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After "cleaning cycle" whirlpool rbs 275 pdb wall ove will not heat up. Elements ok, Oven shutdown thermal fuse was blown and replaced, but still will not heat. Alll other electronics seem fine. Tha

After "cleaning cycle" whirlpool rbs 275 pdb wall ove will not heat up. Elements ok, Oven shutdown thermal fuse was blown and replaced, but still will not heat. Alll other electronics seem fine. Thanks Tom

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: whirlpool rbd275pdb double wall oven died during self clean

The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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nice, it'd help me a lot thank you

Posted on Jan 19, 2008

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: oven won't heat

Unplug the power cord for thirty minutes, this should reset the oven.
If this still does not work do the following:
Press clean and then cancel. This will reset the appliance.

If the error does not clear , then during the self cleaning cycle, the high temperature has probably damaged the temperature sensor probe, and it must be replaced.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

jcarlton214
  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: Circuitry may have gotten tripped during clean cycle. Oven will open and electronics work but neither element will heat.

baked control module for heating elements. if you have a volt meter, check for power when oven on, if no juice its the control element, if you do get juice then its the elements

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 949 Answers

SOURCE: oven wont heat

There is a temperature activated thermostat (TOD) that is located on the back of the oven that would explain the problem you are having. The part can be checked with an ohmmeter and should read 0 resistance if it is good. The part number is 9759243 if your model number in the description is accurate (RBS245PDS)

Posted on May 04, 2010

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Kenmore wall oven self clean 2005 neither element works. Shortly after we did a self clean cycle.


Many Kenmores were made by Whirlpool and these are notorious for tripping the thermal fuse. They are not usually not resetable and must be replaced. If there is a button to reset it then it should stay down. It is probably bad. Without a multimeter you could connect the wires together and isolate them from shorting against any metal by using electrical tape and temporarily powering up the unit to see if the elements start to heat. if they do then replace the thermal fuse and reconnect the wires properly. Just be careful.

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After self-cleaning, oven will not heat. I waited at least an hour before I tried to pre-heat the oven and it will not heat.


There is a thermal fuse on the back of the oven that has blown, it is in series with the broil and bake elements so when it goes out neither element will work. You will have to pull the oven and take the back off. the fuse will be behind the rear panel. It usually has to red wires going to it. Once the fuse is replaced the oven should work fine. It is fairly common for this fuse to blow during the clean cycle due to a lack of air flow around the oven.

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I have a Whirlpool Gold self-cleaning oven w/convection. Following a self-cleaning cycle the oven will not heat up. Is there a certain amount of down time that has to go by before it will function again...


The self-clean cycle has blown a fuse in the rear of the oven. That thermal fuse must be replaced. Go to www.appliancepartspros.com and enter your model number. Find the thermal fuse on the diagram and then you can orfer the fuse from them.

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3 Answers

Oven not heating up after using self clean oven feature


OK. Not a professional, but I happen to have a lot of experience with this situation. For reference, I have a Whirlpool RBD305PDT11 Double-Oven with a "Self-Clean" feature.

Inevitably, my bride decided that she would "clean" the oven. She set the controls and let it go. At the end of this procedure, I noticed that the electronic control board no longer showed the time or any other lights. So, I checked it out and found that the oven was ENTIRELY non-functional. Virtually nothing would work.

Since this oven is hard-wired, I turned off the fuse and let it sit for few minutes (these things are just computers, so I thought that I would "reboot" the whole thing). This did nothing.

Then, with the help of the internet (thank you, "Fixya"), I found out that this model of Whirlpool oven (and many others of different brand names) seems to have this sort of problem all the time.

It turns out that the physical act of using the "Self-Clean" feature, with its very high heat, blows a few "Thermal Fuses" that are one-use only and cannot be reset. They must be replaced.

First, be sure to turn off the power to the oven BEFORE doing anything. I did this and then took the oven out of the wall enclosure so I could get to the back of the unit. For sake of brevity, I will not go over the procedure to take the oven out of the wall, but those instructions can be found on the internet. Several metal screws hold the sheet metal covering on the top and bottom. Note: This has happened to me twice now (my bride used the "Self Clean" feature without my knowledge) and I have found that the lower Thermal Fuse has NOT blown either time, but the top one has blown both times.

On this unit, the "Oven Shutdown Thermal Fuse" (part number 4451442 costing about $40) is attached with two screws and is located on the upper left section (picture attached below). It is very easy to take the two wire leads off and remove the two screws holding it in place. You can then check this item with a Multimeter to see if the fuse is working. I won't go over the Multimeter instructions, but, you are looking for "Continuity". If you have continuity (electricity will flow), the fuse is good. If you do not have continuity, the fuse is bad.

The first time that this happened (about 5 years ago), the control panel still had lights on and was issuing "error codes" specific to this brand of oven (I don't remember the codes...F1 or something) and the only problem was the fuse as discussed above.

However, the second time that this happened, as I mentioned earlier, the control panel was blank also. So, I had to look for the "Control Panel Thermal Fuse" also. This fuse can be accessed from the FRONT and is behind the control panel. In this unit, that part number is 4451042 and costs about $20. This item is sheathed in clear plastic with a "bullet-looking" thing inside of the plastic. It is very easy to pull this fuse out and check it for continuity to see if it is in working order. Continuity (electricity can flow from one side to the other), and the fuse is good. No continuity, and the fuse is bad. Again, you can check the continuity with a Multimeter. In the second instance of this happening, this fuse was bad also (that is why the control panel had no lights or error codes or anything).

Once I replaced these fuses, the control panel came back, the oven would then respond and worked just fine. If I was to guess, I would say that the cabinet that the oven is installed into is too tight of a space and the temperature just gets way too hot and the fuses blow. This is just a thought, but maybe a fan set to blow at the unit when attempting the cleaning process would help keep the unit somewhat cooler on the outside. But then, at $60 to fix and all of the hassle involved, I am NOT willing try this just to see if it helps!

Just to get in a rant....How a company can sell a unit with a feature of "Self Cleaning" that, when used exactly per the instructions, will render the unit completely useless is WAY beyond me. oven-not-heating-up-after-using-self-m2kgk0sj4irmtvrbwm3x5vdv-1-1.jpg oven-not-heating-up-after-using-self-m2kgk0sj4irmtvrbwm3x5vdv-1-3.jpg

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1 Answer

My 30" wall oven oven won't heat up. the clock works and it allows me to put in bake, 350 degrees, but the elements don't heat up. we had a storm and the power flickered on and off several times. is there...


There is a safety thermostat (thermal fuse) on the back wall of the oven that interrupts power from L1 to the Bake and Broil elements. This fails open on an over-temperature or over-current condition. The oven needs to come out of the wall to replace it - best left to a tech unless you are experienced in such things.

Best Regards,
Bruce
www.fixyourboard.com

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Your thermal fuse or TOD mounted to the back of the oven went out during the self clean,it shuts off the power to the elements.
 The oven must be removed from the wall to change this.

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1 Answer

Oven won't heat


Unplug the power cord for thirty minutes, this should reset the oven.
If this still does not work do the following:
Press clean and then cancel. This will reset the appliance.

If the error does not clear , then during the self cleaning cycle, the high temperature has probably damaged the temperature sensor probe, and it must be replaced.

Dec 03, 2008 | Whirlpool RBD305PD Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Whirlpool rbd275pdb double wall oven died during self clean


The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.

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