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No Defrost Freezer is not defrosting. How can you test the timer or heater to determine the cause?

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Re: No Defrost

Fridge is a whirlpool bottom freezer, model # GB22DKXJW00

Posted on Sep 20, 2007

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Re: No Defrost

Take back panel off freezer and ohm out the heater and defrost themostate.... Need type and model # for more help

Posted on Sep 19, 2007

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SOURCE: No Defrost

call service center for the repair of your refrigerator, they will bring it to their repair shop,because they need to dismantalled the unit to replaced the heater`s thermestor. the thermestor was been busted that cause the heater not work out,then in conteneous operation of compressor will cause of ice build up.

Posted on Nov 20, 2007

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1 Answer

Freezer works but fridge does not

Lets see if the defrost timer being turned clockwise slowly will force defrost and cause things to get colder. On page 5 of the (click HERE=>ET4WSKXKQ02 Parts Manual ) you will see location 4? That is the 2188371 Defrost Timer

inside the fresh food com[partment at the top and behind the control panel will be the 2188371 Defrost Timer If forcing defrost solves the cooling problem then just replace the 2188371 Defrost Timer and if not we will need to check the 2176942 Defrost Heater Assembly and the 2192096 Defrost Thermostat Don't buy ba defrost thermostat until we discuss a different way of getting one to work should you need one (last resort because of cost) My focus is defrost timer and defrost heater at this point you will not need all the wires on the defrost thermostat should you need one just splice a simple defrost thermostat into the wiring harness. Below is a short movie on testing the defrost heater or click HERE Talk with me and we will get this refrigerator working, Sea Breeze
Refrigerator Defrost Heater Test
Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat Test

Apr 01, 2013 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer


Lets begin by placing defrost timer into forced defrost. The defrost timer is inside the fresh food compartment and behind the control panel above the top shelf. Click Here=> 215846602 Defrost Timer

sea_breeze_274.jpg Try turning the timer clockwise slowly until you hear compressor and fans stop. Allow to remain here for 30 minutes. The timer if good should come out of defrost itself but if not it is a clear indication that the timer be replaced. You also should hear a crackling or sizzle coming from the freezer with door open. Also water should drain down to a condenstate tray below refrigerator into a tray that compressor fan warms to return back into air inside your home. If not timer causing the ice blocking airflow then we have the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to examine. They are located behind the rear panel inside freezer The=> 5317842502 Defrost Heater

And also the Defrost Thermostat=> 216872200 Defrost Thermostat

sea_breeze_276.jpg Testing the defrost heater can be found here=> 5317842502 defrost Heater Testing
I have laid these parts out as the timer being the most likely reason for warm temps in fresh food and freezer. If you have any questions I will be here to answer them for you, If helpful please rate, Thank You, Sea Breeze

Oct 30, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The refrigerator side (not the freezer) is not getting cold and there is some water on the floor

I would begin by testing the defrost timer listed as location 15 here=> MTB2156GES Controls
Defrost timers place defrost on on refrigerator about 3 times daliy and yours may not be working properly and causing ice and snow build up on rear wall of freezer.
Here is what the timer looks like=> 68233-3 Defrost Timer


I would like you to see if you can find a way to test by placing a flathead screwdriver inside the back or even through a tiny round hole found inside the Fresh Food compartments top shelf and behind controls. Sometimes or most they place a plastic plug their that hides the hole. Turn slowly clockwise until compressor stops and within a minute your defrost should begin. If this works then replace timer. If not we need to move to the defrost heater and defrost thermostat found behind the rear panel of freezer. Here is what you will see behind that rear panel if not defrosting=> Non-Defrost Air Circulation Problems
Now you will need to check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat once you manually defrost with a hair drier.Please unplug power to refrigerator before doing anything like this. Here is a=> 61002046 Defrost Heater


Here is the defrost thermostat=> 61005254 Defrost Thermostat


I will be here if you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze

Sep 17, 2011 | Maytag MTB2156GES Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer ice up. how to defrost it?

The icing of the freezer is caused by the failure of either the defrost heater or the defrost thermostat, and sometimes, both. Before replacing either or both, it is good practice to determine which one has failed. WhileThe defrost heater can easily be tested with an ohmmeter to determine its state, such is not the case for the defrost thermostat. Testing the defrost heater alone can give a clue of which one is bad. In either case, replacing both would solve the icing problem.

Dec 23, 2010 | GE GSS25QSTSS Stainless Steel

1 Answer

Frigidaire PLHS269ZDB9 is not getting cold enough to freeze or make ice. I took off the panel , there is an ice block on the thermostat to the evaporator. trying to defrost.

When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor

Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.

Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.

*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.

Defrost heater:

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.


Some newer refrigerators have been using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive defrost board.

Nov 28, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

2 Answers

KitchenAid KSRS25QXAL10 Side-by-Side (1992) won't defrost

HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.


To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically. Test the timer for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.

Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it should be replaced.

Nov 19, 2009 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

My freezer is frosting up?

There are two possible causes or types of frosting. One is where the surface of the items in the freezer have frost on them. It may be in one spot or evenly distributed. This is caused by excess room air getting into the freezer because of leaky door gasket which should seal snugly on a dollar bill inserted between the gasket. Frequent or prolonged door opening will also allow room air in. The higher moisture content in the air freezes on the surfaces of the food etc.

The other cause and type of frosting is automatic defrost failure.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Oct 10, 2009 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

2 Answers

Ice forming on rear of freezer wall

The best way to determine what has caused a non defrosting GE electronic control model is to first access the control board. Jump terminals line power to defrost, (J4 and J9). An amp probe should be placed on this jumper wire to determine current draw of the defrost circuit. A three amp draw is what is normal for this circuit. This will eliminate checking behind the evaporator cover to determine a defective heater or over temp device (defrost terminator). Note: This test is only to check the defrost circuit. It does not initiate a defrost cycle. If the unit is in any other cycle than defrost, that cycle will continue to operate as well.

May 07, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Refridgerator not cool enough.

sounds like the probable cause is defrost heater. get someone to test the element.

May 27, 2007 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

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