- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Two possible problems that I can think of.
1) Frozen components. - This can happen at temperatures slightly below freezing, when operating temperatures melt snow enough that the melt can flow to colder locations and freeze, jamming the contact point. Possible, but not all that common.
2) As the temperature decreases, metal will be subject to thermal contraction. If the discharge chute rotates in a snug metal collar (or something like that) there can be a point at which the contraction effectively clamps the components together.
Warm it up enough to consider how the function works.
Then consider what is stopping it from working, and
Repair as necessary, that could be grinding off some metal, adding a shim, or coating the entire interface parts with white grease.
Hope this helps.
have you examined all of your headlight bulb sockets for any heat/fire damage? even if not, pull the bulbs, and use an appropriate headlight socket insulating grease to reduce temps and avoid corrosion.
when headlight bulbs are changed, it is suggested to use a socket grease insulator to seal them from humidity/corrosion AND to lower socket temps. without this grease, the headlight sockets could possibly catch fire and/or melt, and, if the exposed wiring then shorts, it would blow a fuse.
heat the column with a hot air blowdryer like the girls use but not to the point where it melts anything(plastic mainly)and apply heat to the bottom of the steering column right by the dashboard base.. this heat may warm up the litium grease that is in both the key unit and the atual switch .. this will take a few minutes on both so be patient with it..then later. spray wd40 into the key area just enough for a couple of drops to come back out(short spurts) and try that.. repost findings..thnx
thats what it will do when nothing frozen is in the freezer,you should hear the defrost heater popping if theres frost or ice melting off the evaporator coil in the rear area of the freezer its working ok
Sounds like you need to service the caliper. Remove the piston from the caliper by pumping the brake pedal, be warned you will get brake fluid everywhere. Remove piston seals, dust and oil, you'll probably find that the grooves where they usually reside are full of 'crud' thoroughly clean the grooves, clean the seals then inspect seals for damage and replace if necessary, grease seals (high temp grease) and put back into caliper, wipe away excess grease. Inspect piston for corrosion, minor corrosion can be flatted back with 1200 grit sandpaper, if too badly corroded replace. lightly grease piston (high temp grease) and push into caliper. the piston should slide in easily by hand. Finally bleed caliper well, flush new fluid through entire system.
Sounds like it's stuck in defrost. I'm not familar with this model so I can't tell you where the timer is located. Try looking on the back of the unit for a diagram that may show where the timer is located. Look for a small wheel that is made so that it can only be turned in one direction and use a dime to turn the dial until it clicks, the compressor should start.
turn your freezer temp dial to off and wait 30 seconds, then turn it back on to max setting. if you have temp gauage you can try to check temp inside freezer, if not cold enough (less than 30 degrees) you could be losing freon gas. you need to call technician.
The melted capacitor and relay is a symptom of a serious problem, high amp draw. Much of the time this is caused by a plugged condenser (dirty). The only thing that can draw enough amps to melt those is the compressor which means, you might have a bad compressor if you kept the condenser coil clean. The defrost timer has a dial on it. Turn it clockwise and see if the unit begins to work. If the dial won't turn, the timer is bad and should be replaced. If it turns and you hear a :"click" yet the unit doesn't work, your relay and capacitor are probably done for. I'm assuming you got a "3in1" electronic relay capacitor overload. They can't take the amps the original relay can.