Ovens Logo

Related Topics:

Posted on Sep 16, 2007

Whirlpool Envoy electric oven and cooktop

Hi, I'm required to find out the watt useage of my old Whirlpool envoy electric oven and cooktop. Any ideas?

1 Related Answer

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 16, 2009

SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool Envoy free standing cooker,

Give it to me! Mine doesnt work at all.

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

I have a Whirlpool Envoy Oven that now needs a replacement oven element and guard for it. I don't have a product or model number for it. I just know the oven is at least 30 years old or more. I'm having...

Hello, I'm not a salesman, I really do try my best to help people. I would suggest replacing the Oven, not just the part on a machine of that age. I hope that was a help?
0helpful
1answer

Cooktop on light will not shut off

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about the problem of the cooktop light staying on.

Oven Hot Surface Indicator Light stays on


heatman101

3helpful
2answers

Electrical output requirement for a buit-in oven and cooktop

Providing the existing switch outlet iscontrolled by a 30amp circuit fuse or trip, then there is no problem connecting the 2 appliances to the same switch.
If on the other hand, it is controlled by a 13 amp breaker, then you cannot connect both appliances to this, you would have to use 2 seperate sockets.
Hope this clarifys your question.
0helpful
1answer

Hi i have a very old 1970? whirlpool electric single oven

It sounds like you burned out the oven heating element control board.
0helpful
1answer

1 or 2 circuits to create 2 phase?

How to explain this? your new drop in unit will require a 220v circuit capable of a specified amount of amps. Typically 40, 50 or 60. Should be noted in the manual and on the unit itself. If your original oven and cooktop were electric, then each one was probably hooked up to a 220v circuit. The problem is figuring out how many amps were supplied for each. The simplest way is the go to the panel and find the breaker for the old oven and cooktop and read the numbers (or amps) on the on/off switch. If either breaker has a number the same or greater then the drop in unit says it requires, then your all set. If the drop in unit says it requires 52amps and one of the breakers says 60 on it, your fine. If the drop in unit says it requires 44amps and the breakers are 30 or 40, then you got a problem. Usually a breaker is installed that is the maximum amps allowed for the size (thickness) of the wire connected to it. You CANNOT connected a 50a breaker to wire only rated for 40a. Note the size difference of wire connected to a 20a breaker with wire connected to 40a breaker. If the drop in unit requires more amps then the original units used, then a larger wire will need to be ran from the panel to the drop in unit (Not cheap). Now if the original oven used a 30a and the original cooktop used a 30a, then its possible ( 80% of electricians wouldn't do it because of liability problems) to use both wires together to create 60amps, but both wires (actually a total of 6 wires, 2-120v wires and 1 ground wire from each outlet) would need to be in the same outlet box for the drop in unit connection.. I could (and probably should) try to explain more, but I'de probably just confuse you more. GOOD LUCK!
Not finding what you are looking for?

487 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ovens Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

6688 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

29494 Answers

Are you an Oven Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...