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Bosch 11224 vsr no noise

Switch is getting power and sending it to the top where the four blue wires are close together on the direction switch however no action takes place doesn't smell burnt. the four blue wires at top of direction all ohm together

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  • David Ford
    David Ford May 11, 2010

    What have you got to the brush holders? Its possible the brushes are worn out and check the continuity across all the field wires. It is still a possibility that the bottom half of the switch is bad or you have a broken wire in the cord that is intermittent.

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Make sure your brushes are contacting the armature, sometimes they hang-up. But it sounds like the crossover has failed. Its the part that changes the tool from forward to reverse. You need P/N 1617200262.
Any Bosch service center should be able to supply you with this part.

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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500 Suzuki Vinson 2007 Need to know how to find power source to dash indercator n for neutral. And to send power to coil to start motor. Please help stuck.


You will need a wiring diagram to correctly locate and determine which wire. Generally, the neutral switch is mounted on the top or front of the gear case. When in neutral, the switch is closed to send power to the dash indicator to let you know its in neutral. When in gear, the switch is "open" so the light will be off. If you find the switch, you can join the 2 wires together and that should light the neutral indicator and provide power to the starter. disconnect the join when the engine starts. It should be OK for an emergency to get home.

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My washer sensor turns on and then the lid light starts flashing and the washer will not turn on. What is wrong with it?


What is the model number listed on the unit?The lid lock assembly is broken. If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White, and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the electromagnetic switch.
Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work.
The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter of cutting the power to the magnet.
Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if you want to remove the lock.
The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)
The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)

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Want to disengage lid lock on maytag centennial


I had the same problem. The lid lock assembly is broken. If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White, and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the electromagnetic switch.
Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work.
The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter of cutting the power to the magnet.
Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if you want to remove the lock.
The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)
The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)
After that the lid should work.
Please post a follow-up if this works for you.
GOOD LUCK

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Our shop has an accuturn 4502 tire changer.I would appreciate a wiring diagram/schematic that includes the capacitor,motor and the (junction block?)


115v USA wiring. We replaced our A.O. Smith 312P458 with a Century C524 motor. Century has bought out A.O.Smith and this is the interchange motor. The drum switch has four wires going to the motor (plus a ground). 2 wires are Hot and Neutral in Forward and Reverse (I refer to these as Line)and 2 wires are Hot and Neutral in Forward and swapped in Reverse (I refer to these as Switched Line).
On Century motor, remove Brown jumper wire all together. Hook up as following:
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Pin2=Empty
Pin3=Black, Switched Line
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Have a MIRELV-600M with 2 MA-R in a 4 way situation. Lutron tech support has given us a different wiring solution each time we call but it still does not work. They say that these product are compatible to...


The best I can do is tell you how a 3 way and a 4 way switching circuit works, once you understand that all you have to do is throw in the dimmer (note: you can only have one dimmer in a circuit, the rest of the switches must be simple on and off switches). I did some research on the dimmers you purchased to use, and it claims that the accessory dimmers can be used along with the MIRELV's as you have said but in my experience when you try to do something like that, one dimmer would have to know what the other two are doing, and that is not happening, and unless the current is electronically controlled on the whole circuit by each dimmer, you'll never get all three dimmers to work.. So lets see if we can get it wired properly and get it to work, if not you will have to try using one dimmer and two regular switches and see if it resolves your problem. In every four way circuit there is at least 2 three way switching devices, one at the beginning of the circuit where the power comes in and one at the end of the circuit where the power goes out to the lights. You can have numerous 4 way devices in the middle of the two three way devices. So let start at the first 3 way device, which will have three terminals one it. Every three way switching device has whats called a common terminal, this is where your incoming power attaches. Then you have 2 "traveling" terminals where your traveling wires will connect (called this because your power will travel to or communicate with your four way switch through these wires (note: you cannot mix these wires up or your circuit will not work). Order doesn't matter at the three way, but at the four way you need to keep them straight; there are four terminals on your four way switch designed to pass the current along that you fed it from the three way. The are two types of four way terminals, some times incoming wires go on top or bottom terminals, sometimes on left or right side. Either way if incoming wires are on top and you have red wire on one side and black on the other when power leaves at the bottom you keep the colors on the same side (Note: all these concept apply if your dimmers have pigtail wires to attach the wires to as well). And once you get to you final three way switch you want to keep the traveling wire colors the same as the terminals on the first three way switch. The power will leave this last switch and go out to your lights through the common terminal. If your dimmers happen no to work, remove two devices and replace with two normal switches, just make sure they are three way or four way switches as needed (remember four ways go in the middle of two three ways). Three way switching and four way switching is very confusing, and I know the Lutron company won't try to explain how things work, just take your time with it.

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1 Answer

I have power to 3/w switch, and 3wire cable that goes thru 4 lights to a 3/w switch. Can I wire all 4 lights to come on and off with the two 3/w switches ? If so how?


Yes, you can. Since you have power at the one 3-way switch already. Use two of the three wires to go DIRECTLY through to the other 3-way switch. Make sure NOT to connect these wires to anything other than to the 3-way switch. Now, you have power at the one 3-way switch - and the two wires (called travelers, jockeys, etc.) going directly over to the other 3-way switch. You already have your neutral at your lights, so that's taken care of. Now, wire each of the four lights together - and take your remaining wire down (connect it) to the (powerless) 3-way switch where you just brought the two travelers/jockey wires to. Land this on the colored/odd screw on the 3-way switch. Now, the 3-wire cable that came from the 3-way switch that had power to it already...has a remaining wire that you will cap. You used the two wires to go directly over to the other 3-way switch - and now, that third wire can just be capped (or taped off). So basically, you have power at one 3-way switch. You have two wires going directly to the other 3-way switch. And from this switch, you have a wire going to your lights. The neutrals are connected together between the four lights (which I'm presuming have already been connected back to a neutral source, or your electrical panel). I hope this helps. If not, please contact me again. Good Luck, and I wish you well.  - Jim

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http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/ei600c%20-%20english.ashx

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Have new switch for belle 110v cement mixer


This should be pretty easy. you should have either two or four wires in the box and two or four hook ups on the switch. the wires in the box must stay aligned with the matching colors so if your switch has four connections but you only have two wires hook them up to the post opposite each other top to bottom. (they need to both be on the same side) if you have four wires but only two switch posts wire nut the two white (or blue) together and switch the black (or brown). The important thing to remember is the power needs to come in on go into the switch or breaker first.

let me know if this wasn't helpful

Mar 21, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

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