Question about Coleman Air Tools & Compressors
Check your pressure switch. In most cases it is a small black box with 2 to 4 screws holding the cover on. Make sure the unit is un-pluged or disconnected from power when doing so. Once it is open make sure that the contact tips are not welded together and if not then you should replace the entire pressure switch
Posted on May 02, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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It sounds like the compressor is trying to start under load because there is a tightness in the pump itself or there is high pressure air in the line between the pump and tank There is a small valve that releases the pressure out of the main pipe that runs between the compressor and tank once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. You know this valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. Releasing this pressure means that the motor is able to restart easily because there is no load. If the valve is not releasing this air, the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the slow running, overheating and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to run up to normal peed. Motor burnout is possible if it keeps recurring.
This small release valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it or is incorporated inside the Pressure Control Switch. If the valve appears to be working then it means that the Non-return valve on the input to the tank is not sealing properly and letting air back into the main pipe causing the compressor to start under load. Check both valves for correct operation and replace as necessary.
If all the air side checks out OK the check for low oil level and / or binding in the air pump main drive shaft.
Dec 11, 2010 | Craftsman 33 gal Air Compressor 6 hp...
Starting binding under presser foot
*Follow the basic instructions to attach the binder to your machine and inserting the binding and when you get to STEP 5 follow these instructions instead.
5. Sewing. Don't sew the beginning of the binding.
Insert the edge of your quilt into the fold and drag the quilt through the fold to where you want to begin attaching the binding, usually away from a corner. Lower the presser foot and start sewing slowly.
This is how the quilt should be feeding into the binding
Trim the binding that did not get stitched at the beginning.
6. Making the Mitre. When you get to the first corner, sew the binding right to the edge of the fabric. Cut the threads. Gently pull the quilt out from under the presser foot and some binding out of the binder, approx 1 1/2′. Create a mitered corner on the front and back of the quilt, using 2 straight pins to hold them in place. Think about the pin placement as you will have to pull them out before you begin sewing. Gently insert the quilt back under the pressor foot and into the binder, while pulling up the slack of the binding at the tape guide end. Lower the presser foot and needle into the fabric. Note: Check the binding is folding properly as it is coming out of the binder, especially underneath.
7. Finishing. Continue sewing and attaching the binding and making your mitered corners. When you almost get to where you began, approx 2′ , stop sewing, cut threads and gently pull quilt and binding out from binder. Cut binding, leaving a 3′ length attached. Remove Quilt Binder from machine. Trim and fold under your raw edges. Insert your quilt back under the presser foot and stitch the remaining binding!
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