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Green light no sound...i have a pioneer lcd head unit with 1 guage wires for power and ground to amp (jbl bp1200) with remote wire and one set of rca running to amp..i read the manual and tried installing as said which i found to be unique by not using the sub output from the face but using the front and rear outputs from head unit to amp and no difference still just a solid greenled with no sound. the subs i want to install are 2 alpine type r as well as two mtx which are supposed to have 300rms...lol mix and matching see what comes of it ..any way need some help here jbl tech support is garbage said never heard of this...
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Sorry I did not use the video out RCA cables. My audio RCA cables worked fine... I ran them to my JBL amplifier through a conversion adapter. I did not run it direct to the amp.. I used Metra TYTO-01 03-08 Toyota Vehicles Harness for JBL SYS (Ebay item 160560648718) and it worked great.
Here is the wiring color coding that I found online:
Code on stereo for steering wheel is 0000
2011 Toyota Camry Car Audio Installation Diagram
F6 Pins:
1.Light Green (LG) Front Right (FR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Pink (P) Front Left (FL) plus (+) speakers
3.Grey (GR) Accessory power [switched on with the ignition switch] +12v
4.Light Blue with Yellow Stripe (L-Y) always +12v [radio memory]
5.Light Blue (L) Front Right (FR) minus (-) speakers return
6.Violet (V) Front Left (FR) minus (-) speakers return
7.Brown (BR) Ground (GND) radio ground
8.Orange (O) Antenna Amplifier (ANT) power source
9. No Connection
10.Green (G) Night Lighting [+12 when the taillights are turned on]
F7 Pins:
1.Red (R) Rear Right (RR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Black (B) Rear Left (RL) plus (+) speakers source
3.White (W) Rear Right (RR) minus (-) speakers return
4.No Connection
5.White Black (W-B) Lighting Intensity [Pull down circuit, voltage level drops {Bright Dash Lights}or raises {dim Dash Lights} Caution with this one, DO NOT CONNECT DIRECTLY TO +12 VOLTS, you will mess up your instrument panel cluster.
6.Yellow (Y) Rear Left (RL) minus (-) speakers return
F8 Pins:
1.No Connection
2.No Connection
3.Violet (V) Speed Pulse Connection (SPD) [Pulses from the speed sensors applied here. This is for the automatic sound level system. The volume raises when the speed is above a specified level, if enabled.]
4.No Connection
5.No Connection
6.Pink (P) Steering Wheel (Switch) Ground (SWG)[common]
7.Orange (O) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) one (SW1) [source for Seek+, Seek-, Volume+, & Volume-]
8.Yellow (Y) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) two (SW2) [source for Mode, (if equipped On Hook, Off Hook & Voice)
9.No Connection
10.No Connection
11.No Connection
12.No Connection
13.No Connection
14.No Connection
15.Orange (O) Auxiliary Right Input (ARI)
16.Brown (BR ) Auxiliary Shield Ground (ASGN)
17.Red (R) Auxiliary Left Input (ALI)
18.No Connection
19.Green (G) Auxiliary Input [Sense](AUXI)
20.No Connection
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: 3 1/2? Tweeters
Car Audio Front Tweeter Depth: 2?
Car Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Violet
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
The head unit should have a RCA Sub Out. The RCA wire goes to the Sub Amplifier, along with power, ground, and a blue remote wire from the Head Unit. Next, the Sub Amp is wired to the Subwoofer with speaker wire. Without an amplifier your sub won't make any noticeable sound.
Run a jumper between the power wire and the remote (disconnect the remote wire from the head unit first). If the amp turns on, you got a blown fuse, or other problem with the remote turn on from the head unit.
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Orange Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow Radio Ground Wire: Black Radio Illumination Wire: Gray Radio Dimmer Wire: Brown Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: N/A Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2′ Speakers Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Tan Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2′ Speakers Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Brown Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Dark Blue Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue
Hope this info helps please let me know if you need any further info
Your amp could be in protection mode! Sometimes turning up to high or wires touching will put in protection mode! It will have to be unplugged for a day or two to drain all power out of the memory. Leave accessorie/ignition wire hooked up, just not power and ground wiring. It should reset itself.
power wire from batt fused to positive on amp .earth wire eg - to bare
metal in car with bolt or screw. remote wire from amp to remote wire on
back of head unit mostly blue wire it tells amp when to turn on then
you need a set of rca cables to send sound from head unit to amp they
go in subout if you wanna use sub or rear or front out for full sound
best thing is to buy amp kit cheaper most the time and all you need
there hope this helps
bolt to floor board about 1/2 in. off ground run power, ground, rca, and remote wires to mounting destination conect power to pos remote to remote and ground to ground rcas to rca jacks in both cd player and amp then run 12 guage speaker wire from amp to speakers
You do not specify the make and model of your amp, so it is not possible to point you to specific troubleshooting information. However, some problems are generic and it appears that you have already isolated the problem to the amp itself.
It's still possible that the head unit does not provide a strong enough input signal, but your amp should have a level control that allows you to match it to the head unit. I'd also doublecheck the other amp settings. If the setting check out, it's likely that the amp is defective.
With these units, the internal amplifier is an IC that fails sometimes. It can leave the rest of the unit working ok, bit will have no audio. There may be audio from the line level RCA's but not from the speaker outs. Smell the back of the unit to see if it smells burnt. Most of the time it will, but not always. The IC is usually something like a PAL007a or similar. If you are good at soldering, you can order the part, and change it yourself. If not, you will need to seek a technician to replace the part. You may also try an external amplifier and RCA's instead of fixing the IC.
good somone with type r's woop my speciality!
How have you wired your type r's?
I will say mixing subs on one amp is not a good idea!
Output 4 Ohms
600W x 1
Output 2 Ohms
1200W x 1
Signal-to-Noise Ratio
>100
Frequency Response (±3dB)
20Hz - 500Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion
0.1%
Input Sensitivity
250mV - 4V
This is the specification for the amp your are currently using.
So really this will only support 1 type r depeneding on how you have wired it!
Could you please tell me how your type'r s are wired so i know what ohms ur running? and wat type r's they are its either 4ohm or 2 ohm :)
thanks
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