Need to know torque specs for crankshaft and tranny input shaft when changing stator...

When using an automatic transmission, it's the torque converter's job to transmit and multiply the engine torque, and deliver it to the transmission. If you cut open a race torque converter, inside you will find: the turbine, stator with sprag, and impeller pump. The converter's turbine is attached to the drivetrain via the input shaft of the transmission. When the turbine moves, the car moves.Depend's on what model the car it was you took the motor and tranny out of !!! (More Info)

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the torque specs for the crankshaft pulley bolt on the 2.2 liter engine is 181 foot pounds

Clutch hub nut, left-hand thread, couple drops 262 loctite (red) to last few threads, 70 - 80 ft-lbs.

Crankshaft nut, right-hand thread, couple drops 262 loctite (red) to last few threads, 150 - 165 ft-lbs.

TORQUE SPEC FOR ROD BEARING BOLTS 19 - 24 FT LBS TORQUE SPEC FOR MAIN BEARING BOLTS 60 - 70 FT LBS, CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT 85 - 100 FT LBS. MAIN BEARING OIL CLEARANCE .0005 - .0022 CONNECTING ROD OIL CLEARANCE .0008 - .0015 / SHAFT END PLAY .004 - .008 / AND ROD SIDE CLEARANCE IS .004 - .011 HOPE THIS HELP THIS INFORMATION I GAVE YOU IS INLINE 6 -200 AND INLINE 6 - 250 ENGINES

Assuming 3.0 V6, per my manual:

All in FT pounds torque,unless noted:

Main bearings: 60
Connecting rod bearing cap nuts: 34
Rocker arm shaft bolts 180 INCH POUNDS
Intake manifold: 168 INCH POUNDS
Exhaust manifold nuts: 18
Crankshaft vibration dampner bolt: 112
Cam shaft sprocket bolts: 70
Head bolts: 76 - 83
If you need others please let me know, when working with Aluminum parts go easy as they can strip easy.
Please let me know if this helped,
Tom

There is a large lock nut that holds the axle into the splined end inside the transaxle. This nut is usually torqued into place very well though, but if it is loose or was not torqued properly then this could cause free-play in the axle. You can look up the torque specs online or use a chilton or Haynes manual to get the specification.

Hello
I Sent an Answer but am Unsure if it was Posted or Not. Here is a Possible Repeat Answer.
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in..***
The Stator/Charging Coils are then Unbolted and Removed and the New Stator/Charging Coil is Attached.
Assemble the Engine in Reverse Order.
The Flywheel Nut Torque for you Engine can be Located at this Site Addy; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/ .
The Clearance for the Coil and Flywheel was Included Earlier in this E-Mail.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Hello:

The Ign Module is Usully the Coil and the Stator/Charging Coils are Located Under the Flywheel.
>>The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines for Replacing the Flywheel Key, the Stator/Charging Coil/Magneto and the Point Set on Older Engines without Electronic Ign Coils.
>>It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated.
>>***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover).
>>Remove the Coil.
>>Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model).
>>Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel.
>>Tighten the Puller.
>>Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and and the Jaws of a Standard Puller will Not Fit. On these Type Engines you can Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel.
>>**BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** >>Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft.
>>*** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in..***
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

The thow out bearing is part of the slave cylinder assembly. Autozone carries 2 of these part numbers (12596) for $47.99 and (LSC003) for $84.99. Don't foget to change the pilot bushing also. It's $3.99. It's located in the back of the crankshaft. The input shaft from the tranny rides in it. Let me know if you need any help with changing it or bleeding out the slave cylinder. Thanks, Len