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BUSH PRO300/AR Hi I have been given the above but without a remote control or instruction manual and in the back of the Amplifier it has Audio Imputs (front x 2)(left and right) (Surround x 2)(left and right) (Centre Subwoofer x 2) (left and right) so 6 connectors but I dont know how to connect them to the tv.

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the inputs are not for a tv.
they are for a 5.1 dvd player or similar device, the dvd player will have the same corresponding outputs, join them up and hey presto, sound.
hope this helps

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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The "audio jacks" on the rear of your Samsung TV are intended to connect TV audio to an amplifier. Your CV XD3s should be connected to the amplifier output.

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Hi gotta problem wid my bush home theatre..the subwoofer aint workin and even wont show the volume tried switchin on n off but still aint workin n i've also tried 2 swap de sockets no changes.It was...

It is probably an issue with the sub amplifier, but could be a blown speaker if it has been driven too hard. If you bought it new within the last year then you should be able to get it repaired under guarantee at the shop you bought it from.

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Good afternoon, I recently bought a SA VE325 speaker set it contained a subwoofer, 4 little boxes and a mid-large box which you haeb have tpo piuyt above uyour tv. Now the problem is we have no cCENTER to...

Hello there looking at the manual i would assume that the mid-large box is actually your centre speaker.

Did you mean that there are no connections left on the back of your amplifier? For a centre speaker this system uses all passive speakers apart from the subwoofer which has a built in amplifier for just the subwoofer, your hifi or home cinema amplifier would need to have at least 5 separate channels to operate the centre speaker as well as the front and rear speakers.

Ideally you would need a 5.1 channel or 5 channel amplifier with subwoofer pre output, any would do but to make things simple one with a digital optical or coaxial input would be best as this can easily carry multi-channel audio with just one connector.

The other alternative if your amplifier does not have a centre speaker output are:

· to get another basic mono stereo amplifier to power the centre speaker on its own however if your main amplifier does not have a pre out connector for a centre speaker you will have to change the volume independently on both amplifiers

· don

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Since you don't name the receiver we have no idea of its audio power or compatibility with 'standard' 8-ohm speakers.

Register and download the manual for free at

Any normal standardized NOT-all-in-one-hi-fi-in-a-box amplifier will work with these speakers.

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I need a code to program a remote so I can control a DR 1000 5.1 surround audio power amplifier.

most universal remotes have the ability to manually run through all codes by pressing channel + until the amp turns off. once it turns off, press the set or setup key to store the last code that was transmitted.

Mar 08, 2011 | Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

Unable to receive optimum output. The bass is totally flat !

Hi, ok the Bose Acoustimass III system consists of two small cube speakers and one subwoofer unit called the Acoustimass bass module. If the subwoofer stops working, three points can be the cause of the failure. The Bose Acoustimass III is a passive system, meaning the speakers do not power themselves, but instead are connected to a receiver or amplifier. Thus, the amplifier, the speaker between the amplifier and the subwoofer, or the subwoofer itself could be the issue.

Things You'll Need:

* Amplifier
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Disconnect the speaker cable from the back of the Bose Accoustimass bass module and connect it to a subwoofer that is known to be working. If the subwoofer works, the bass module needs to be replaced.

Disconnect the speaker cable from the back of the receiver or amplifier you are using and from the back of the subwoofer in Step 1.

Connect a speaker cable that is known to be working between the back of the receiver or amplifier and the back of the Accoustimass module. If the module starts working, then the cable was the issue.

Disconnect the speaker cable from Step 3 from the back of the amplifier or receiver, then connect the cable to the subwoofer port on the back of an amplifier or receiver that is known to be working. If the subwoofer works, the receiver was the issue. If the subwoofer still does not work, verify that the speaker cable is in the subwoofer port of the receiver/amplifier and that the cable is connected securely to the subwoofer.

If you think you did the connection properly,Fine... If not you can use the manual from the below link and know how to connect it properly..

Have a nice day..

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Can i hook a sony sa-wm20 subwoofer to a Sony DV435.53X

Yes.....simply connect the High Level Imputs to the output of the amplifier of your system.

