Question about Garden
Stopped putting out heavy pressure and then started pressure again and then stopped. The housing on the front of engine that conducts pressure and water seems to take some kind of liquid. It is empty. Should it be? It is spinning when you look inside the capped area.
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like an air lock. Try this: With the machine off, connect the hose to the washer and let it run for several minutes to get all of the air out of the hose, and to purge any air out of the pump. Shut off the water, and connect the high pressure hose, but not the gun. Let the water run for several minutes. stretch out the HP hose and make sure that the air is displaced. Shut off the water, connect the gun, and purge as before. Now crank it washer up. As quickly as safe to do so, open the trigger to keep water moving through the washer. It should come up on pressure very quickly. It is better during normal operation to keep water moving through the system. When I am through for a while, I shut down my washer, but leave the trigger depressed to allow the pump to stay full of water, and cool. This prevents further problems when I restart it.
Hope this was useful.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.
This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).
The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.
If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 27, 2015 | 2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser
Jul 29, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Jul 02, 2010 | Culligan Sediment Water Filter Heavy Duty
Nov 27, 2009 | Plumbing
Aug 30, 2009 | 2000 Ford Expedition
Aug 03, 2009 | Honda Maxus Pressure Washer MX5222
Apr 17, 2009 | Poulan 1630 16" Chain Saw
Apr 02, 2009 | House Brand Garden
116 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!