Re: Whisling noise coming out of inside the refrigerator....
The whistling is caused by the air circulating fan located just behind the light. It is easily accessed by removing the light cover and the two small hex screws above the light. To stop the whistling I simply turned the freezer off and pulled the fan cover out slightly to reveal the fan blades. I then pushed the blades down, toward the bottom of the until the blades stopped and i could feel the shaft slightly protruding from the top of the blades. Repositioning the blade has stopped the incessant whistling. Hope this helps!
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if you are talking about the motor in the freezer the ice build up could be causing the fan to beat against the ice... could be a defrost cycle problem,,,, if ice is building up on rear freezer wall you have a defrost cycle problem and the ice is forminf around fan causing fan blades to hit the ice (loud noise)
This noise is most likely coming from the evaporator fan motor that is located behind the panel just below the ice maker. There is an air duct that the fan blows through to cool the ice maker that is why the sound is heard in the ice maker area more.
The noise does not hurt anything but the motor can be replaced if it gets too annoying, it is a fairly common complaint. The part number for the motor is WR60X10185 and runs about $60.00. It is a bit challenging to get to but can be done with a bit of patience by removing everything in the freezer and taking the back panel off the inside of the freezer.
The ice maker
has completely stopped producing ice:--Check to see
whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire
along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If
this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units
you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On
others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is
in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8
degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not
produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as
necessary. The ice maker is producing ice poorly:--When an ice
maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or
when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a
defective water inlet valve.First, check the water line attached to the
back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the
water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the
refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the
water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair,
clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If
the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve. Noise can come
from these areas: The inside of
the freezer:--Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to
move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs
whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the
top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.If the freezer is on the
bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer. If the freezer is on
the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top. Over time, the
fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it
may make a loud groaning noise instead.To find out if the fan is causing
the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If
the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the
cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it. The outside back of the refrigerator:--There are three
components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the
compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer
(if self-defrosting).The compressor is a football-sized case
with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the
refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or
copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the
compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will
reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly. If the condenser fan
is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan
blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin
panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and
use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on
the blade, you will have to replace the motor.The defrost timer is often
located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick
plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The
timer must be replaced to solve this problem. The bottom of the refrigerator:--Noises detected
at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the
refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will
rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the
“Outside back of the refrigerator.” This will help.thanks.
You may have an issue with one or more of the following:
* dispenser actuator
* ice chute door assembly
* ice dispenser solenoid (if the solenoid is stuck in an open position, the ice chute door/flap would remain open allowing cold air to escape).
Uplug refrigerator and remove the ice maker so we can look at the tube that comes into the back of the ice maker. It maybe the ice maker is calling for water but ice or a crack in the tube that delivers the water is being deverted to inside the freezer area. Also look behind the fresh food compartment door and see if you can send me the model number so I will be able to go over the correct model. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
I have had the same issues. I have owned my LFX25960 for 18 months. All the cooling, noise, and condensation problems are related to 2 fans. One for the freezer/refrigerator compartments and One for the Ice Maker. The fans, apparently, are not sufficient to move enough air through the coils located behind a plastic panel in the freezer compartment. The part numbers for my fans are 1. Ice Maker 4681JB1029E and Refrig/Freezer 4681JK1004E. It is not impossible, but fairly difficult to replace them yourself. You have to remove the large slide out freezer drawer and glides. Then work the back freezer panel loose from the bottom. Be careful not to break it. It is plastic.
Routine maintenance: Pull the refrig out from the wall and blow-out the coils and fan located on the lower right rear. You might find it easier to do this by removing the cover on the lower, back of the refrig.
* If your refrigerator is under warranty, you must use an Authorized Service Company. An Authorized Service Company can be found by using our Service Locator. Enter your zip code on the Service Locator to get a listing of available service companies in your area. * You can also schedule service by calling our toll free number: 800-374-4432 M-F 9:00am - 5:30pm.
Back 2. How do I order parts?
* Parts can be ordered through an Authorized Frigidaire Parts Distributor. An Authorized Parts Distributor can be found by using our Parts Distributor Locator. Enter your zip code on the Parts Distributor Locator to get a listing of distributors in your area.
Back 3. Noises / Sounds.
* Dripping sound. During the defrost, water draining from the freezer section will drip into the pan by your compressor in the back and bottom of your refrigerator. * Air rushing or blowing. There is a fan in the freezer section and in some models in the back and bottom of your refrigerator to circulate air. This is a normal sound. * Louder when starting or coming on. Compressor operates at a higher pressure when first starting and noise should disappear as refrigerator continues to run and balance pressures. * Popping, crackling, or sizzling about once a day. If your model is self-defrosting, the defrost system utilizes a heater to remove the ice and frost from the freezer coil. During this period you will hear some expansion noises as heat is applied to the coil and you may experience some sizzling sounds as the melting water drips on the heater. * Running water. If you have an ice maker equipped model, the ice maker will call for water as the old batch of cubes is ejected and the ice maker starts to make more cubes. This will last for about 10 seconds and is normal. * Vibrating or rattling noises. The following can be sources of these noises: 1. Dish vibrating on shelf - move dish slightly. 2. Floor is uneven or cannot adequately support refrigerator. Use shims or extra support. 3. Items on top of refrigerator are rocking. Place a pad under the item or remove. 4. Refrigerator is not level. Adjust leveling legs or rollers as needed. Add shims in the back if floor is not level from front to back. 5. Refrigerator is touching wall or cabinets. See your owner's manual for space requirements. * Snapping or clicking sound. If your refrigerator is equipped with an ice maker the water valve will snap on when the ice maker is calling for water. This is normal. In some cases you may not have the water connected to your ice maker and the sound will be greater. In these cases, pull the wire signal arm (bail arm) on the ice maker in the up position to turn your ice maker off until the water supply line is installed.
Back 4. Taste and odors.
* Ice or food has a bad taste or odor. Ice and uncovered foods can pick up odors or taste from strong smelling foods in the refrigerator or freezer. Cover foods tightly and discard old ice. * Ice tastes like plastic. Plastic water lines will give off a taste when first used. It takes one or two containers of ice for plastic to stop leeching. Discard initial container of ice after installation.
Back 5. Ice maker - not making any ice.
* Freezer may not be cold enough. Temperature must be 5 F. or colder to work properly. * Water supply valve may be blocked or restricted. Supply valve must have a 1/4" opening for water to fully supply ice maker. Many self-piercing valves do not have this big of an opening. Replace water supply valve with one that has a 1/4" opening. * Water supply valve may not be open. Find and open the supply valve. * Wire signal arm on ice maker is in the up position. This position shuts off the ice maker. Pull wire arm (bail arm) down to start ice making.
Mine was making a moaning, whistling noise coming from just above the ice maker. It happened when the fan speed changed. I learned on this site that the motherboard was probably defective.
Rather than go thru GE, we found a new one online for 66 bucks. I replaced it in about ten minutes and it's all fixed. Poor materials on the original, but this site was very helpful.