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On the back of the amp, there should be a jack with the name "SUBWOOFER PRE OUT". It is a standard RCA jack, but it only puts out a line output, meaning only self-powered subwoofers will work with it. Usually, if the subwoofer does not have an amp, it will have 2 imputs and 2 outputs. You plug the two left and right inputs into the front speaker jack on the amp, and then plug the front speakers into the left and right amp on the subwoofer.

Jun 17, 2009 | Speakers & Subwoofers

2 Answers

Subwoofer probelm

I suspect you have a bad cable, a poor ground or a bad
power supply inside the speaker amplifier. The amplifier
(inside the sub-woofer) could also be defective.
1) Bad cable or connector:
If the (braided shield/outer tube) of the coaxial input cable is
not grounded, the cable will pickup line frequency "hum"
from surrounding power lines, house wires, lights and

This hum is then amplified by the speaker's amplifier
causing the constant bass sound you speak of.

Because the hum frequency fundamental is 60 Hertz in
North America, 50 Hertz in Europe, you hear it coming
mostly out of the sub-woofer, because the midrange and
high speaker circuits filter it out.

Check the input connectors, cable at both ends, wiggle
the jacks at a low volume setting to see if it changes.

Make sure that you are indeed using a properly shielded
coaxial cable.

A coaxial cable consists of a thin inner conductor, surrounded
by a flexible tube made up of a braided metal shield, which
must be grounded. This prevents hum from being picked up
by the sensitive amplifier inputs.

2) If the power supply within the sub-woofer's internal amplifier
is defective, the the power supply hum will also get coupled
into the amplifier and speaker with same results as above.

Power supply hum is typically twice the line frequency,
i.e. 120 Hertz, but not always, depending on what
component failed: Rectifier diode, filter capacitor, or
the voltage regulator.

3) Ground loops:
When you run very long cables between the source and
destination of an audio signal, multiple ground paths (must)
exist between the two points in space, creating complete
loop circuits.

Power line hum from the environment can (will) induce
heavy AC currents around these loops, creating a voltage
gradient across these cables, and in-between the end

Once again, this AC hum is coupled into the amplifier inputs.

Ground loops become a problem with cables over 10
feet long, and an astronomical problem for stage audio
engineers. To avoid ground loops, they must break
the circuit's continuity by using isolation transformers,
optical isolators, and/or differential input amplifiers.

So how long are your cables?

Most house stereo components are only designed to
handle 6 to 10 feet of cabling max.

30 feet is already asking for major trouble.

4) Feed back oscillation: This occurs when the output of
an amplifier is fed back to the inputs with a round trip
gain greater or equal to unity. The tiniest little electrical
disturbance is then amplified and re-amplified, over and
over again, usually at one preferred frequency, causing
the typical (ear-splitting) microphone squeal or howl.

In your situation feedback and/ loss of original signal
could be the result of mis-wiring the input cables.

Note that this is NOT as silly nor as unlikely as it sounds,
because many computer audio cards and even some
home stereo systems have re-configurable inputs and

SOFTWARE configuration decides which jack at the
back does what !!!!

On my computer, for example, the Realtek audio driver
tries to automatically figure out what cable is connected
to each jack (usually it gets it wrong)

Using the Realtek control panel applet, I can then
manually re-configure the gray jack as input,
the green jack as bass, pink jack as center.... etc.

If this situation also applies to your system, please check
the software configuration. Connecting an output cable to
an input jack will certainly cause a lot of HUM and not
much music.

5) Finally, don't rule out internal sub-woofer failure. Unlike
the passive stereo/hi-fi speakers of days gone by, modern
multi-channel theater systems with front, center, rear and
sub-woofer speakers are internally amplified, with active
frequency cross-over filters and special effect/ surround
sound capabilities.

Usually, the large sub-woofer contains most of the
electronics, amplifiers and filters.

It feeds the other speakers, and it is controlled by
an external volume control module which can be separate
or built into one of the tweeters.

These sub-woofer electronics are prone to poor design,
overheating and early failure. (Even fresh out of the box
like yours)

If you cannot get it working, take it back to the store,
and make the NICE salesmen **** with it.

Good luck
Please rate my answers

Jul 20, 2008 | Yamaha 5.1-Ch. Surround Sound Home Theater...

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