Question about TORK Digital Interval Timer Ssa100r-24
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Posted on Jan 23, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The L terminal would be for your "hot" incoming black wire. The X terminal would be for your load outgoing black wire. Connect both white neutral wires to the blank terminal (notice this feeds the timer motor. The other two terminals (1&2) are not necessary if it is a 110V single circuit.
Posted on Aug 03, 2010
Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1
You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral
You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)
Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2
If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.
Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2
Posted on Oct 07, 2010
T-103 has 120V clock motor with 5 terminals A 1 2 3 4
Tork 1101 has 120V clock motor with 4 terminals L 1 X 2
T103 is DPST and can control one-or-two 120Volt loads, or one-or-two 240Volt loads.
Tork 1101 is SPST can control one 120Volt load
Common ground between these timers one 120 Volt load
Changeover for one 120 Volt load:
White wires T103 terminal A go to Tork terminal X
Black wire T103 terminal 1 goes Tork terminals L and 1 (there is brass connector plate that connects L and 1 - if connector is missing, jumper between L and 1)
Black wire on T103 terminal 2 goes Tork terminal 2
If Load requirement is greater than T1101, Grainger sells T103 clock motor for $16
How to wire T103
T1101 wiring manual
Posted on Dec 02, 2010
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