How do I do a resistance test on a Hobart A200 motor? I found one on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280153245756&category=25373QQ_trksidZm263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DIA%252BUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D19%26ps%3D50
I need to have it tested before purchase.
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Re: Resistance testing Hobart A200 motor
The Hobart A200 motor is a 3 speed motor. The colour of wires may vary from year of manufacture of the model but this is a good reference on how to ohm the motor. Your Hobart should have a wiring diagram with it that you can use as well.
Burnt wire ( especially at the motor ) can stop it from running. Also check the start capacitor as it can prevent the motor from running. You can check the motor by looking at this diagram---
A) Check for continuity on the start windings between black and *yellow* wires. A resistance of 4 - 7 ohms is normal. B) Check for continuity on the high speed windings between blue and white wires. A resistance of 3/4 - 2 ohms is normal. C) Check for continuity on low speed windings between white and white/violet wires. A resistance of 1&1/2 - 3 ohms is normal. D) Check for continuity on the extra low speed windings between white and white/orange wires. A resistance of 1&1/2 - 3 ohms is normal. E) Check for continuity the motor safety protector between white and white/black wires. You should see full continuity with 0 ohms. F) If all these check points are OK...then you can test the motor centrifugal switch by first removing the pump and disconnecting the motor wire harness from the switch, and the switch from the motor. Remove the internal motor wires ( write down which color and what terminal they came from ) and check the switch contacts as said here.... By pushing up on the switch actuator, you should have continuity between the red and black terminals, as well as the orange and blue terminals. By releasing the actuator, you should have continuity between the orange and the white/violet terminals. No continuity should be seen between the red and black terminals, or the orange and blue terminals.
Also see this link for the manual of Hobart A200---
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If the gearing is all free to move and you replaced the motor capacitor that only leaves the motor. If you can remove the motor and test it "out of the gearing" that would confirm it. You have wired the capacitor correctly and used the correct one? Just asking! Are you sure the gearing isn't jammed up?
usually 2 wires that AC current goes through. check with volt meter set to ohms test for resistance . if you know the value .of resistance ? but if the machine has power but does not run . you know there is a thermal fuse hidden .once blown it does not reset..so you can throw it away. please don't..just replace the fuse or get a resettable one Radio shack or local electronic store . it is a size of a ADVIL pill with 2 wires inline of power coming in to switch ... >^.^<
Ed, if you continue to do it yourself, the end result will be tossing good money out. Have a professional check the system and save the unit from permanent damage. Chipping parts of a gear off means a serious resistance force or action has occurred. One force is slowing down as the other is speeding up. Gear alignment can be moved off center, or a sudden application (sudden stop or start) can damage the least resistant parts. For example, when a hook turns within the mixing chamber and the resistance of the content is too great on the turning shaft and gears, which ever part is weakest will break. Complicated I guess.
There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:
Motor start capacitor Start switch (electronic or mechanical) Burned wiring Motor start winding
The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.
The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.
Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.
Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.
Hi Don. If your mixer is hurling honey, you must be very popular in the ant world...Sorry!
The Hobart electric motor on your mixer was designed and engineered to operate on 115-120 volt current and is the most dependable, and capable commercial mixer out there Is it possible for you to use a commercial Imerssion Blender for the first part of your mixing operation. Once your honey thickens a bit perhaps the a200 wouldn't hurl honey. Another consideration would be to either try a different beater or modify the one you have by removing surface area from the beater. If you remove metal, be sure to do it in a balanced fashion to avoid unwanted vibration in the beater. If you're not up to removing metal, take it to a machine shop and they'll do it for you. It probably won't take long, or cost much, and they have the expertise and the equipment to do it properly. If you found this solution helpful, please rate it. Good luck! ricardok45.
Basically, you need to check both start and run windings for continuity.
If you have a mechanical start switch, (likely), you can simply ohm out at the power cord end, hot to neutral, power switch on, and check for continuity. Then manually open the contacts on the start switch and look for a small increase in your ohms. I don't know the exact numbers, but I would expect under 10 ohms.