Question about Troy Bilt Pony 6.5 Hp Rear Tine Tiller

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How do i change ball bearings on tiller shaft

How do i get old ball bearing off shaft

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  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    When running it will squeal due to ball bearing

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Hello mikeant2:

Usually Heat and a Press/Puller are Required to Remove the Bearing from the Shaft. Sometimes I have even had to Cut the Bearings Off with a Die Grinder.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 13, 2009

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Replace wheel bearing front awd 2010 ford edge


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Replace the roller bearing on mantisworm shaft


I posted this same procedure in a reply to this post:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2127031-tine_shaft_removal_mantis_2_cycle_tiller



Follow the procedure for removing the worm gear shaft by removing the retaining ring at the bottom of the housing and extracting the worm shaft and other associated parts, Adding heat to the bottom of the housing to expand the hole will help the removal of the #458 roller bearing - with the housing in a vise, tap on the top of the worm shaft through the top hole of the housing with a punch or rod smaller than 1/2" in diameter. Then remove all grease from the housing - to eliminate the remaining roller bearing pieces that may reside in that grease. After total teardown and cleaning place the worm gear housing in a vise apply heat with a propane torch to the outside of the worm gear housing in the vicinity of the beaing location. Applying heat to this area will make the housing expand and make it easier to remove the remnants of the old bearing. With the housing still hot, take a punch or piece of 1/4" steel rod and insert it from the top hole, where the drive shaft goes in, there is a large ridge in the cast housing that the bearing mates against and immediately past that the bearing body will protrude just a little more into the cavity, with the rod against the bearing body gently and rapidly tap on the rod. You can look into the other side through the housing cover opening to be sure you are on the bearing and not the cast metal ridge. I just replaced that bearing this morning, be careful putting the new one in as well, they can be damaged very easily if you don't apply even pressure.

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Cannot engage the gears for RT tiller


I have spent time researching this as mine just did this. It seems you will need to take apart the gearbox and find the issue there, most say some part has bearings inside it that have no grease, and no way for grease to get in there...then it causes something else to break and get stuck.

Trying to decide whether I should try to fix it or take to service tech or ditch it all together.

Jan 30, 2013 | Cub Cadet Rt 65es Tiller 2011 Model

1 Answer

Cannot shift into gear RT65


Hi I'm Peter. I realize this is an old post but I will answer it anyway for anyone that has the same question. I just finished rebuilding a Cub Cadet RT 65 Transmission. There are a couple of problems you may be facing. First the shifting shaft that goes down into the transmission is not sealed verywell so my understanding is that water from rain or washing the unit may run down into transmission. and may rust up some parts. You can try spraying penetrating oil and moving it back and forth and you may free it up. I am doubtful though but it's worth a try. The shaft has an arm with a little shaft on it that slides in the grove of a shifting yoke. The shift yoke is mounted on a shaft that has detent groves in it. The yoke has a stiff spring and ball in it that when you shift the transmission it slides up and down to the various groves of which each is either neutral or one of the drive or drive and tiller engagement positions. If your unit is like a few I've seen they have been packed with grease and the little ball and spring cannot get lubrication so they wind up freazing up makeing it near or impossible to move the yoke up and down which fits around the shaft of the primary shift gears that move up and down with the yoke. As they move up and down they will engage the transmission the the various modes of travel and operation. There are other problems also as several of the gears in the transmission have needle bearings so if your unit has only grease in it and not a type of gear oil the needle bearings have no way for the grease to get to them so they destroy themselves which may lead to a catistrphic failure which may include gear teeth being broken off and locking up the transmission. Needless to say the transmission case will have to be split and all new bearings installed plus replacing any other damaged gears, chains, , etc. You can order the bearings from multiple places Cub Cadet of course or you may do as I did and go to Mader bearing or what ever local bearing supply shop in your area and buy new ones. Remember take the old ones with you so they can match up the ones for your particular unit. I can tell you some of the parts/gears are used in most of the same size tillers of nearly all of the major brands. Yep Troybilt, Cub Cadet, Ryobi, Craftsman so there may be minor differences but I'm beginning to suspect as with a lot of appliances today that there is one company that builds them and sells them to the different Name Brands to put their logos on or either they just get their parts from the same place. LOL. There are a couple of videos on you tube that a fellow has taken his apart and filled it with grease. I haven't found it yet in my manuals but from all my years as a mechanic most transmissions have some type of gear oil in them and not grease hence the needle bearing getting destroyed.. I have read refeerences that say that the Cub Cadets at Tractor Supply come with oil in then then people have said they read to put grease in the transmissions when they get low on oil because a seal leakeed. What ever ! I say replace the seal and make the necessary changes if any need to be made so that you can run gear oil in them. The oil can reach the needle bearings and give them a longer life as the grease is unable to rech them. There are several sources I believe even Cub Cadet offers a free download of the Ownes Manual and a parts manual with a breakdown of the transmission including parts numbers.I replaced all the seals and bearings in mine for maybe $60 and a gear that is universal to all of the tillers for around $80. Prices can vary a lot so shop around. The same gear can be had from $ 79.99 - $ 129.00. They even all use the same parts number between the major brands. The drawing in the parts Manual is very confusing so to help everyone out I put a video on you tube Cub Cadet RT 65 Tiller where I have a cleaned transmission with all the gears in the case and I take the out, show you their positions, explain the operation of the transmission and then show how to assemble the gears in their proper place. I also explain and show the dentent shaft and shifting yoke operation. The link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVgOPCRpc5o&t=1s Please like and subscribe so I can put some more videos up to help more people. Comments and questions are always welcome. Hope this helps Peter Cub Cadet RT 65 Tiller

