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Lost heavy water pressure. Is housing that conducts pressure supposed to have oil of some kind? It is empty.

Stopped putting out heavy pressure and then started pressure again and then stopped. The housing on the front of engine that conducts pressure and water seems to take some kind of liquid. It is empty. Should it be? It is spinning when you look inside the capped area.

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Briggs & Stratton gas power washer. This

Sounds like the unloader is not working correctly. Try replacing it and see what happens.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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  • 174 Answers

SOURCE: husky 2400 psi honda engine ran fine all day

It sounds like the bypass valve is stuck. Do you have a parts diagram?

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

woobie dog
  • 1273 Answers

SOURCE: 2-yr old troy-bilt pressure washer with honda

It sounds like an air lock. Try this: With the machine off, connect the hose to the washer and let it run for several minutes to get all of the air out of the hose, and to purge any air out of the pump. Shut off the water, and connect the high pressure hose, but not the gun. Let the water run for several minutes. stretch out the HP hose and make sure that the air is displaced. Shut off the water, connect the gun, and purge as before. Now crank it washer up. As quickly as safe to do so, open the trigger to keep water moving through the washer. It should come up on pressure very quickly. It is better during normal operation to keep water moving through the system. When I am through for a while, I shut down my washer, but leave the trigger depressed to allow the pump to stay full of water, and cool. This prevents further problems when I restart it.
Hope this was useful.

Regards --W/D--

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Pressure Washer Pump and Engine Stops Suddenly

The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.

This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.

Try this:
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).

The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.

If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

  • 174 Answers

SOURCE: Troy Bilt pressure washer model 020209 will not

A leaking gun will kill all the pressure. You may need to repair or replace the gun

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

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