Our unit is a GE Monogram side by side which is about 19 years old. About 3 weeks ago, the freezer stopped freezing and the refrigerator stopped cooling but the light inside still functioned. Cleaning the condenser and turning the electricity on and off had no effect. After a few days the freezer and refrigerator started working again and they have seemed to operate fine since then. Trying to figure out:
whether to call a repair person or just replace the unit
what type of repair to even suggestI also have the same problem. GE ZISW42EM Upon return of a 3 week vacation I found the front panel displaying defrost alarm, the fridge was about 48 degrees but the freezer still was below zero. A few days later a new alarm came in indicating freezer was in high temp and it was about 25 degrees. I have had the compressor changed out my a serviceman 5 years ago, they reused the R-12 but put a small amount of hot shot in. Today, the GE service guy came and said since the compressor was not OEM he couldn't help! Not a very good answer. I am a busy person and was hoping to get service to fix. I am mechanically inclined and have my universal refrigerant license, but I am trained in large water chillers not small appliances. I cannot locate the wiring diagram inside the unit, it's gone. I do suspect the defrost circuit, but also want to validate the refrigerant circuit. What temp\pressures should I be looking for with gauge set to see if system is healthy, does anyone have a wiring diagram? I have R420a, which I understand is a direct drop in replacement for R12, just weigh in 90% of factory charge to start. Can anyone give me some DIY assistance. Thanks!
This is rather like an advice to you:-
Please just call a repair person. It would not cost you much like the pain you already giving yourself cracking your brains.
It will be well fitted if an expert handles the situation.
Good luck.
Dont forget to rate this, please.
Hello,
Check the condenser fan motor and make sure it is running. Sounds like the compressor is not running long enough. Check also the freon. Make sure that the fridge has freon.
This is just a suggestion. I hope it would help. Thanks.
Two possible problems with the fridge/freezer. #1 The freon or compressor is going out or #2 The thermometer sensor or temp control is going out. I will look on www.retrevo.com for a free repair manual for you system. Do you know the model number of your system? It may be located on the compressor or a stick on inside door or in back bear coil rack
From description sounds like a possible fault on defrost system, you should test the DEFROST THERMOSTAT (THERMO PKG) and the DEFROST CONTROL (Defrost Timer).
Here all parts and diagrams for your appliance , call them to get a wiring diagram, and operating temp for specific model.
Parts also here.
759 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Ok, your description for the defrost timer and diagrams is helpful. Looks like I can access the defrost timer in place. Is there a resistant test or ?? to check the defrost sensor and to determine if the timer has failed. Does this timer activate heat strips or alters the evaporator refrigerant cycle to warm up?Can you comment on the R420 drop in replacement refrigerant? I would still like to locate the factory refrigerant charge in ounces. Usually there is a tag somewhere on the refrigerator, I have yet to pull it out as it is built in.
GE Monogram
Model ZISW42EMC
Serial RD031242
Before I shut the fridge down and move the contents, I checked the high and low side pressures. High was about 150 PSI and the low was below zero PSI. At any rate, the compressor displays that it is pumping low and high and doesn't have bad valves. But the pressure is really low, I wondered if the evap was frozen up, which would lower the pressures, but I don't see where any water would have melted\deopsited? Last night I removed the defrost timer and the coil was open circuit. Without the wiring diagram I can't tell what mode it was stuck in (I opened the timer), but contacts 3 & 4 were made in the defrost timer. I'd like to get the wiring diagram and understand what mode the timer was in and to better understand if this had any influence on the low compressor pressures. I will zoom out to standard appliance to see if I can get a new defrost timer (notes on part it is a 10 hour timer and it is original). I have R420a, a drop in for R12, I am considering recharging the system with 90% of factory charge (I found the label to be 14.75 ounces). I have gauges, vacuum pump, refrigerant scale resolution to .25 ounces. Then I would know I'm good to go on the charge. If you can get me the wiring diagram, that would be great. Any comments?
The fans are running...I installed the new defrost timer, evacuated and weighed in 90% of factory nameplate charge of 420A. System restarted and pressures looked pretty good, I bumped a little more gas in as I observed operation. I placed remote thermistors in the freezer and fridge, the temp started at 80 and was down to 65 within 30 minutes. I left if overnight and this morning the compressor was not running, the temp in the freezer was 40 and the fridge was 53. Compressor was hot to the touch and comparing the minimum temp recorded on the thermistor setup, the compressor must have recently shut off. So, it looks like I need to look at the compressor closer as I now suspect it going out on overload?
×