Compressor will not cut off, and it will be running and want to bind up

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Without hearing the noise I can't tell you for sure but take a spray can of WD40 and with the engine running spray some on the belts if noise goes way that's your problem, if not check the A/C (if you have A/C) the compressor may be binding up causing the belt to squeal due to friction from the tight compressor. To check the compressor remove the belt and turn the A/C pulley by hand (should turn freely) next turn on the key (do not start engine) turn on A/C then turn A/C pulley by hand again. It will be harder to turn but still relativity easy. If it is hard to turn it is beginning to bind.

If the model number is correct and you replaced the=>12555902 Start Relay with Overload along with the-> 65889-4 Run Capacitor
and still having trouble the compressor may be defective due to binding because of wear, age, factory defect or you are trying to restart too soon after the compressor last stopped. No promises of a fix but the=> URCO810_Supco_Start_Relay_3_n_1


may be useful in a worn binding hard start compressor but may last a good long while Sea Breeze

The compressor in your refig is bad. whats happening is when you let the compressor cool down it will run for a while then it starts binding internally until it gets to the point of humming and clicking. only repair is replacing the compressor. sorry for the bad news...

Is this a self propelled? Since it will run, blade spinning, the bar you are mentioning to start cutting is for the self propelled drive. The terrible squeaking is probably the belt slipping due to something causing the wheel to bind. Check for the ability to turn the drive wheel by hand. Then check under the cover for any binding.

I hope this helps you out.

It sounds like the compressor is trying to start under load because there is a tightness in the pump itself or there is high pressure air in the line between the pump and tank There is a small valve that releases the pressure out of the main pipe that runs between the compressor and tank once the tank is full and the motor automatically cuts off. You know this valve is working by the sound of a short spurt if air being released when the motor cuts off. Releasing this pressure means that the motor is able to restart easily because there is no load. If the valve is not releasing this air, the compressor is trying to start under full load which the motor is not capable of doing, hence the slow running, overheating and popping of breakers due to a current overload as the motor tries to run up to normal peed. Motor burnout is possible if it keeps recurring.

This small release valve is attached to the Pressure control switch that switches the motor On & Off and usually has a small pipe going to it or is incorporated inside the Pressure Control Switch. If the valve appears to be working then it means that the Non-return valve on the input to the tank is not sealing properly and letting air back into the main pipe causing the compressor to start under load. Check both valves for correct operation and replace as necessary.

If all the air side checks out OK the check for low oil level and / or binding in the air pump main drive shaft.

The test is a simple one, with engine off and cooled down test the pulleys by hand, turn them slowly in the direction of rotation and feel for a binding sound or feel, if you feel a noticable bind and noise your culprit is the pulley or the a/c compressor.
Test whatever else runs off this belt as well by doing the same test.

hi there, if the compressor built up a 20 psig and run at 1.5 hrs.then stop.check the pressure switch the differential pressure cut in and cut out limit.adjust the cut out to the corresponding cut out pressure you want but not exceed to the designed pressure tank..this will be done on adjusting cut out pressure screw mounted inside the pressure switch.follow the instruction on the manuals adjusting pressure switch.the run time correspond to the cut out limit of the pressure switch. rate my fix if your satisfied thank a lot.

Either the compressor is beginning to bind up internally and is dragging the engine rpm's down or the computer is not compensating for the additional load (generally done via the idle air control valve.) Some testing will be necessary to determine this as other factors such as weak spark or bad fuel mixture can also contribute to the problem. Testing is necessary because even items that don't seem related can affect this, such as map sensor, which changes engine timing related to load.

-If both compressor and fan motor starts and stop, thermostat is the defect.
- If only the compressor check for your outlet no sign of discoloration, check the voltage if normal, check the defective overload protector of the compressor it its external, or compressor itself is defective