Question about Refrigerators
Niether Frige nor Freezer is getting cold, but is on!
. To Decide if Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly.
Parameters’ are as follows and must MUST be true before continuing:
1 Condencer coil (outside coil) Clean and open for a ir flow
2 Condensor Fan motor is running and turning at enough speed and correct direction.
3 Voltage to the compressor is correct and supplied.
4 Decide if the compressor is Hot or warm or cold to the touch for future reference.
Cold or Hot
Could it be the compressor not running or that it has overloaded?
If you suspect the compressor try to follow this to decide your next step:
These little helps allow you to get the compressor running or decide that it needs replacing
1 Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.
A. If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad. No Need to go further.
B. If the compressor is hot and you read through some points on the compressor motor (pins or terminals) but not through others wait up to 24 hours for an internal over load to reset. Internal type, usually AC and larger Refrigeration Compressors. Smaller refrigerator type compressors have an external over load. After 24 hours off or yours has an external overload re-ohm and see if all have readings to each other. If these read open IE No resistance between each other the compressor is bad.
Results your looking for:
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
After 3 or 4 tries if the results don’t add up the compressor motor is bad. Replacement is required. Is this machine worth a new compressor? Is it still under warranty? Is the labor and all parts covered?
2 Assuming the above checks out:
Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and run capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration..
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
Hi: When this happens it means that there is frost built up in the back of the refrigerator. You are having an issue with the defrost heater or the defrost timer. There is an off chance the refrigerator's freezer is over packed with food and there is no circulation. If you're handy empty the fridge and take a hair dryer to the back wall to melt away the frost from behind. Look at the heater. A glass tube with a wire coil running through it. If the coil is broken, replace it. If not you will be looking at a defrost timer. Usually on a circuit board and expensive. Good Luck, Jeff
Posted on May 31, 2009
The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
((If the switch is ok, and it passes the test, simply replace the fan)).
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
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