machine with the lance removed from the gun.
buzzing is usually the noise made by the motor when it cant turn. if the pump start to pruduce pressure but the pressure builds up too high then the motor will stop turning... faulty lance or faulty spill valve (dump valve)
If you have a Karcher then you should always post your machines barcode. The karcher barcode is on a silver sticker and is usually 15 digits long. Example 156987400000123 is actually model 1.569-874.0 and serial number 00123....
You have a cracked cylinder head caused by leaving pressure in the machine after turning it off .You wont be able to see the crack. The only solution is to replace the cylinder head.
hi mark, you do have a problem with the lance.
you need to disconnect the lance and straighten a paper clip and insert down the nozzle end.
use the machine to wash the dirt in the nozzle backward down the lance.
Dirt only in nozzle end.
if still no good, purchase some nozzle cleaners and file out nozzle very slightly.
Dear Osville,
It is not clear what type of lance or nozzel you have. You said that the machine works fine with the circulating water jet(the turbo). So it seems the machine is fine. I do sometimes service variable nozzels and variable lances. But the best solution is to replace nozzels and variable nozzles and lances with new ones. Regarding the fan spray setting it could have no pressure because it might be in the chemical setting. The chemical setting lets out a fan shape flow of water, but with less pressure. The chemical system only works on low pressure in domestic washers, that is why it needs a low pressure flat spray. The pencil jet has 2 jets comming out because if it is a lance or nozzel with ball bearings, these ball bearings must have stuck in a wrong position. Also 2 jets can come out, due to a damaged nozzel hole.
Altogether, the best advice is to buy a new nozzel or lance...which ever your machine uses. All Karcher machines have their own specific nozzels, lances and high pressure hoses. You cannot change these from one model to another.
Regards,
Fulltech.
Dear Pajodi,
I just came across your problem. I have just joined FIXYA, and solved various Karcher problems. First of all with all respect, the shop from where you bought the machine, must have told you all necessary instructions to operate your machine.
Now the soap always works on low pressure. So if you have a variable lance, turn it to low pressure. You can also remove the lance, and the soap will surely starts to work. With turbo lances, the soap system does not work. This concludes that the soap does not work when high pressure is used. Bigger machines do spray soap at high and low pressures. But these have regulating knobs, to swith off and on, the soap supply.
Regards,
MG.
I have the same problem. After winterstorage, no pressure when sprying, and intermittant warking when no water asked.
I have check all mechanical parts, and can't find a problem with that.
I now checked the resistance of the electromotor windings and found between white and red wire 12 ohms, between white and black wire also 12 ohms, and between red and black wire 3 ohms. (condensator disconnected)
In my opinion this means that the electromotor is broken. Am I correct?
Does stuartrees01's measure the same problem on the electro motor?
OK. We need to be clear about the symptoms. Let's suppose: you've connected the water supply and turned it on; you've squeezed the trigger on the lance and allowed water to flow until all air has been removed from the system; then you've released the trigger to shut off the water flow; then, and only then, you've switched on the electricity. The pump should give a short burst, then switch off because it's come up to pressure.
Are you saying that the motor will then switch on and off without you touching the trigger on the lance? If so, please look very carefully for leaks - 1. at all screw fittings on the high-pressure side between the machine outlet and the lance, and 2. at the spray nozzle itself. Don't let the machine pulse on and off for any longer than necessary to observe what's happening, as frequent switching is not good for the motor.
Let me know about these points and we'll take it from there
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