Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if your sure it will agitate?[because the pump is on the other side of the motor and will drain,but if coupler broken ,wont agitate or spin although it makes noise like its working.so if will truely agitate drive coupler fine and its going to be the clutch or that area unless somthing[clothing] is between the two tubs creating anough resistance to stop the tub from taking off.clutch pads will just slip on drive plate.hope that helps>God bless ,tom
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
I have seen this problem numerous times on service calls. It sounds like you have a siphoning problem. The key symptom is the wash tub that continously attempts to fill, but cannot achieve the proper water level. This is often caused by not having an air gap on your drain line, improper placement of the drain hose, or a standpipe that is too small in diameter. The following link explains:
If you place the drain hose in the standpipe too far, or seal the top of the standpipe, this can cause a vacuum which will cause the symptoms you describe. A tell-tale sign will be a sucking noise as you pull the drain hose from the standpipe. Read through the link I provided. If this does not correct your problem please post back and let me know before you rate this solution. This way I can try to assist you further. I hope this corrects your problem.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
I recently had this problem. It was found that the main drive belt broke and the washer would fill but not spin, agitate or drain. I replaced the belt and everything worked again. A defective or disconnected cover switch would also cause the same problem.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
Check your lid switch. The symptoms of your washer stopping at the rinse cycle is a commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare. If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number if different from the one listed. I hope this information is helpful to you.
NOTE: "110" is not the model number. This is the prefix on the model number that identifies the manufacturer of your washer. 110 indicates the washer was manufactured by Whirlpool.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these: Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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