Question about Jenn-Air JDS8850AAS Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

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Igniter works sometimes.....stove won't heat

I dont know that the broiler ever worked, but the stove did! Now it doesn't. It clicks and goes through all the motions, but no heat. At times, the igniter works, but mostly doesn't on any burner. Help?

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Re: Igniter works sometimes.....stove won't heat

Check your oven thermo. sensor at room temp. you should have between 1 to 1.1K ohms. If not replace it. You also should check your burner and oven relays.

Posted on Dec 21, 2007

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The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both.
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The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

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1 Answer

Broiler works oven doesn't heat

Based on your description, the igniter is dead.
The broiler and the oven heat each have their own igniter. Look for the characteristic glow when the oven is turned on. If it is not visible, then you will need to replace the "OVEN" igniter...
Google the stove model for repair parts and locate the igniter. Not too hard to replace... directions are packed with the new igniter...

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I have a Whirlpool Gold oven model GW395LEGB5 that won't heat. The broiler works fine. Sometimes, after the broiler is lit, the oven will heat up. But no more. Just the broiler works. Is this...

If the broiler works fine, but the oven does not, more than likely this is caused by an igniter that has gone bad. The intermittent symptoms you were experiencing is a sign that the ingiter probably became weak due to age and finally failed. The following link explains how these igniters work and how to replace one:

Since both oven manifolds are fed from the same gas source, this can be narrowed down to an igniter problem. Your oven should have the Norton type igniter. The part number for a replacement is 9782065 and can be found at for about $71, You can search around if you like, but this was the cheapest I could find it.

Your oven has interchangeable igniters. Meaning the broil manifold and bake manifold use the same type of igniter. You can swap igniters while awaiting parts, if you wish to use the oven to bake.

NOTE: If the connector plug on the ingiter you receive does not match the receptacle in your stove, you will instructed to cut the leads and connect them together using ceramic wire lugs (included in the kit you receive). Do not attempt to use standard wire lugs as they will melt. The wires and ceramic lugs are heat resistant.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

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You will most likely have to replace the oven igniter. If you have the model number you posted under, I believe the igniter for the broiler is the same as the oven broiler, and could be swapped out to get the oven working again. (of course, now the broiler won't work until that igniter is replaced) If you'd like the part number or any further advise, comment back with the full model number off the sticker just behind the lower drawer panel on the frame of the range. Tonight, you may have to finish the chicken on the stove top.

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You probably need to replace the baking igniter, (Igniter,bake burner
Part Number: AP4102011 made by MAYTAG).

I tested the igniter function by (CAREFULLY) jerryrigging a bridge to wire the BAKE igniter to the BROILER controls.(Push/click plugs accessible by opening up the stove back) Testing thebroiler controls this way the bake element remained cold. I then did the same test but connected the BROILER igniter to the BAKE controls and got a good glow. This indicates that the controls work but the Bake igniter's faulty!

You can access the bake igniter by removal of 2 screws at the front at the platform just inside the top oven. The broil and bake igniters appear to be identical but the push/click plugs are reversed at the back of the stove. (hence the CAREFUL jerry rigged wiring bridge.)The parts and wiring are pretty simple and visual once you get thecovers off. Opening up the stove back is just a matter of removingseveral screws. UNPLUG the stove before you work. If you test as Idescribed, make all connections while UNPLUGGED and then plug it inonly for the brief test. Unplug again while disconnecting/reconnecting.Hope this helps.

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