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Out door High speed dome cam

My problem is duw moistore it is getting water in to the dome what shall i do to solve the problem even though their is a heater and cooling fan in side

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Re: out door High speed dome cam

You have a "air leak" somewhere in the assembly most likely where the dome attaches to the housing. Even where the cables come out of the assembly. Very carefully look at all the seals and make sure they are "seated" properly. One may be slightly damaged. Be aware in some environments you can not get rid all the moisture inside the dome especially in high humidity areas. I don't know where it is you live or where this is mounted so I can't address that. Check and make sure the "heater" is coming on. The fan will just blow air around. You might try placing a small silica moisture bags anywhere inside where it might fit. Those you can reuse by drying in a very low heat oven for a few minutes also. It'll tell you on the package. Do that at least until the moisture goes away. When you open the camera you need to be in a "dry" as possible room or area.

Posted on Sep 18, 2007

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Re: out door High speed dome cam

Silica gel bags if you can find then. or a cloth bag of rice or salt these absorb moisture

Posted on Sep 18, 2007

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I bought a 800 to 1200 lens it seems to have a hazy look when I take pictures I have tryed different distances and I use a tri-pod and wired remote any tips

There are several possible reasons for this.
You may be seeing haze. With such a long lens, you're often taking pictures of things very far away. In such cases you're going to get haze (smog, smoke, fog, and other stuff in the air). A UV filter can reduce the effect somewhat. To see if this is the cause, try taking some pictures of something closer (like the opposite end of your living room) and compare.
If the sun or other bright light source is shining onto the front of the lens, that will reduce contrast and produce a hazy look. Use your hand or a piece of black cardboard or something similar to shade the lens (being careful not to get the object into the picture). Take pictures away from the sun and toward it (not directly toward it, just in its general direction) and compare.
The lens may be dirty. Clean the front and back with lens tissue or a microfiber cloth. Don't take the lens apart to clean its innards unless you have a lens collimator and other gear needed to put it back together properly.
Even with a tripod and remote, you may be getting some camera shake. If your camera has a mirror lockup or exposure delay mode, use it to damp out the mirror slap. If your camera doesn't offer either of these, try using the self-timer.
Also, make sure your tripod is sturdy enough. It's a heavy lens, and even if your tripod holds it, it may not be holding it very steady. Try putting your camera on a tabletop and shoot something at the other end of the room and compare the results.

Mar 13, 2012 | Camera Lenses

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I bought this lense and need instant help. I am shooting pics at a high school football game and it gets dark early. What settings do I switch my camera to in order to get sufficient light and capture all...

Shooting sports and the evening can be a compromise between needed s fast shutter to stop action or a longer shutter to allow enough light for a good exposure. Fortunately, you've got a "fast" lens. My suggestions are:

Shoot in "A" mode (aperture priority) and change the aperture of the lens to the lowest number available to make the aperture open to maximum, and increase the ISO to 400 or 800. You may even get satisfactory results at ISO1600, but you should check the results on a computer screen before blindly going out shooting at the level.

By increasing the aperture, two things happen; exposure times are reduced to minimum so that motion is stopped (or blur minimized) and the the depth of field becomes very narrow or "shallow". Depth of field or "DOF" describes the distance in front and beyond the point of focus that will also be in focus. Large apertures (low "f" number s like 1.4 to 2.8 ) = narrow DOF and small apertures (high "f" numbers like 16 to 22 and beyond) = wide DOF. An example would be if you took a picture of someone's face from a2 feet away at f 1.4 and focused on the tip of the nose - the eyes would begin to get soft or out of focus - the ears would be even more noticeable - and that background would very blurred. The same picture at f 22 nearly everything would be in focus - except for maybe the background - depending how far behind it is from the subject's head. Check the example below:

Look at the backgrounds of the pictures above. The left is largely in focus at f 8 while the right is blurry at f 2.5. Had left been shot at f 22 or more, more of the background would be in focus.

Increasing the ISO to 400 or 800 increases the camera's sensitivity to light like film. The higher the ISO, the less time it takes to get a properly exposed picture. High ISO are helpful in low light situations or other times you need to have a faster shutter speed (for sports or don't have a tripod for pictures that need long exposures). Assume you want to take a picture of something that the camera tells you won't be exposed correctly unless you shoot at say for example f 2.8 and shutter is 1/30 second. If the camera ISO was set to 100, you could change it to 200. This doubles the sensitivity to light - meaning you need 1/2 the light; you can change the f number from f 2.8 to f 4, OR, leave it at 2.8 and increase the shutter speed to the next faster value 1/60 sec. If you change the ISO to 400, it is now 4x's sensitive than 100 (or 2x's than 200). At ISO 400, you could go two f stops smaller to f 5.6 or stay at 2.8 and increase shutter from 1/30 to 1/125. For ISO 800, you could go three f stops smaller to f 8 or stay at 2.8 and increase shutter from 1/30 to 1/250. You can mix and match, too. Go one up on the speed and two smaller on the aperture. The drawback to higher ISOs is that the pictures become grainier with each increase. Eventually, the pictures don't look good when you get into ISO numbers above 800 (or less on some DSLR cameras - and even less on point and shoot types). You have to experiment to find where your preferences are. See below for Low and High ISO comparison shots:

The left picture above has nice, smooth transitions between shades of colors - the right picture has a grainy appearance called "noise". Some is acceptable but others are not - it depends what YOU can live with. Sometimes it's better to have a grainy shot than nothing at all.

