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by stalling do you mean that the blade stops spinning or the motor stops turning
if the blade stops spinning then the mounting bolt for the blade is not tight enough
if the motor stops spinning , junk it and get a new unit
I'm not sure if you have a chop saw or circular saw. Either way, it sounds like the nut and washer are not tight enough to hold the blade. If you have a circular saw clockwise will tighten the nut and washer onto the blade and hold it in place. Most chop saws are a left hand thread and then you would turn the nut counter clockwise to hold the blade tighter. The blade wobbles because it is not tight.
You might have the outfeed table lower than the blade. If the outfeed table is adjustable, then you can check it easily with a steel ruler. With the Power OFF, lay the steel rule on edge on the outfeed table so that it hangs over the blade. Rotate the blade by hand in the forward direction. The blade just just barely touch the ruler. If the ruler is bumped up and pulled forward by the blade, then this is the problem. If your outfeed table is not adjustable, then you need to adjust your blades. If this is not the problem it may be that your wood is not uniformly dried.
From the description it sounds to me like the bolt holding the blade in place isn't tight enough, obviously. If there isn't a button on the saw that stops the blade from rotating when you're changing out the blade. Try this--when tightening down the blade, put it on the saw, then open the guard and rest the blade on a piece of scrap wood to stop if from moving. Then fully tighten down the bolt that holds the blade in place and you should be fine.
Does the motor continue to run? If so, the blade retaining bolt may not be tight enough. Most saws have a 'stop' pin which locks the drive during the blade tightening procedure. Make sure the blade is very sharp to reduce cutting effort. Hope this helps!
Had the same problem with my mower. Find a length of metal pipe that will fit over the handle of your socket wrench and it will give you more torque. The nut on mine would not even budge with a 12" extension bar, but when I put a 3ft steel pipe over the bar, it popped loose with very little effort. I also used a wood block to hold the blade tight
1st, !!UNPLUG the saw!! Wear gloves to prevent nicks from contact with the saw blades.
If this is a handheld 'skill-saw' type saw, use a piece of wood to chock the saw blade from turning as you use a proper size socket/wrench to loosen the bolt which holds the blade.
The bolt will loosen counter-clock wise. It will probably be very tight, and you will have to use some effort to loosen it.
Remove the bolt, lift the follow guard and remove the blade.
Replace the blade with a like size diameter blade by raising the follow guard, inserting the blade, replacing the bolt, using a piece of wood to keep the blade from rotating and TIGHTEN the bolt. You will almost feel as if you need three hands to accomplish this procedure but its been done millions of successful times.
You've answered this yourself. The blade only needs to be nipped up enough to grip. If it slips, it will tighten. Thats why, some machines have a left hand thread, as they always rotate so as to tighten in the event of slippage.
If the blade slips under normal service, suggest you clean both blade and the flanges, and just do it up a little tighter next time.