I just bought a bezerk amplifier and have installed it to power 2 bezerk subs,all the gear is brand new. I am having trouble setting it up as I set the volume on the head unit to 2/3 of max volume in order to set the gain but while turning the gain up you can just start to get sound from the subs and then the sound disappears, the amps fault light does not come on and the only way to get sound again is turn the gain all the way down for 30 seconds and try again. Can anyone help?
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Re: Amplifier cuts out when turning the gain up
Make sure the amp is getting good power and ground - there should be 12V across the two terminals.
Also make sure you're giving it the proper ohm oad - how do you have your subs wired up?
Do your headlights or interior lights dim when this happens?
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You may have to increase the size of you power cables to the amplifier. Both the POSITIVE and NAGATIVE wires should run directly to the battery. At this power level, you may actually want to install a battery right at the amplifier, and use the shortest possible cables between the battery and the amplifier. connect the battery Negative and positive terminals directly to your car battery using #6 cable as a minimum size. This will almost guarantee enough power for your ampl,ifier to run properly.
There are many sub woofers out there that would be suitable for your amplifier. Just stick to the quality brands such as Elemental Designs, JL Audio, Alpine(type X), MA Audio, RE Audio and there are many more. Make sure the minimum power handling for each sub woofer is 600 WATT RMS.
Another thing. The gain control on the amplifier is not a volume. It is there to match the output voltage (V) of your head unit to the input voltage of the amplifier. For example, if your head unit RCA output is (1.2V, 2V, 4V or even 5V) then match that on the amplifiers gain to be the same. The higher the V number is on your head unit, the stronger the signal is that is being sent to the amplifier. For example,
If your have a 4V head unit and the gain control on your amplifier is set to 1.2V the you are sending almost 4 times the amount of signal strength to your amplifier. This causes distortion and distortion causes speakers and sub woofers to blow.
I hope you understand the concept.
IMPORTANT: This is a powerful amplifier, a 4 Gauge or 2 Gauge power cable MUST be used. Less than 4 Gauge, will cause over heating of both the cables and the amplifier. YOU DON'T WANT THAT.
If you still have doubts and need more assistance, let me know.
1. Check if your power cable is of adequate Gauge
2. Try turning the volume down from the amplifier gain level
3. You could even check to see if your battery is on it's way out and just cant feed the amplifier with the power it needs. (very rare case) do the car lights dim when the volume is not really that loud?
4. There could be an error on the way the subs are connected, double check that you have absolutely configured them to run @ 4OHM. could be checked with a multimeter before connecting to the amplifier.
5. Another rare case is sometimes the fuse block expands when it heats up on loud volumes and can have contact issues so try tightening the socket that the fuse goes into.
6. It could also be a problem with one of the sub woofer or even the amplifier.
more details might help me better understand the problem, but i hope this helps.
Sounds like you are showing too low of an impedance load to the amp. The E1200 is only stable as low as 2 ohms. If your subs are wired to show lower than a 2 ohm load then the amp will go into protection mode as the volume or gains are turned up
Make sure there's no missmatched impedance. If your sub running 2 ohms then your amp has to be 2 ohms stable. Does the amp blow fuses or get really hot? If it does it can be a fire hazard and I would recommend taking it out of your car. It could be that you don't have sufficient grounding. The grounding needs to be very close to the amp and the paint needs to be thoroughly scratched off. Otherwise could be a blown transistor within the amplifier, you can check this by opening up the amp, running a multimeter and testing the transistors for resistance.
How did you "switch the sub from 2ohms to 4 ohms"?
If you have the swr-1222d as listed, your only options are wiring 1 or 4 ohm, as it is a dual 2 ohm voicecoil.
If it was wired @ 1 ohm - you may have already done the damage to your amplifier - as it is not rated @ 1ohm mono.
There are 3 reasons the amplifier will go into protect mode while playing... Thermal - overheating due to too low impedence. Ground Loop/Short Circuit - Blown voicecoil, bad amplifier ground, tinsel slap, etc. Overload - Impedence not within specs.
Disconnect every wire (including RCAs) from the amplifier. Reconnect only power and ground - make a short wire to loop from power terminal to remote terminal.
If the amplifier stays on without turning off - remove the jumper, add the remote wire, and try again.
If it turns off - the problem is internal and needs repair.
Still on? plug in 1 rca, and re-try.... then the other.
Now use an Ohm Meter - or Digital multimeter set to ohms 20, and check both voicecoils. They should read 2ohms +/- .5ohm.
If they are OK, wire up the 4ohm load (series the voicecoils) and turn the gain on the amplifier to 1/2.
If the amplifier continues to fail at higher volumes - the thermal protection relay has become weakened because of your improper wiring, and will need to be repaired to solve your issue.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
I Had the Same Problem I just unplugged my amplifier changed the fuse, also i had a fuse in the battery cable and changed that, unconnected the RCA wires and plugged them back in and then put new fuses in and plugged everything back into the amplifier and it worked again. If that doesnt work get back to me i will try to help you.
comp VR 15s are rated @ 500W RMS 1000Peak.
The lanzar vibe amplifier is 2 x 600W RMS at 4 OHMS 2 x 1200W MAX at 4 OHMS 1 x 2400W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged 2 x 1000W at 2 OHMS RMS.
Your subs are single 4 ohm subs.
If your subs are wired stereo, they both are seeing 600W. (more than the rated RMS)
Chances are, you have them wired parallel to a 2 ohm mono load - of which that amplifier is not rated. In theory, it will produce about 2000W @ 2 ohm mono for a short period of time.
Your amplifier is too powerful for your subs. Turn down the gain setting to 3/4 or purchase better subs. Also be sur the subs are inthe proper enclosure. It sounds as if they are excurting past their linear x-max and colliding with the rear bump plate. This will cause damage down the road if left as is.
These subs are dual voice coil I'm sure...make sure they are putting a 2 ohm load on the amp total, and also set your gain and frequency setting right. Set the frequency around 85 or 90, make sure the lo pass filter is on. Turn the gain ALL the way down and turn your stereo to the point right before your speakers distort....then slowly increase the gain until the subs are playing at full volume. This should not even be close to all the way up, and the subs should sound accurate and bold. Turning them past this point will cause distortion, in which case you should back off the gain a bit. Distortion causes power to cycle through the amp very rapidly and can cause blown subs and blown fuses.
If you do not know how to wire both subs for a combined load of 2 ohms, please let me know what type of subs you have.