Considering this model. What does the 4 way venting mean? My laundry room is very narrow and we had trouble with the inatallation of the venting for the previous dryer so it sticks out alot past the counter.
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Inspect the dryer venting from the rear of the dryer to the outside vent hood of the home. If there's a restriction in the vent--the clothing in the dryer takes longer to dry. When an LG dryer is functioning normally---the time required to dry laundry is determined by the *Sensor* located on the drum side of the lint filter housing and by the main control board. When laundry is near dry--any Time Remaining on the control panel that is *not* needed will be eliminated---except for the last 6 minutes. The final 6 minutes of any LG automatic cycle is for cooling down the laundry before the dryer ends the cycle. If a dryer *counts down* to the last 6 minutes but the laundry is still not dry--the computer will allow the dryer to run until the laundry has dried or defaults (not drying within the additional time allowed). Dryer vents that are longer than 8 feet with more than (2) 90 degree turns--can affect drying performance. Setting the DRY LEVEL selector to *Very Dry* will solve most dryability issues. In homes with abnormally long vents--even the longer run time in the *Very Dry* setting is usually not sufficient to dry laundry loads. Reducing the length of the vent or starting a second cycle becomes necessary to fully dry the clothing. If a second cycle was started---only the amount of time that is needed to dry laundry will be used before dropping to 6 minutes and then the cycle will end with dry laundry.
LG gas dryers are more sensitive to venting length and air flow resistance. The gas burner can cause a rapid increase in temperature compared to an electric burner. Rapid temperature rise in a gas dryer leads to premature burner shutdown (longer time required to dry laundry). The gradual temperature increase of an electric element is more "forgiving" in homes where the dryer venting is less than ideal.
First off, unless you are using the manual dry (timed dry) option, the times listed are strickly an estimate. At the begining of a cycle, the dryer has no idea how big a load you have, how wet it is, and how good your vent is. In your situation, I would clean off the two silver colored moisture sensor bars, located just inside the drum, by the right side of the lint filter area. They are curved, about 5 inches long, and about an inch apart. If you use fabric softener sheets, they can aquire a waxy build up, which inhibits them from detecting that the clothes are still too wet.
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a
hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.