Question about GE GSL25JFPBS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Whisling noise coming out of inside the refrigerator. Louder when freezer door is open. maybe ice maker area?

I have a whistling noise coming out of the inside of my GE side by side refrigerator. It seems to be coming from around the ice maker.

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The whistling is caused by the air circulating fan located just behind the light. It is easily accessed by removing the light cover and the two small hex screws above the light. To stop the whistling I simply turned the freezer off and pulled the fan cover out slightly to reveal the fan blades. I then pushed the blades down, toward the bottom of the until the blades stopped and i could feel the shaft slightly protruding from the top of the blades. Repositioning the blade has stopped the incessant whistling. Hope this helps!

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

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The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice:--Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
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If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.
Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.
The outside back of the refrigerator:--There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.
If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.
The bottom of the refrigerator:--Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”
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1. How do I get repairs done under warranty?

* If your refrigerator is under warranty, you must use an Authorized Service Company.
An Authorized Service Company can be found by using our Service Locator. Enter your zip code on the Service Locator to get a listing of available service companies in your area.
* You can also schedule service by calling our toll free number:
800-374-4432 M-F 9:00am - 5:30pm.

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2. How do I order parts?

* Parts can be ordered through an Authorized Frigidaire Parts Distributor.
An Authorized Parts Distributor can be found by using our Parts Distributor Locator. Enter your zip code on the Parts Distributor Locator to get a listing of distributors in your area.

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3. Noises / Sounds.

* Dripping sound.
During the defrost, water draining from the freezer section will drip into the pan by your compressor in the back and bottom of your refrigerator.
* Air rushing or blowing.
There is a fan in the freezer section and in some models in the back and bottom of your refrigerator to circulate air. This is a normal sound.
* Louder when starting or coming on.
Compressor operates at a higher pressure when first starting and noise should disappear as refrigerator continues to run and balance pressures.
* Popping, crackling, or sizzling about once a day.
If your model is self-defrosting, the defrost system utilizes a heater to remove the ice and frost from the freezer coil. During this period you will hear some expansion noises as heat is applied to the coil and you may experience some sizzling sounds as the melting water drips on the heater.
* Running water.
If you have an ice maker equipped model, the ice maker will call for water as the old batch of cubes is ejected and the ice maker starts to make more cubes. This will last for about 10 seconds and is normal.
* Vibrating or rattling noises.
The following can be sources of these noises:
1. Dish vibrating on shelf - move dish slightly.
2. Floor is uneven or cannot adequately support refrigerator. Use shims or extra support.
3. Items on top of refrigerator are rocking. Place a pad under the item or remove.
4. Refrigerator is not level. Adjust leveling legs or rollers as needed. Add shims in the back if floor is not level from front to back.
5. Refrigerator is touching wall or cabinets. See your owner's manual for space requirements.
* Snapping or clicking sound.
If your refrigerator is equipped with an ice maker the water valve will snap on when the ice maker is calling for water. This is normal. In some cases you may not have the water connected to your ice maker and the sound will be greater. In these cases, pull the wire signal arm (bail arm) on the ice maker in the up position to turn your ice maker off until the water supply line is installed.

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4. Taste and odors.

* Ice or food has a bad taste or odor.
Ice and uncovered foods can pick up odors or taste from strong smelling foods in the refrigerator or freezer. Cover foods tightly and discard old ice.
* Ice tastes like plastic.
Plastic water lines will give off a taste when first used. It takes one or two containers of ice for plastic to stop leeching. Discard initial container of ice after installation.

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5. Ice maker - not making any ice.

* Freezer may not be cold enough.
Temperature must be 5 F. or colder to work properly.
* Water supply valve may be blocked or restricted.
Supply valve must have a 1/4" opening for water to fully supply ice maker. Many self-piercing valves do not have this big of an opening. Replace water supply valve with one that has a 1/4" opening.
* Water supply valve may not be open.
Find and open the supply valve.
* Wire signal arm on ice maker is in the up position.
This position shuts off the ice maker. Pull wire arm (bail arm) down to start ice making.

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