Question about GE GSS23SGSSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?

GE GSS23SGSSS Refrigerator

If the main control board is at fault and there is no obvious burn side on the board, and I replace the defrost heater with a new one, will it damage the new defrost heater if its the board is at fault.
If the back panel is frozen, is the problem the defrost heater or main control board or can it be both. Is it a good idea to replace them both or what other parts need to be replaced

The temperature in my freezer right now is 25F.

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  • glwoods7900 May 11, 2010

    what is easist way to check continuity on heater element? I have 2 elements and a thermostat linked to together into 1 plug.

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Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

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No it wont damage the heater.most problem i see with ge side by side ref. is glass tube heater.most likely your problem was with the glass tube heater.

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

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Samsung rs265tdbp refrigerator is iced up and freezer works fine. is it the defrost heater or defrost control?


Hello Marc-Ryan Digesu,

You have given this some thought... Very impressive!!

It can be only three things (barring physical wiring damage):

YES... Highly likely it is the CONTROL BOARD

Looking into your model (but you MUST verify the DA41 00670 NUMBER yourself)...

(3 basic parts of your DEFROST CIRCUIT)
- heater(s)... very unlikely
- defrost thermostat... unlikely
- clock/timer or control board... most likely (easiest)

The first thing you want to do (after removing power)
BUT before REMOVING ANYTHING...
take LOTS of USEABLE pictures. You will need to put every wire & screw exactly back EXACTLY from where it came!!

Always ground your hands before touching any circuit board you VALUE (BETTER purchase an anti-static wrist band... below).

Look at the bottom of the board for any obvious solder issues...
Else.. order that spare board you always wanted (anyway).

Always get three estimates... (about $115)

Prices may vary but the parts are ALL THE SAME.

Hope this helps... I like refrigerators... feel free to comment me back if want to discuss...

(I have a spare board & door gaskets... because I plan on KEEPING my refrigerator (until that HOT PLACE freezes)).

Even on eBay
Samsung DA41 00670C Assy PCB Main Main Control Board for RS265TDWP XAA OEM

Also at appliancepartspros:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-assy-pcb-main-da41-00670c-ap4700476.html

Sears
Refrigerator Electronic
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partsselect.com
PartSelect Appliance Parts and Repair Help

Jun 01, 2016 | Samsung Refrigerators

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I have a GE Profile refrigerator model #PFSSPKXBSS and the front control panel gets frozen. The only time I can change the settings is when the display panel goes haywire and starts changing all the...


solenoid for the ice dispenser flopper might get rusted, so the flop door would not close and freezer air would escape building up ice. need new solenoid assy for ice dispenser door and possible flopper.

Mar 27, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Have a ge model # GTH21KBXAWW. The freezer works fine. The bottom half does not keep cold.


Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
  1. Evaporator coils are frosted over
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the first step is to check the defrost system for problems. A key indicator in determining if perhaps you have a refrigeration defrost problem is visible frost on the evaporator coils. If your unit has frost you will need to check your defrost heater assembly, the defrost control, and the evaporator fan motor for a malfunction. Replace any erroneous parts as necessary.
  1. Damper
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the damper door could be broken or jammed. The damper is a door that opens and closes to allow cool air to flow from the freezer into the refrigerator unit, and if it fails to operate correctly, not enough cold air will enter the refrigerator to keep it cold. The damper can be replaced if it is no longer operating properly.
  1. Thermistor
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the thermistor connected to the control board might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor that examines the temperature inside the unit. If the part is defective, the refrigerator could not cool properly.
  1. Temperature control board
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the temperature control board could be at fault. The temperature control board distributes voltage to the fan motors and compressor to keep them functioning. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another issue that can cause your freezer to be cold while the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be is the defrost thermostat. In order for the defrost heater to activate to melt away any excessive frosting on the evaporator coils, the defrost thermostat must sense that the temperature is cold enough to activate the defrost heater. Without this continuous cycle, the frost will excessively build up on the coils and prevent proper air flow inside the unit. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity with an ohm meter; if it's not present, the thermostat will need to be replaced.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a freezer that's cold but refrigerator that's not as cold as it should be is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit, controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time. However, it is an uncommon cause for this issue. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.

Feb 25, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fixya manuals


It doesn't defrost
  1. Defrost control board
If the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  1. Defrost timer
If the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  1. Defrost heater assembly
If your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  1. Defrost sensor with fuse
Another possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.
Defrost drain problems
  1. Clogged or freezing defrost drain
If you are experiencing defrost drain issues, it is possibly due to a clogged or freezing drain that is blocking water flow to the bottom of the freezer. This will cause the defrost water to drain and drip down to the bottom of the freezer section. To correct this issue, thaw any ice or remove debris that could be causing the clogged drain or replace the drain heater.
  1. Drain heater
If you are experiencing defrost drain problems, inspect the defrost drain heater. A dislocated or burnt out drain heater will result in the drain tube freezing over. Attempt to return the part to the designated position or replace the damaged part to correct the issue. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Sep 06, 2014 | GE Monogram ZIRS36NM 36'' Stainless All...

