Question about GE GSS23SGSSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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Testing if Fault is Comming From Defrost Heater

How do you test if the defrost heater is working or not on a GE GSS23SGSSS refrigerator.

At what temperature should the freezer be?
Should the defrost heater be disconnected?
Cold or at room temperature?
According to GE, this frig now requires dual kit and I am not sure right now what is inside my frig, single or dual defrost heater, How can I differentiate the two besides the obvious?

Thank you.

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  • Tigran G Apr 17, 2009

    Can you explain a bit better. Thank you for your time. It us much appreciated.

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  • 358 Answers

You check for continuity at each end of each heater.If is ok you have a bad defrost timer or abad defrost terminator(it 'll close when reaches about 30 degrees).

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

  • christian nielsen Apr 18, 2009

    The defrost heaters are atached to the coil inside the freezer in the back wall behind the back panel.When you take that pannel off you'll see the coil and in the bottom of that coil there's one heater element and in the middle you find the other one(they look like aglass pipe sopported by an aluminun rack and you'll see a wire comming out of each end of each heater.To make sure that the heater is ok you disconnect them and check for continuity between each end of eachheater if its burned sometimes you be able to see the black burned spot through the glass.If both heaters are ok the problem is either in the timer or in the defrost terminator(round thing with two wires also atached to the coil)that when the timer stop the compresor and the coil where this defrost terminator is located is under 32 degrees the terminator closes and energized the heaters.The timer is either inside the fridge where the cold contrl is or in the bottom of the refrigerator behind the grill.If the back wall of the freezer block with ice you can turn the timer very slow until you heard aa click or you heard that the compresor stop and if the heaters work and the terminator is ok after a few minutes you start hearing inside the freezer the water from defrost dropping on the red hot heaters and evaporated.In that case the timer is bad.

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Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

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If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

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