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The foward and reverse button/slide does not lock in place.it will slide past the correct working point, and if you do get in the correct spot it wont stay.

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The locking ball spring is bad, you can remove the spring and stretch it to add tension to the spring so that the ball locks the trigger assembly in place. If you need more help post here and here is a web page for parts and books with diagrams.
http://www.toolmedic.com/Schematics/ChicagoPneumatic.aspx

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I bought a used Elmo TRV-35H 35mm projector. The camera works fine, but the tray only moves in reverse when I press the forward or reverse button. And after moving through a few slides it then moves...


Remember, mains voltages exist within the projector and thus the unit MUST be disconnected from the supply line whilst carrying out any servicing.

The reported fault sounds like sluggish operation of the advance/reverse mechanism. Lubricants used in the past tend to age and dry out so that the mechanism doesn't function correctly. IF YOU ARE CONFIDENT TO DO SO, remove the top of the unit and locate the slide mechanism. Carefully clean with cotton buds dipped in pure electronic cleaner and then re lubricate, using an oil dripper with the finest industrial sewing machine oil - emphasis is on a 'drip' of oil on the moving pivot points. Put the top back on and try again.

Problems with remote controllers are suually associated with tarnished contacts either in the hand unit or the projector. Once again, the contacts can be carefully cleaned and all should be well once more.

If you are using Kodak Carousel magazines, make sure you are using the correct magazine for your slides - cardboard or glass mounts. Don't mix slides in a magazine, as this can also cause problems.

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1 Answer

Removed carousel midway by lifting release as a slide fell down,


With the tray removed, cycle the projector in Reverse button 5-6 times. If it is just a mechanism jam from removing the tray mid-cycle, this will cure it. To set the tray back to Zero, FIRST make sure the locking ring is in place and tight on the top of the tray. Then turn the tray upside down & release the latch and rotate the bottom plate back to it's home (Zero) location.

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How to remove ignition lock cylinder from a 1974 corvette?


The early model GM lock cylinders a re a little different than the 80's and 90's. If you have a replacement lock, you will see a small black spring loaded bar on the side of the cylinder housing. that is what holds the lock in place.
to remove it, most times you need to punch through the cast housing in the correct spot to depress that bar. Once you press the bar correctly, the lock simply slides out. the new one will slide in and lock in place by itself.
Here are the instructions and a picture to help you accomplish that.
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Push the top metal button all the way foward as if pushing the blade out to it's (farthest) 3rd setting. Then push foward and down one more time which locks the mechanism down. Push and hold the yellow side button as you insert the blade. When the blade locks in all you have to do is release the yellow button and return the top slide to it is fully retracted home. The blade is loaded

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1 Answer

My fisher and parkel dishwasher keeps displaying F1


The best thing to do is turn the power off ,remove the bottom drawer by pushing in the clips on side of the drawer ,just below the round plugs. The clips are attached to runners, push them back to release the drawer and ( after taking out the rack and spray arm) put the drawer on its r.h.side. Mop up the all water in the base, then remove the cover that goes over the back L.h. corner, this will expose the mains/flood switch board ( make sure you dry the roof of the drawer before you take the cover off , or water can drip onto the board .....not a good thing!!!yikes.gif).

To remove the cover, push in the clip in the middle front edge of the cover with a flat blade screwdriverand slide the cover foward a bit, then put the screwdriver under the clip and twist up, the cover should now pull off to the right. Spend a couple of minutes drying the board with a hair dryer and mop up any remaining water ( be careful of the board again). Refit the cover and switch back on ( you shouldn't need to force the cover on, just slide it on from right to left , but you may have to push down the cover just above the clip to get it to lock once it is located correctly). If it doesn't F1 again ,all good, if it does , remove cover and redry, and repeat until it doesn't.

To refit drawer, slide out L.h. rail and sit drawer on it, then lift right side of drawer and slide out other rail and sit other side down. If the rails don't want to slide foward and lock, lift the drawer at the front while sliding the rail fowarduntil the front edge of the rail is just at the clipping gap at the side of the drawer, then make sure the drawer is sitting down firmly on the rails and pull clips foward to lock. If the drawer has been clipped in correctly it will slide in and out nicely, if not , look at the back edge of the drawer when it is fully open to see where it is sitting too high and rectify by refitting the rail on the affected side/sides. By this point if any part of the bottom drawer was broken ,you would have seen it. Also check the top drawer by releasing it and pulling it foward,shine torch in and have a good look.

Hopefully it won't leak again unless ther is a faulty part not visible to the nakedshock.gif eye, check by running one drawer for a couple of minutes, stop the cycle and open the drawer and check the outsides for water ( don't be too worried if you see water in the bottom between the drawers as it will drip from the roof, unless the drain or fill hoses are split ) ,if ok, run the other drawer and check.

Remember, if you get to a point where you don't feel confident with what you doing or you think you might break something, leave it and call a professional to do the job, you may save money in the long run and if you going to expose wires or connections always switch off and unplug before removing the cover, you dont know whats underneathxbones.gif.

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1 Answer

Meade etx-80 sticking


Some (not all) versions have an end stop - it it just reaching that? The scope will rotate only aboit 3 complete turns between the 2 ends.

The 'correct' starting position is as follows: Place scope on tripod or table with control panel at the West. Unlock the declination lock (horizontal slew). Rotate scope anticlockwise until it hits the end stop, Then roate it back clockwise until scope is pointing North (should be about 3/8 of a turn, as the end stop is at South West). Then lock the declination, Set the tube horizontal and continue with the alignment process.

Autostar always thinks you have set the position like that. If you haven't, it will work OK until it tries to rotate past the point it won't go, then chaos results!

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