Jun 23, 2012 | Cub Cadet 1 Rotary Tiller Operator ...

1 Answer

Hahn Eclipse Tiller Worm gear Bearing.


there should be a number on the inner race just enter that number on google search

Mar 25, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

How do you replace the bearings on the shaft


Shaft bearing replacement on any motor requires that the rotor (the part that spins) assembly be removed from the stator (the non-moving body that contains windings) and the end bells (the motor ends that the bearings are supported within).

Once the rotor assembly is removed, shaft must be pressed out of the bearings. Shops that do this work employ an arbor press as shown below for this work.

3_27_2012_5_29_03_pm.jpg

This is done best by hanging the entire rotor assembly by the inner race of the bearing. The inner race is the inner ring of the bearing that is pressed on the rotor's shaft. The outer race is the outer ring of the bearing that fits in the end bells. The ball bearings are located between the inner and outer races. If you lack an arbor press to hang the rotor from, you might cut a U shaped slot only slightly wider than the shaft in the edge of a piece of flat steel stock. You could secure the flat steel between two uprights with the rotor hanging in the U slot. Repeated blows to the top of the shaft with a softer metal than shaft - or with a block of wood between the hammer and shaft - should force the shaft downward and eventually free it from the bearing.

By supporting the rotor by the inner race, no undue stress is placed on the ball bearings - and it could be reinstalled again if needed. If you are replacing the bearing, you do not need to be as fussy with supporting by the inner race. You must support by the inner race during removal if you need to reinstall the bearing as the bearing would be damaged if not.

Installing a new bearing or reinstalling the old bearing on the shaft will require the the bearing is supported by the inner race and the rotor be pressed or driven into the inner race. If the shaft is driven or forced into the inner race and support of the bearing is not at the inner race, the balls in the bearing will be damaged and will be noisy, run hot and fail prematurely.

If the bearings are to be pressed into end bells then they should be pressed or driven by the outer race, not the inner race. We're trying to drive or force the part of the bearing that is being held - rather than trying to transfer the pressure or blows through the steel balls that are between the inner and outer races. Use of an old socket, piece of steel pipe, etc. that has the same outside diameter as the outer race often works well to evenly transfer the blows directly to the outer race. Do not try to apply the blows by alternating the energy of the plows all around the race - keep the energy of the blows centered evenly. Use a block of wood to help absorb some of the energy to prevent damage to the bearing or causing pieces of steel from breaking off the pipe, hammer or socket. Always wear safety glasses and gloves!

Mar 13, 2012 | MotorGuide STANDARD MOTOR REPLACEMENT...

