Embroidery arm won't park or go in position on hoop to embroider
When I try to embroider, the arm won't go back into the proper position. It stops on the left side of the plastic hoop (100x100)instead of in the middle of the hoop. If I press the start button, the needle will hit the hoop & break. Also, it will not go into the park position. I have repeated turned it on and off, with & without the arm connected.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: embroidery arm won't park or go in position on hoop...
You may need to have the embroidery unit serviced. The slide rods in the embroidery unit will get dirty over time and must be cleaned and lubricated. If not, the mechanism can not slide freely and you will be unable to keep the unit calibrated while stitching a design. You could attempt to disassemble and clean it yourself, but if you bring it to a repair center in pieces or improperly assemble your repair is going to cost a lot more than it will if you go today.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This can happen, click back to tools option check whether hoops selection is correct. If this is not the problem, off your machine then put on again. If message remain pull out the embroidery carriage & push in again. Hope it can work. In jam situation, just exit from your embroidery option, fix the jam by moving the embroidery carriage, work on a different design and see if it work. Sometime a design may not work fully.
Make sure the embroidery unit is plugged in securely. If it is only a tiny bit out of its socket, the machine will behave erratically. Also ALWAYS "park" the embroidery arm before removing it by pressing the Needle Down button. Do this before you turn the power off when you are done embroidering. If the arm is not in the correct position when you plug it in (i.e. has NOT been parked) then it won't calibrate properly. I believe you can manually move the arm into the parked position. It's not something I would want to do myself but if you are really stuck it might be worth trying. You need to exert quite a bit of force. Also be sure to remove any hoops before you "park" and remove the embroidery unit.
Can you access the Menus properly when the embroidery unit is not on the machine? If you can, recalibrate the touch screen by going to the Set menu, scrolling through the "More" pages until you find "Calibrate Touch Screen Adjust". Use your stylus or the blunt end of a machine needle to touch exactly in the centre of the crosses, starting at No.1. It will turn green then do No.2 and exit the screen (OK) without touching anything else.
If you can make the machine work, try doing a different embroidery - there may be a problem with that particular one. If you cannot get it to work properly, it will need to be seen by a repair technician, sorry.
If the design isn't too big, try rotating it in the hoop and stitch it sideways. If it works in that position, you probably should have the embroidery unit cleaned. I recommend the embroidery unit be serviced every 5 years. It may need it more often depending on your environment.
Don't know for sure what is happening, but you should not put on a hoop until you are actually ready to embroider. The unit goes on while the machine is turned off; turn on the machine; it will make a noise; you should get a pop-up on your screen to Calibrate the unit. Touch this button, and the arm moves into position ready. Load your design and choose the correct hoop then put the hoop and project on the machine. Also be sure that your design will fit in the hoop selected.
It's okay - it's supposed to do that! The Needle Down button has a different function when you are in Embroidery mode i.e. you have the emb. unit attached. It moves the emb. arm forward for two reasons: so you can cut top-side jump stitches more easily between colour changes (you touch the button again and the emb. arm returns to under the needle so you can finish the design); and secondly so you can "park" the embroidery unit when you are finished. You can then turn the machine off, remove the emb. unit and replace it in the carry case. If you DON'T do this, the emb. arm is not in the right position to fit into the moulded carry case properly.
The Broken Thread message usually means that it has started the colour, but the thread has been pulled down underneath instead of making nice locked stitches. Hold onto the thread end until the machine has stopped and beeped for you to cut the thread. This usually solves that problem. Sometimes the thread gets pulled out of your hand so just back up the stitches a few and start over, holding the thread more tightly. Don't tug on the thread - just keep a firm grip.
Designer 1s often cut the bobbin thread too short so that it can't make those nice locked stitches when it starts. You need to take off the hoop, open up the bobbin cover and use your stylus, the tip of a pair of scissors, tweezers (whatever is to hand) to pull the bobbin thread out a little. Instead of cutting it on the bobbin thread cutter, just let it hang outside by 1/8" or so. That way you can be sure there is enough bobbin thread available for the stitch to lock. Don't use the scissors button on the machine after every colour change. Sure, it makes for a tidier back of the embroidery with less work for you afterwards, but if it means you are taking the hoop and bobbin cover off after every colour change then it is not worth it in time-saving. If your machine is doing this - cutting the bobbin thread too short - mention it to your tech. when you machine goes in for its next service. He may be able to tweak the bobbin cutter so it does not cut so close.
What do I need to get
started at free machine embroidery?
A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other
words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to
feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your
zigzag stitches too.
An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An
embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the
throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see
what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can
alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into
it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in
that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but
they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to
replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle
with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with
spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery
hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood,
has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring,
separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place
the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull
the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you
squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place
the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still
squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop
is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better
tension on the fabric.
Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while
you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some
are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're
done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery,
as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also
papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water,
leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your
authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent
plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your
authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very
nice. It's expensive though.
Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery
hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the
piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the
piece from the fabric.
Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary
polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the
fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may
want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when
you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery
Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so
you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of
that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought?
Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel
that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the
bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread
will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a
problem with this to date.
How do I prepare the machine
and fabric for free machine embroidery?
Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't
set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that
important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any
stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric
is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to
embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the
fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the
table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right
side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or
special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If
you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place
the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift
the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to
remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then
re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing
machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until
stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
How do I lock the thread at
the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to
Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.
Do you have a hoop already on when you first re-calibrate the embroidery arm? You need the embroidery arm ONLY when you first turn on. Don't put the hoop on until you are ready to start embroidering. If this is not the problem, try re-loading the machine operating system. If you did not save your floppy or USB file, go to Husqvarna website and download the latest one, and re-load it. (Be sure to select the correct file for your particular machine i.e. floppy or USB.) Pamsquilt
My machine did the same thing. I had several frustrated nights ans then it just started to work. Some suggestions that I had was that there may be dust where the units connect. Not sure what I did, but it worked.