OVEN WON'T STAY LITE MOST OF TIME & DOESN'T HEAT WELL:
DCS 24G 60" RANGE W/6 BURNERS, 24" THERMOSTATIC GRILLE, TWO FULL SIZE OVENS-S/S W/BACK AND OVERSHELF. OVENS WON'T STAY LITE MOST OF THE TIME, WHEN THEY NEVER DO HEAT WELL. PURCHASED IN 2002, NEVER HAS WORKED WELL ACCORDING TO MY COOKS. IS THIS PROBLEM FIXABLE?
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Re: OVEN WON'T STAY LITE MOST OF TIME & DOESN'T HEAT...
Most problems with gas ranges have to do with the flame—either it isn't quite right or it's nonexistent. Many new gas ranges have "electronic ignition," a spark igniter that starts the flame as gas flows through the burnersf, when you turn on a burner, it fails to spark but you hear sparking at other burners, the igniter or the burner switch probably needs replacement by an appliance repairperson. If your range has a pilot light, be sure the pilot light is lit. have nice time..!! arte the solution!!
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Hi- This should have a gas Safety Valve, this is the main valve to the oven (this probably has 2). If you remove the lower panel under the doors they are probably right there. Looks like a large gas valve with a button on it, sometimes the button is red. You need to hold in that button while lighting the pilot and keep holding it in for a few seconds until the thermocouple gets hot enough to tell the valve to keep the pilot on. You'll have to do this for both ovens if there are 2 valves. It's possible the valves are located somewhere else on the range so you may have to hunt a bit. If the pilots still won't stay lit you may need new thermocouples in which case I'd call a Tech out to look at it. Hope this helps. Good Luck.
Preheat ovens only when necessary. With conventional ovens, keep the preheating time to a minimum. Unless you're baking breads or pastries, you may not need to preheat the oven at all.
Food cooks more quickly and efficiently in ovens when air can circulate freely. Don't lay foils on racks. If possible, stagger pans on upper and lower racks to improve air flow.
Use glass or ceramic pans in ovens. You can turn down the temperature about 25°F and cook foods just as quickly.
Do not open the oven door often to preview the food. Each time you open the door the oven temperature drops by 25°F. Watch the clock or use a timer instead.
Full-size ovens are not very efficient for cooking small- to medium-sized meals, it generally pays to use toaster ovens or microwave ovens.
Check to be sure the oven door gasket is tight. Adjust or replace gaskets as required.
If you have a self-cleaning oven, consider using the self-cleaning feature immediately after regular baking when the oven is still hot. Less energy will be required to reach the cleaning temperature. Try not to use the self-cleaning feature too often.
Keep range-top burners and reflectors clean; they will reflect the heat better and save energy.
Match the size of the pan to the heating element; more heat will get to the pan and less will be lost to the surrounding air. A 6-inch pan on a 8-inch burner will waste over 40% of the energy.
On electric stove-tops, use only flat-bottomed pans that make full contact with the element. A warped or rounded pan will waste most of the heat.
When cooking with a gas range-top burner, use moderate flame settings to conserve gas. Also make sure the pilot light is burning efficiently, with a blue flame. A yellowish flame indicates an adjustment is needed because the gas is burning inefficiently.
Whenever possible, use a pressure cooker. By cooking food at a higher temperature and pressure, cooking time is reduced dramatically and energy use is cut by 50-75%.
This sounds a lot like a defective pressure regulator.
If you do not have one externally connected, then the internal regulator is faulty.
If internal, it shouldn't be too difficult to DIY.
Just make sure the pressure rating is the same as the one that has failed.
If the burners are heating up but seem to take along time to get up to heat and your oven doesn't seem to be working you may have only 115 volts of power going to the range rather than the full 240 volts that are needed to power up the bake/broil oven elements.Check circuit breaker(s),check range receptacle behind the range for 240 volts,check for full power at the terminal block on the back of the range where the cord connects to the range.Good luck!
This is not a solution but something to think about for troubleshooting. On the DCS there are two ports that feed gas to the burner. One for high flame and one for simmer. On the DCS if the flame is snuffed out on simmer it will automatically reignite. So if the igniter will not shut off while on simmer, the sensor is bad and is trying to reignite the burner.
They probably cleaned the stove and in replacing the parts of the burner switched the rings on top of the burner. This happened to me. While they look alike, the round rings, not the flat disks, have to be on the right burner in order for the electron spark to ignite the gas. Good luck.
I am not sure of the model number of my Garland gas range (propane) I bought it in 1970 from a farmer who had purchased it at a restaurant sale. It is OLD. (so am I) I have had trouble for years with the ovens going off at times and not relighting immediately. The right oven especially.
In the last 35 years I have had the thermocouplers replaced twice, the safety valves twice, and new pilots twice. The last time these were replaced was 6 months ago by a repairman who said this was the problem. Very spendy. The ovens still would go out. I had a thought (and related it to the repairman) that perhaps there wasn't enough air circulation to the oven burners (the top burners and grill worked fine) He said there was plenty of air getting to the ovens. Two weeks later I had my son help me move the stove out another 4" from the wall and I have not had one bit of problem with the ovens since.
You can buy new fire bricks for the grill at a heating shop. I am having trouble with the thermostats now, they don't regulate the ovens to coincide with the settings. I will have them replaced next.
Every one thinks I should just get a new stove. No way. This is a great old stove, I love it.
The switch sounds like it is bad. It has ; off, lowest setting going up to highest, then light, that's what makes the spark or clicking, right. Is this the top burners and do they all do this? If the ignite module runs too long it could over heat and burn out. But if they are all doing this you have a problem with it or the relay anyway.
Gowen, more than likley it's your ignitor that failed. Remove the ovens bottom panel by removing the 2 screws in back and lifting up. Remove the nut from the flame spreader and you will see the ignitor. Now turn the oven on and look at the ignitor, does it glow. Even if it does, it needs to draw at least 3.2 amps to open the gas valve. Part number for the ignitor is 5303935066. Easy job. Catriver...post back.