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The heat just stopped working on my Estate Mod #TEDS840PQ

Estate Whirlpool Dryer, 2 years old, turns but is not heating.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Clothes dryer not heating

Hi I have a top vent Kenmore dryer. That seems to be heating up on and off. I can see the glow plus trying to ignite the gas I think what do you think is wrong..kj

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool dryer won't heat how can I fix?

Hey, I just read an article online titled, Testing for 240 Volts to Your Dryer - Without a Voltmeter, here's the link http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIY240Vtester.htm

I am not sure how you could test anything else though, such as the thermal fuse or thermostat, without the Volt/Ohm Meter. They are about $10 at any big box home store--we just went ahead and bought one.

Good luck!

Posted on May 31, 2009

dniro592006
  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Estate Dryer TGDS840JQ1 dryer runs but

when you say heat up is it at least getting warm...
you may have a igniter gone bad or your thermostat may have failed... your igniter is what has to ignite the gas to burn to make it hot. If its electric then your heating coil has failed and needs to be replaced

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer Stopped Heating

Use a multimeter to check the heating element. You can't always go by looks. Check continuity and if there is none, the element is defective. Another thing to check is the thermal fuse. It is about an inch long and is usually attached to the exhaust duct. Use the meter to check it as well and if defective, replace it. Sure hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My Whirlpool Imperial Series Dryer is 4 years old. NO Heat.

It may not be the heating element causing your problem. There are other components that can fail that will cause the same symptoms. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

If you have any questions, please let me know. Please inlcude your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) when asking questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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By far, on that machine the "thermal fuse" accounts for more than 50% of all heating problems.

Unplug machine and remove back cover. On the air chute in the middle back of the dryer you will see a small narrow bakelite device with 2 wires connected to it. It is held in with 1 screw.
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