Wife noticed the utility room was warmer than normal while checking on status of laundry this morning. No odors, just warm. She checked again later to find clothes not dry. I disconnected unit, pulled off back cover, cleaned and inspected. I found no visible problems. I did not know if this unit (Electric) has a thermal fuse to replace or reset type to get it going. If not, please help me determine if it is the thermal cut-off or the Hi limit thermostat or the heating element itself that needs replacing. The unit says to see if the heater box thermal unit is open.I was unable to figure out how to check that.
Thanks for any help you can give.
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Suspect vent still plugged with lint, leave vent disconnected and run dryer, stay within eyesight when doing this, if the dryer dries the clothes, then look for blockage in the vent pipe to the outside.
I understand that the dryer on is not heating on your Frigidaire laundry center, model# FFLE1011MW0. Before calling a technician, check the following solutions:
1)Make sure that the two house fuses your dryer is attached to. If one of the two fuses is blown, the drum may turn but you won't receive any heat.
2)For Gas Models Only: Make sure the gas supply valve is open, make sure there is enough air supply to support the burner flame, and make sure the LP gas supply tank is not empty or there has been a utility interruption of the natural gas.
3)Check the lint filter, the ducting that leads outside, as well as the outside vent for any lint that might be clogged inside. This can cause a no heat issue, due to your dyer is not getting a good air flow.
4)For Electric Dryers Only: Make sure your dryer is connected to a 208 volt circuit.
I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your dryer status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.
Wow. In electric dryers with an AUTO cycle; the heater runs on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage. If the resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if a thermostat was bad. The timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. You need to make sure that you test for continuity in the resistor. I've looked at two parts diagrams for your washer and cannot find a sensor anywhere in either, so the thermostat is what tells the timer to advance once the dryer reaches a preset temperature. The thermostat will only tell the timer to advance if the dryer reaches the proper temperature, if you have some clogging in the vents, the dryer may never reach the proper temperature, and thus not advance on the auto cycle. but i'm sure you've probably checked that. I'm baffled. Let me know how it pans out if you can. Thanks. I'm still trying to find a wiring diagram for that model.
What I would do is pull the dryer out and unplug the power cord. I would remove the rear cover and check the components back there for continuity.If all of that is good then the timer or breaker might be bad. Why? The timer calls for heat through the RH leg. The amp draw from the heating element arcs up the contact point inside the timer. The motor runs on 120 volts the heater runs on 240 volts. So the breaker will take a beating on the heater side of it. The dryer will hower still run. To recap It could be the heater the limits the time or an electrical problem. Rate it or Hate it:
Check the blown fuses and home’s circuit breaker tripped. Dryer use 2 household Fuses or a circuit breakers, If one is blown, the dryer may still operate but not heat. Alternatively, the dryer may heat, but it may not heat up as hot as it should. Replace the Fuses or reset the circuit breaker.
Another common cause of a dryer failing to heat is a faulty Heating Element. You will need to replace it.
Good Luck and have a nice day.
Rating the solution is highly appreciated.
I assume it is an electric dryer with 240 volt plug ? My guess is that it is the contacts in the motor start/relay switch that have welded themselves together and when the motor stops, the heat does not. This switch is located on the motor and it only allows the heat element to operate if the motor is running and creating the air flow. It is worth replacing. Goodluck, Macgivor
Have you cleaned your vent lately?
It might be excessively outgassing an ammonia smell because some plastic part that is getting too hot. If the vent is making it run hot or not exhausting it might stink up the room. Otherwise, it might just be stinky plastic. I don't know anything about your specific model, but I had a bread maker that was the source of a garlic & ****-like ammonia smell on the top cover after the plastic turned yellow from heat & age. Not a good feature for something that makes food and lives in the kitchen.