Question about Sceptre X20g-Naga III 20.1" LCD Monitor

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Scepter LCD not working, can't disassemble

I have a 20'' Sceptre LCD. It worked fine for about 18 months, then suddenly quit. The screen stays black, the logo lights blue (which usually meant a good signal from the computer) all the time even if it's not connected to the PC, and none of the buttons on the front seem to do anything anymore.

I'm trying to open the case for diagnostics and I've gotten stuck. I removed the bezel, but I can't seem to separate the inner metal frame from the back of the plastic case. Any suggestions are much appreciated!

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  • Anonymous May 16, 2009

    I have this problem as well, and have found that it would cost $100 dollars to replace the board and $35 shipping. That == half the price of a new, much better, monitor. Sceptre sucks. Finding the parts to replace the board yourself might work in the end, if you know what you're doing and save you some money as well.



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A little late but hey better late than never. I assume you have the screen assembly out of the plastic housing by now. The bar with buttons actually hides two out of the six screws that hold the monitor brackets in place. Pretty straight forward. Once you get the screen separated from the plastic junk, take off the thin metal protector in the centre at the back of the screen which hides the circuit boards. Should be just one screw and then slide the cover off. Make sure you disconnect the one electric connector that protrudes through the cover on the side before you remove it. Do not pull the wires, use a needle nose pliers instead. Underneath the cover you'll see two circuit boards, one with surface mounted ICs and one with capacitors and coils that the power cable attaches to. This is the board that needs repair. On this board are 4 small capacitors in a row in a small seperate section of the board. Two of those are a little smaller than the other ones. Hopefully you know what a capacitor looks like. These capacitors are rated as follows: two 470uf/25V and two 1200 uf/10V the 470s are the smaller ones. You can take the board out, make sure you disconnect all plugs and take out all screws, mark were they came from or better, take a picture if you are not faimiliar with this stuff. Then either replace the capacitors yourself or have somebody do it. The parts total about 4 bucks. Desoldering is tricky so of you have never done it, better not attempt it, get a pro to do it. When done, re-assemble in reverse order. Good luck.

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

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I may get a bad rating from you, but it is at this point, that I feel compelled to tell you to STOP!

Inside that LCD monitor are Electrolytic Capacitors.
The ones for this LCD monitor are of a large capacity. They hold a large voltage. They can hold this voltage for Weeks, sometimes Months!

Should your fingers cross the terminals for these capacitors, or make a connection to the circuit that one, or more might be in, the capacitor, (Or capacitors), would release their stored charge to YOU!

This could result in a VERY BAD shock, or a LETHAL one! Like D-E-A-D!

It is for your safety, that I advise you to leave it alone.

More than likely Electrolytic Capacitors INSIDE the power supply for the monitor are bad. The time and cost of fixing it would just be better spent on buying a new one.

SHOULD you NOT heed my warning, you have to discharge EACH, and every one of those capacitors. This HAS to be done in a safe manner.
There IS NO real safe way to do this!

We tech's don't even fool with this anymore. Too many melted screwdrivers, and too much molten red hot shrapnel flying around, to warrant our safety over it.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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I have the same problem. After you take off the bezel, you have to remove the stickers around where the stand attaches to the monitor. They don't look like stickers, but in fact they are. They are two flexible plastic stickers (kind of kidney shaped) to either side of the metal bracket that attach the stand to the monitor. Just use something sharp, like a pocket knife, and pry them up. You will find 3 screws under each one. Undo those screws, and that will release the internal metal frame from the back piece of the plastic housing. You still have to slightly pry the clips on each side of the plastic housing, but now the whole shebang should come out of there.
As far as fixing the power problem, I haven't gotten that far yet. I plan on testing the power supply next.

Posted on May 15, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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