Lastly, you can shoot "S" for shutter mode, to control motion instead of "A" which controls volume of light instead. The same principles apply.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Sep 08, 2011 | Tamron SP AF 70200mm f28 Di LD IF Makro...

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Want an adaptor for a Nikon D80 to fit canon lenses

Not realistically possible, due to the incompatible lens to focal plane distances. If you found one it would either not allow infinity focussing or would need to incorporate corrective optics which add cost and ruin image quality.

All such adapters mean that the AF won't work, and focussing and image composition must be done with the aperture fully open before manually closing the aperture down to the desired value for metering and shooting. With Nikon G lenses the aperture is fully electronic, so the lens would only be operable at its smallest aperture.

You can get an adapter to allow Nikon to Canon EOS though, but as both cameras have plenty of excellent quality new and used lenses and resale values are high it's a pointless exercise.

Jul 26, 2011 | Camera Lenses

1 Answer

I did not get any instructions with my Opteka. Have tried to take photos with it. But they came out all blank. I used a tripod. Would like to know where I can down load instructions. Certainly not as good...

You did not provide enough information to determine what your problem is. For example, were the pictures all light or all dark. Knowing this lens, I will assume that they were all dark. So...

1) This is a very, very slow manual-focus lens. It will not auto focus. It must be manually focused very precisely because it has virtually no depth of field.
2) Depending on your camera, your internal light meter may not work. On my camera (Nikon D-90), it does. If it does not on yours and I suspect that may be your problem, you're going to have to shoot everything manually, i.e. setting the shutter speed and lens opening yourself. You can use your internal light meter to help you get started by taking your light reading before you install the lens...preferably using the aperture only setting where you set the aperture at f8 which I think is the speed of the Opteka and let the camera set the shutter speed. Make a note of the shutter speed then attach the Opteka to the camera and mount the lens on a tripod with the camera attached.
Then set your camera mode to manual and set the aperture to match the lens (f8, I think). Set the shutter speed at the speed you noted earlier. Shoot a picture using a remote shutter release or the self timer. This lens is so slow that unless you're in exceptionally bright conditions you will get fuzzy pictures due to camera movement at full zoom of 1200m and above if you're using the 2X doubler. I would start shooting at minimum zoom of 650 without the 2X doubler. Shoot a picture. and check the result.

You should have an image but it may be too light or too dark.

If its too light you'll need to increase the shutter speed or stop down the aperture to, say, f11...or both. Make the adjustment and shoot another picture. Remember that if you increase the aperture, you increase your depth of field, making focus less critical. If you increase the shutter speed you make camera or subject movement less critical.

If it's too dark, you can only increase the shutter speed because you can't open the lens any wider than f8. Make the adjustment and shoot the picture.

Keep doing this until the pictures are the way you want them.

This is a decent lens for the price and worth the little money they cost if you can't afford $10,000 plus for a high quality telephoto lens of this size. I would forget about the 2X doubler because as others have said, it further reduces the speed of an already very slow lens with such a high rate of magnification that a knat landing on the lens could cause the picture to blur from movement.

Jun 26, 2011 | Opteka 650-2600mm High Definition...

1 Answer

Communication error between lens and camera.

Having gone over a month with no response, I assume cleaning the contacts solved the problem.

Jul 15, 2010 | Quantaray AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 High Speed...

2 Answers

Image in viewfinder slightly unfocused, photo clear.

Either your viewfinder needs to be cleaned or your camera needs to be cleaned. Most of the time it is the mirror in the camera that is causing this issue and cleaning it will make everything better.

May 30, 2010 | Quantaray AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 High Speed...

1 Answer

Aperture sticky

I'm not sure if you mean the lens barrier on the out side of the camera, the shutter that takes the picture or the high speed shutter.
If the outside barrier is sticky, it may have water soluble stuff on it like jam or syrup.
I clean this area very carefully with a Q-tip moistened with ONE drop of lens cleaner. Carefully clean by pushing the barrier back into the lens sideways, gently, and cleaning under the edge of the lens cover slightly. This is easier to do if you remove the batteries from the camera with the lens out.
Caution - you CAN jam the lens barriers. You can pop out the barriers. I suggest getting a shop to look at it.

Apr 02, 2010 | Camera Lenses

1 Answer

My digital cam (u700 model) lost its display after i connect to my computer. please help me to solve this problem.


my digital cam (u700 model) lost its display after i connect to my computer. please help me to solve this problem.


Mar 21, 2010 | Olympus Camera Lenses

1 Answer

How can I photograph a total solar eclipse using the JVC GR-DVL520U (still shot and/or video? Will I need any attachments? My main concerns are manually varying the exposure and shutter speeds. 2 or 3...

Hmmm... Even if it's fully developed, I wouldn't recommend you do this. You can get a number 14 welders glass from any welding supply company. Such filters usually have a thin layer of aluminum, chromium or silver deposited on their surfaces that attenuates ultraviolet, visible, and infrared energy. And even though the developed film has silver within it, it is not designed, optically, for photographic work. The welder's glass is reasonably priced and you ensure your eyes won't get damaged AND has good optical quality. After the fact is too late to change any damage done by inferior viewing devices.

If you're using a video camera with an LCD viewing screen, you don't need any protection. Exposure will be more than likely overexposed though and you may want to consider a 3-5 stop Neutral Density filter or a Number 14 welder's glass in front of the lens to cut down on the intensity of the light.

Jul 14, 2009 | Camera Lenses

1 Answer


Quantaray is a private label lens sold thru Ritz Cameras. Contact Ritz for service on this lens.

Oct 28, 2008 | Quantaray AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 High Speed...

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