Can't fit my rear axel

The rear brake line should run down the left frame rail from the master cylinder to the rear of the car. It will terminate to a bulkhead reverse flare fitting into a rubber hose above the center of the axel differential cover, a tee fitting will tee the lines to each rear wheel backing plate, reverse flare fitting for wheel cylinder. If brake fluid is present (droplets) at brake drums, Replace the wheel cylinders.

Raise the rear wheel safely (with a motorcycle stand of some type) Loosen the rear axel (27mm wrench works good) Adjust the tensioner bolts at the back of the swing arm(both sides) evenly until the belt is within specs. Turn the wheel forward and check to make sure the belt is spaced evenly between the sides of the rear pulley. Tighten the axel. Double check the belt tension with the wheel back on the ground.

The "rear dropout" points are the part that connects the rear axel to the frame of the Bike. You likely have to remove the back wheel during the process of installing it.

Good Afternoon

Remove the front wheel by using the buttons either side of the front wheel unit and sliding it out of the chassis. Fit the front of the shopping basket on and now attach the back of the basket around the rear wheel axel using the velcro tabs.

check that the axel is not bent and see if the wheel on the axel fits snguly twist it side to side it may have have woren the axel hole out

You will need to replace the old axel with a hollow quick release axel of the same outside diameter and the correct length to fit between the outside of your rear forks with the nuts and washers in place. In other words you will have to rebuild the hub of your rear wheel. It is arguable as to whether it is easier and cheaper to just buy a new wheel with the quick release axle already in it and just switch the cassette over. You will have to make a trip to your local bicycle repair shop for parts anyways so you might as well do a price comparison. Remember you will need bearings nuts washers and a tool to remove your cassette. Ask and they will probably switch the cassette over to the new wheel for you for a nominal fee. I used to charge $5.00 for this if the customer wanted to switch the tire themselves. It was an extra $5.oo to switch the tire.

This Rear Axel Has A BAD Rep For Failure and Mostly Wheel Bearingd Go First ,Then By the time they go Its too Late to Save the Whole Diff I Spent 2 Days LOOKING for a Replacement for a Customer. You May Get Lucky and JUST NEED WHEEL BEARINGS, FLUID LEVEL MUST be up To FILL HOLE PLUG.

Check your wheel offset. You may need to put spacers between wheel and rotor to regain offset, or, change to wheels with a different offset. You can check clearance by placing thick washers on studs and tightening the wheel back up (this a mock-up to check clearance...don't drive this way) If it eliminates the clearance problem you likely can get spacers from any speed shop. If you have 14" wheels, you can go to a 15" but I believe you have 15's on there, don't you?

It has to be replaced. If its front new break hose that runs from hard line to caliper. If rear from caliper to block on rear axel. If main line from front of car at perporationing valve back to block on rear axel.