Question about Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your self-propel is probably belt driven. Belts can make an awfully lot of noise when unhappy. Possible it has rolled over and is running on the wrong side of the belt or is worn and just needs replaced. Hope this helps.,
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
Problem is in the rear pinion gears on rear axle and the design of the axle itself. I have a 2005 model 20041 had the same problem. I found a Toro dealer that had the fix.The problem is creadted by the fact that there is too much "play" in the rear axle. You have to limit that play by installing shims, or washers First, but the 2 new rear pinion gears for the rear axle. While you're at it, you may as well buy 2 new rear wheels because the "grinding" has worn the sprockets on the reas r wheels.Next, get 2 "fender washers", 1/2" ID and about 1" OD. I found it easier to turn the mower over and set it on saw horses to work on it.( drain the gas and oil first). Remove both rear wheels, pinion gears and all the washers etc. (caution - keep all parts from one side together - do not pile all parts together - keep them seperated by wheel - the reason is I believe there is one more washer/shim on the right side than on the left). Now to put everything back together, find a spot on the axle where the washer will fit in between the standard stuff.Install new pinion gears and replace the rest of the washers/shims just as they came off. INstall new wheels and you'll be good as new!
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
There are a couple of things you can check;
First, check to make sure the bendix is engaging. It is the gear that meshes with the fly wheel.
If it is, then try and see how fast the motor is spinning. Don't look at the blade though. It could be a faulty starter motor.
Make sure to also check the battery voltage with a volt meter. It should read at 12.0 or higher.
Posted on Mar 03, 2010
SOURCE: mower will not start
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. Sounds like your in need of a serious carb cleaning session:
You engine parts manual is here: http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/docmanualdetails.aspx?showpdf=ms2143_B_LO.pdf
Now lets go through carb cleaning:
Before you start.... if you have a digital camera take "close up" PICTURES of the linkages and springs attaching to the carb. If this is your first time you will be so glad you did. You can always delete them later if you don't need them. :)
Here is what you need to do:
1. Fuel selector off
2. Remove float bowl mounting screws and nut
3. Localte the Air fuel Jet on the side of the carb and count the number of turns it takes to close the Jet adjustment until it is just snug.
4. Remove the Jet / Orifice in side of Carb (spring on screw stem)
5. Using a catch fuel container turn on the fuel selector. Fuel should flow at a good rate. GENTLY lift the float assy level and make sure fuel flow shuts off. When you drop the float again fuel should flow.
If you do not have fuel flow at this point the needle and seat will need to be inspected. Fuel selector OFF.
(The following procedure is to be done only if there is no fuel flow with fuel selector on.)
a. Remove the float pivot pin.
b. Drop the Float down (The needle will come off with the float. NOTE the position)
c. Inspect the tapered rubber of the needle valve It should be pointed. If it is not pointed then the rubber tip is stuck inside the seat.
d. Clean the seat hole ONLY if obstructed. (Easily damaged)
e. FUEL Selector on then off fuel should rapidly flow through the needle seat.
f. Renistall Float and needle making sure to get the pivot / hinge pin installed correctly
g. Fuel selector ON. Raise and lower float checking for free movement with fuel flow when lowered and stopped when the float is raised level.
6. If there still is no fuel flow at this point remove the fuel hose from the carb and check fuel flow. If no flow check that gas tank exit hole, fuel filter (if installed) and the selector valve assy for obstructions.
FUEL FLOW IS GOOD
NOTE: If you have carb cleaner spray it into the side needle jet hole.
7. Install air fuel mixture needle jet in the side of the carb. Turn until closed and then back of the same number of turns it took to initially close it snug before removal.
8. BEFORE you install the float bowl inspect the bowl nut. There are holes in the side of the nut where it screws in to the bottom of the carb that must be clear. (could be no holes in yours)
9. Install Float bowl mounting screws and nut. Check for leaks.
10. Test engine.
That should do it.
NOTE: This engine was made with 2 different carbs. One had a choke the other had a primer bulb. If the primer bulb has a hole in it the engine will start then die after a few seconds.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
It's not that hard. I've never done it on my Toro GTS 5.0, but I have done it on a Briggs and it's pretty much the same. Start by removing the 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the engine shroud. DON'T remove the 4 top bolts on the recoil housing. You might have to remove the fuel tank first. Drain it, then loosen the 2 8mm screws and lift it straight up. No need to disconnect the fuel line, just set the tank aside. After removing the 10mm bolts, the shroud should lift right off. Flip it over and you will see the recoil pulley. Remove any leftover cord from the pulley. Now you need to wind the pulley against the spring in the direction it goes when you pull the cord. It might wind 2 or 3 revolutions but don't overdo it. Now you will need some sort of clamp to hold the pulley in place as you line up the slot in the pulley with the opening where the handle goes. Next, feed the new cord through the opening and into the pulley and tie a knot to keep it from slipping out. Carefully release the clamp and let the pulley slowly wind the new cord onto itself. Finally, attach the handle on the other end of the cord and test it. If you can pull the handle and the cord comes out and it retracts normally, re-install the shroud and tank.
Posted on Oct 03, 2010
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