1 Answer

Cub Cadet RT65. Cannot shift into gear so the tiller will till. will go frrom nuetral to reverse and forward but not reverse till or forward till.


Hi I'm Peter. I realize this is an old post but I will answer it anyway for anyone that has the same question. I just finished rebuilding a Cub Cadet RT 65 Transmission. There are a couple of problems you may be facing. First the shifting shaft that goes down into the transmission is not sealed verywell so my understanding is that water from rain or washing the unit may run down into transmission. and may rust up some parts. You can try spraying penetrating oil and moving it back and forth and you may free it up. I am doubtful though but it's worth a try. The shaft has an arm with a little shaft on it that slides in the grove of a shifting yoke. The shift yoke is mounted on a shaft that has detent groves in it. The yoke has a stiff spring and ball in it that when you shift the transmission it slides up and down to the various groves of which each is either neutral or one of the drive or drive and tiller engagement positions. If your unit is like a few I've seen they have been packed with grease and the little ball and spring cannot get lubrication so they wind up freazing up makeing it near or impossible to move the yoke up and down which fits around the shaft of the primary shift gears that move up and down with the yoke. As they move up and down they will engage the transmission the the various modes of travel and operation. There are other problems also as several of the gears in the transmission have needle bearings so if your unit has only grease in it and not a type of gear oil the needle bearings have no way for the grease to get to them so they destroy themselves which may lead to a catistrphic failure which may include gear teeth being broken off and locking up the transmission. Needless to say the transmission case will have to be split and all new bearings installed plus replacing any other damaged gears, chains, , etc. You can order the bearings from multiple places Cub Cadet of course or you may do as I did and go to Mader bearing or what ever local bearing supply shop in your area and buy new ones. Remember take the old ones with you so they can match up the ones for your particular unit. I can tell you some of the parts/gears are used in most of the same size tillers of nearly all of the major brands. Yep Troybilt, Cub Cadet, Ryobi, Craftsman so there may be minor differences but I'm beginning to suspect as with a lot of appliances today that there is one company that builds them and sells them to the different Name Brands to put their logos on or either they just get their parts from the same place. LOL. There are a couple of videos on you tube that a fellow has taken his apart and filled it with grease. I haven't found it yet in my manuals but from all my years as a mechanic most transmissions have some type of gear oil in them and not grease hence the needle bearing getting destroyed.. I have read refeerences that say that the Cub Cadets at Tractor Supply come with oil in then then people have said they read to put grease in the transmissions when they get low on oil because a seal leakeed. What ever ! I say replace the seal and make the necessary changes if any need to be made so that you can run gear oil in them. The oil can reach the needle bearings and give them a longer life as the grease is unable to rech them. There are several sources I believe even Cub Cadet offers a free download of the Ownes Manual and a parts manual with a breakdown of the transmission including parts numbers.I replaced all the seals and bearings in mine for maybe $60 and a gear that is universal to all of the tillers for around $80. Prices can vary a lot so shop around. The same gear can be had from $ 79.99 - $ 129.00. They even all use the same parts number between the major brands. The drawing in the parts Manual is very confusing so to help everyone out I put a video on you tube Cub Cadet RT 65 Tiller where I have a cleaned transmission with all the gears in the case and I take the out, show you their positions, explain the operation of the transmission and then show how to assemble the gears in their proper place. I also explain and show the dentent shaft and shifting yoke operation. The link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVgOPCRpc5o&t=1s Please like and subscribe so I can put some more videos up to help more people. Comments and questions are always welcome. Hope this helps Peter Cub Cadet RT 65 Tiller

May 08, 2011 | Cub Cadet 1 Rotary Tiller Operator ...

1 Answer

I have a model 21a- 410-062 MTD tiller that i had to replace the shifting forks on. The trouble is I cannot figure out hoe to get the shifting clutch collar back on the shaft or i don't know how it goes...


there's a pretty good schematic here:

http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/MTD/410-420.pdf

and a reference diagram here:

http://int.custhelp.com/ci/fattach/get/15094/1173195151/session/L2F2LzEvc2lkLzJPNmdRanNr

I've had mine apart twice, first time to replace the shifter fork, 2nd time to find why it keeps popping out of gear.

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