a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Probably close to 50 things could cause that, but here are a few of the most common: Bare wire in a harness of the oven, causing a short-circuit in the line. Faulty plug on the power cord. Outlet in the wall is damaged. Loose wire in the outlet box, causing a dead short. Bad wire between the outlet box and the main breaker box. Weak breaker, or a breaker that isn't heavy enough to handle the load of the oven. (especially, if you just bought a new oven, it may need a larger breaker to handle start up.) Use a fused multi-meter (voltmeter) to check for these issues, and do not try to fix it if you are not familiar with electrical work. It could cause a fire, or give you a deadly shock.
Sounds like the amperage draw of the oven is right at the breaker size. Circuit Breakers should not be loaded more than 80%. Breakers take time to trip when they are close to the limit. IF the problem started with the replacement oven element, it may be the wrong one and could be tripping the breaker by drawing too much power.
Otherwise: Wiring or breaker not sized right, maybe another load on the breaker in addition to the oven, possible bad connections causing extra amperage, or wrong the oven element made for a higher amperage oven. In rare cases the breaker might be bad, but this is not likely.
Someone experienced needs to a) identify the breaker size b) verify the wire connected is appropriated sized c) verify the oven's current requirements and d) look for bad connections.
Normally another load would not be on the oven circuit unless a diy person changed the wiring. With those items verified, a clamp on amp meter would be used to verify actual current draw when the oven is on to ensure the load is appropriate for the breaker, wiring and oven. If at this point the load is less than 80% and the breaker still trips, change the breaker.
All the information for that is usually located on the tag where the model and serial number are at. Electrical specs are 220v a/c 60hz. I can't recall the amperage. If you don't have the owners manual you can go to www.apdepot.com and get one
Check your breaker box to make sure the breakers are ON.. these typically are double throw breakers.. it is possible one of them has been thrown open.. so flip that double throw off and back on.. then check..I have seen one side of these breakers fail.. unusual.. but it happens.. then a replacement is in order.. regardless. visually it may appear the breaker is closed..but upon closer inspection.. one side may be "spongy/open". There are always exceptions..so examine the breaker box carefully.
If one breaker is open..it would be wise to keep an eye on things to determine how it got that way in the first place. If the breaker will not close or throws/pops again..you either have a bad breaker or a wiring problem..in some cases the element may have grounded out..or burned a wire.. etc.
Next thing to check for is a bad element.. Remember..this is a 220volt hot circuit with a high amperage breaker.. BE CAREFUL.. USE CAUTION.. Failure to do so could result in serious injure or DEATH.
Turn off power at the breaker box to the oven.. test the working over to make sure the power is OFF.
Remove the oven racks
Remove the screws at the base of the element
Pull the element toward you
Note how the wire(s) are connected
Disconnect the wires.. checking for broken or lose terminals..if lose or broken..repair.
You will need a volt ohm meter for the following..
Test the Element for continuity. Place each probe on the terminal ends (manual will have ratings) generally if you have continuity it probably works..
Test for a grounded/short.. one probe to element the other to terminal end..if you have continuity.. it's shorted out. Test both terminals
Replace with a new one if needed.. reverse procedure. Turn on the power .. and test for proper operation.
Again.. 220 VOLTS..HIGH AMPERAGE.. USE CAUTION..not doing so could result in injury or DEATH
After you have done the above..and get an all pass..then it's on to controllers and temp sensors.
A full upright range including 4 hotplates, oven and grill elements is generally rated about 8.0 to 10.0 kilowatts. The normal circuit in Aust. is a 32 amp circuit. Check the kilowatt rating of the double oven but I don't think it will be any higher than 6.0 kilowatt. If so the 30 amp circuit will be fine.
As a licensed electrician I've dealt with similar situations many times before.
Your connections are getting bad (loose, carboned up and corroded) from the continual over loading and over heating. This causes more resistance and thus more voltage drop causing higher amperage. It's time to either replace the entire sub-assembly or the oven, it's just going to continue to get worse and will eventually cause damage to the bus in your breaker box.
If your oven won't heat at all, the most likely problem is a blown fuse or a burnt out element. Assuming you're not attempting to repair an antique, your oven will have a clock. If it has also stopped working, it's safe to assume the oven is not getting electricity. Check your circuit breaker box and reset the breaker if necessary and see if this fixes the problem. If not, cut power to the oven at the breaker box before going any further. Note that your oven runs on 220 volts. There should be a double switch on the circuit breaker board controlling power to it. If not, there will be two single switches that need to be tripped to cut power to the oven. Even if you didn't find a blown circuit breaker, the problem could still be a blown fuse. Some older ovens have their own set of fuses located under the range top, in the back of the oven space, or behind the oven. Inspect the fuses and replace any that have blown with one of the same amperage. Your oven might also have a circuit breaker with a reset button on the control console or on top of the oven that needs to be reset. If you are still confounded, pull the oven away from the wall. If it is a range/oven combo, make sure it is plugged securely into the wall. If it is a stand-alone oven, inspect the wiring in the junction box to make sure everything is tightly connected and the wiring doesn't show any signs of damage.
In most cases look on the model number tag, the one with the serial number on it and in most cases it will tell you what amperage breaker you should run it off of. It could be a 30 amp 40 amp or 50 amp 220 breaker.
Hi and welcome. Just because you see a glowing ignitor that does not mean it is "good". You need to check the circuit amperage to be sire. Weak ignitor are ultra-common for the appliance technician to see. The minimum amperage required to open the gas valve is around 2.9 amps. if you have access to an amprobe, read the amperage draw thru one of the ignitor's lead and you will see very quickly if it is good or not. Bad oven valves are much less likely than a weak ignitor. Many do-it-yourselfers replace the oven valve because they see the ignitor is glowing and assume that the ignitor must be good.