Question about Miele W969 Washer
I need to change the rubber seal inside the door. Is this an easy enough procedure? Do I need any special tools? Thanks
SOURCE: replacing door seal rubber boot
Hi its just a peice of wire with a spring tensioner just pull the door seal free" towards side of machine not forward" it will come .....then you will see wire ! you will kick yourself when you see.... it i did lol
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
Basic diy tools should be ok. Take out lid screws behind plastic caps on edge(will be stars but small flat will do it).Lift front of lid and push back to remove.Remove kick plate and take out screws behind it.Remove band holding front end of seal and detach seal from rim of opening. Remove screws holding door lock and push lock through. Remove soap drawer & take out screws behind it.Carefully bring panel forward & slide to right to remove(Take care here with board &wiring)Remove screws holding front panel & lift front panel & remove it.Remove band from seal and your there.Note locating slot on seal. If possible get an extra pair of hands to hold panel with board to avoid damage.
Posted on Nov 16, 2008
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: LG washer retaining ring problem
Get a second person to help you. Just slowly start at the top. Have your hands go down each side tucking it in and have your friend prevent it from coming out. I know it's a pain but it can be down. That tool is a life saver.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
I'm assuming you mean the flexible rubber between the door and the drum. Can it be replaced? The short answer is no! However...
I recently repaired a door rubber with a tear that caused the water to flood onto the floor. Here's how:
Yes, you can open the front to get to the door rubber however the rubber seal is glued to both the door and the inner drum lip.
You may have to tilt the machine on it's back to remove three screws from the underside of the front lip. (I forget if you need to take the water pump cover out as well but it wouldn't hurt to do so.) This allows the front panel (including door) to drop down a quarter inch or so and be eased out a little.
This allows *better* access to the drum rubber. To repair a tear - really the only reason you would want to do this - you need glue and some tape.
The door rubber is silicone and will stick with normal 'super glue'. However, bear in mind that these machines can do a wash up to 95C, which is hot enough to soften superglue.
I found a new version of superglue called Repair Extreme by Pattex that copes with temperatures up to 120C. It sets in about 5 minutes.
The glue needs to be flexible. Do not use epoxy resin.
I gave the glue some form by sticking a 10-15cm piece of duct tape - the silver shiny plastic tape plumbers use, readily available from any hardware and most supermarkets - to the *back* of the drum rubber. It's a tight squeeze to get your hands in there but it can be done.
Take the tension off the drum rubber by moving the front panel roughly back in place.
Then squeeze a generous amount of glue along the tear (about 3cm long on the bottom edge; a typical problem) to completely whet the edges to be joined.
Apply a little pressure to the location of the tear for a few minutes to help the glue hold fast. Leave the glue to set for at least half an hour before reassembly.
If you can source a replacement drum rubber the old one can basically be removed by force. A good cleaning and then a suitable glue could stick a new unit in place. However, if this is required, seriously consider buying a new unit. It is difficult to make a good seal that will not leak and may not be worth the effort in the first place.
Posted on Jul 30, 2010
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