1 Answer

Ge refrigerator top freezer is frosting over


Refrigerators that self defrost have three main components that cause defrost to take place. On your model GTH18ECC2RBB there is a WR55X10397 Defrost Control Board
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This part is most likely the problem and is found inside the fresh food compartment and inside the control panel. The location is 257 in this photo HERE Sometimes the defrost control board will show burn marks but not always. The other two parts that may be defective are the WR51X10038 Defrost Heater
3ca38402-1954-4737-bc8d-b2e7806ece7e.jpg

The WR51X10038 Defrost Heater is location 618 in photo HERE
and the=> WR50X10071 Defrost Thermostat
ba9f87d6-60d9-4ee7-b168-2123fa15d7a2.jpg

The defrost thermostat is location 630 in photo HERE a tutorial of how to test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat can be found on the parts pages listed above. I will try to put the defrost heater test below. I think the defrost control board is most likely the problem here so look it over first. Manually defrost the evaporator with a hair drier so you can remove the defrost heater and test for continuity. I am here should you have questions Thanks Sea Breeze

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1 Answer

About every 3 days the refrigerator and freezer stop working. The temperature goes up to 68 degrees and the outside pannel does not even put out water. I have cleaned the back and had a repairman look...


Hello mhreves,

Wrong number??

My favorite site (USA domestic)) is saying
you are missing a character in your MODEL number...

GSS23SGS(A/B/C)SS...

((I don't worry much about numbers... do IN FACT get changed over time... The important part is USA domestic))

Check out the part link below...

What you describe has to be a MAIN POWER circuit failure.

In the old days I would say "DEFROST TIMER"... without any hesitation... especially because of your "3 day" description.

New machines... your power control board typically takes that function...

I would strongly suggest you watch this included video...
then take pictures of your CONNECTIONS before you touch anything.

Always remove power & always wear an anti-static wrist strap when touching ANY CIRCUIT BOARD YOU CARE ABOUT.

$6 WRIST BAND (electro-static discharge = ESD)...

ROLL YOUR BOARD over and look at the bottom
for a BAD SOLDER JOINT under your (little black
... probably OMRON power relays...

(the quick touch of a SKILLED solderer's iron could ALTER
(or ruin) the functionality of that board...

((badly burned should be DE-SOLDERED & cleaned first))

(((better still send it in for professional refurbishment

YOU should order that SPARE BOARD you always wanted
(AFTER VERIFYING all your numbers FIRST).

LIKE at AMAZON (wrong number?)
Amazon com GE WR55X10956 Main Control Board Assembly for Refrigerator Home...

Different number
Amazon com GE WR55X10942 Refrigerator Main Control Board Home Improvement

Appliance parts (see VIDEO guide)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-board-with-core-wr55x10942p-ap6048447.html

Partselect.com
BOARD WITH CORE CHARGE

Hope this helps...

Carnac the Magnificent

Jun 23, 2017 | GE GSS23SGSSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

1 Answer

MY GSS23QGT JUST STOPPED WORKING


WR55X10942 is the part number for the main control board . The fan and heater have nothing in common . After you replaced the heater , did you defrost the coils with a hair dryer , or replace the heater and let it defrost it itself ?If you let it defrost itself , the heater could burn out again for being on too long .( this happened to me once , from then on , I defrosted with a hair dryer completely before restarting refrig . Main control board controls the fan . I've never had a bad fan motor , always been the board causing the fan not to run . The main control board will run about $150.00 if you install it yourself .

Aug 16, 2009 | GE GSS23QGT Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Fridge not cooling, intermittenly working... if we unplug it.


3 possible reasons this is happening. The control board part number
WR55X10172 Is defective. or the defrost heater or defrost thermostat. This also can be caused by the main control board part number WR55X10656 The first photo shows burn marks on the back side of the control board. We need to unplug and examine the main control board on both sides. You can visit my website and enter the model number into the model and search feature. That takes you the a list of photos of your refrigerator. You also can email me or call. My email is appliancepartsse@yahoo.com and my sites are listed below, Thank You Sea Breeze
SITE http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/=>Site

is http://appliancepartseast.blogspot.com/

PART NUMBER AND MODEL SEARCH FEATURE


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Jul 17, 2009 | GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Testing if Fault is Comming From Defrost Heater


You check for continuity at each end of each heater.If is ok you have a bad defrost timer or abad defrost terminator(it 'll close when reaches about 30 degrees).

Apr 17, 2009 | GE GSS23SGSSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

1 Answer

GE DSS25 PFMDWW REFRIGERATER NOT COOLING


You have a defrost problem, which means the problem will continue to reoccur until you fix the bad part of the defrost system. Being that it's a GE, my first guess would be the heater, but you need to check to be sure.

Pull the interior panel of the freezer back off and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. The thermostat needs to be cold when you test it, so leave a good amount of ice around it. If both of those test good, then the main control board (which controls almost everything on that unit) is bad.

When you find out the problem, replace the bad part and defrost the system manually again with a hair dryer.

Here are some photos to help you identify the parts to check, just in case you're not familiar with them. The control board is located on the exterior back of the unit, behind a small panel.

Click here to see the main control board
Click here to see the defrost heater
Click here to see the defrost thermostat

Mar 24, 2008 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...

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