Question about Northgate MONNG7NSS 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

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DEAD SET R42 on the power board and L1 And L2 on the power board all show signs of overheating.

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Re: DEAD SET - Northgate MONNG7NSS 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor Computer Monitors

Check the inverter circuit.

Posted on Sep 18, 2007

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Viewsonic pc monitor model va 1912 the set is dead only voltage presents is on the filter capacitor. mplease can you help thanks

Do you get any power light at all? There are two normal failure points on that power supply board. The first is the 2 small 220uf capacitors as seen in the picture below. When these 2 capacitors fail and the tops bulge it causes the MOSfets to short out which blows the small fuse labeled F200 on the bottom of the board. When this happens the unit will show a power light on the front but no picture on the screen. The other failure point is the group of filter capacitors near the board interconnect to the driver board. Look for bulging tops on the capacitors. If you see the bulges then replace the group of capacitors and you should be good to go.


If you need the MOSfets and F200 fuse parts then they are available here:

Sep 26, 2012 | Computer Monitors

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Monitor does not turn on

The most common cause of power issues with that model is a dead power supply resulting from a failure in the capacitors on the power board. This is a very easy repair. You have to replace the 6 filter capacitors on the power supply board. The capacitors on the power supply board should be flat on the top and when they fail the tops will bulge showing failure. You can open the monitor up and look at the power supply board and check for the bad capacitors to verify the failure point. Here is a link to some information and parts kit to repair that board.

I hope this helps.

Jun 20, 2012 | ViewSonic Computer Monitors

1 Answer

The power is on but the screen is blanc

If you have checked the computer with a spare monitor and was okay. Then the problem in the inverter board which powers the back lights behind the screen, "usually caused by bad capacitors on the board sometimes bulge showing signs they are open"

Feb 17, 2011 | Samsung SyncMaster 740N 17" LCD Monitor

2 Answers

My hp monitor is totally black it was working last night. i tried to unplug and replug it in and it came on for a few seconds then went black again

A lot of time people have the impression that the monitor is not working when in fact the computer is not booting its lighting up but nothing else so its stays on a black screen.

One way to know is by opening your speakers or plugging head phones, if you hear windows open or any windows sound the problem is the screen.

You can also unplug the screen from the pc and turn the screen on most of the time the screen while show a disconnected warning on the screen if that comes up the computer is defective.

Oct 29, 2010 | HP Computer Monitors

1 Answer

Monitor keeps turning off

sign of overheating or problem with power board filter capacitors, have it serviced..

May 08, 2010 | BenQ G2110W 21" Monitor

3 Answers

How to know if the monitor is totally dead?

Generally, if the power light (LED) doesn't come on and there is no screen display with or without input signal, it's dead. Probably a failed power supply.

Aug 29, 2009 | Samsung SyncMaster 540N 15" LCD Monitor

1 Answer

Philips 150S4 15" LCD Monitor Problem

If it just fails to turn on, the main power supply is probably at fault and without some technical background and a couple of test instruments, you will not likely be able to do the repair yourself. 

Modern power supplies are designed to shut down if the current drawn exceeds the design level, which indicates that something the supply services or the supply itself has died.

If you are adventurous, you might pull the plug on the set, allow the set to sit overnight, gain access to the innards, and with good light, inspect any boards inside.
If you see one that has few ICs but many more larger discrete parts, this will be the power supply.
Again, before touching anything inside, especially on that board, allow at least several hours to be safe since the larger capacitors can hold a painful voltage charge for some hours.  
You are looking for components called electrolytic capacitors that are almost always cylindrical and mostly installed upright at 90 degrees to the board with leads passing through to the solder side.
This same type of component in smaller dimensions is still used in a horizontal package with leads bent down and passing though holes to the solder side.
The latter are becoming more rare since they don't lend themselves well to robot assembly.
Many failed caps (not all) will show signs of pregnancy when they fail, bulging unnaturally at the top when compared with others. Now and then, there may be traces of a crystalline deposit around the end where the seal failed from internal pressure.      
These will have values listed on them in uFd & VDC and sometimes, a plus/minus number lying about the precision.
Some also have a date code (rarer) that will look like four digits:
2403 = 24th week of 2003
Most electronics suppliers have a stock of the various values but if they have a date code at all, try to get only those made before 2002 or after 2006.

The larger caps will probably be OK since the failure is likely related to functions other than brute-force filtering. A pretty good 'rule of thumb' is to replace any caps you see bulging of any value but especially those that are 100 uFd or less.
If you see signs of overheating such as discoloration of the board material, it may not be repairable but if you can find a part number on the board, you might be able to buy the power supply and install it yourself.
If there are no signs of heat damage to the board, there may be companies offering to repair it as a subassembly instead of repairing the whole set which could be much more expensive.
If you choose to replace it or have it done, the power supply still may not be at fault since most are capable of switching on and off if a downstream problem is causing an overload.
If you choose to replace failed caps yourself, you will need a quality soldering iron with a small, preferably iron-plated tip, rosin core solder and a sponge which when wetted is used to frequently wipe oxidized solder from the tip this should be kept bright and clean and fresh tinning will keep it that way.
You should also buy some solder 'wick' with the iron; this is used to place on the solder you wish to remove and then heated with the iron. Properly used, the wick will absorb nearly all of the solder from the lands from which you wish to remove a component.  

Oct 12, 2008 | Philips 150S4FB 15" LCD Monitor

4 Answers

Sceptre X9G Komodo IV 19 in

check out any dry solder or burnt and re solder it , hope it helps AJ

May 03, 2008 | Sceptre X9G Komodo IV 19" Flat Panel LCD...

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