Question about Whirlpool 25.2 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator GD25DFXF
How do you replace the coiled tubing water reservoir in one of these refrigerators? I see tons of places selling the part 2196171 or the new replacement 2209687 online, but the place that ship instructions with it charge at least $20 more than those who don't!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the first one sounds like it is slowly leaking freon.
Posted on Jun 29, 2008
There is a drain hole in the back of the freezer on the bottom. Get back there with some hot water. Most of the time it is just lime build up. Unless you know what feel back there. Another way is to move the freezer out and from the back side you can see the drain line. It just pulls right off
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
It should be on the right hand side in the back take off the compressor cover on the back should be 8 or so 1/4 screws nutdriver type and then two more hold on the water valve. If you have a RO system hooked up to refrig you may need to change the filters on the ro or just change the filter on the refrig. those two will also cause the water to drip thru the valve allowing it to drip on the front
Posted on May 30, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
To All With This Same Problem ,
Remove the top freezer door hinge cover ( 1 screw holding it on ) , and disconnect the plug there . This will disconnect the power to the door dispensor .
Using a butter knife or small screwdriver , insert it in the bottom of the dispensor cover between the grill and the cover .
Push down and in wards , to force the bottom of the cover outward , being careful not to break the 2 or 3 built on plastic clips on the cover .
After the lower portion has been disconnected , lift the cover up to disconnect the top clips and then remove the plug on the cover .
The white piece on the dispensor now visible , is the bracket control .
The switch on the right side , is for water , the switch on the left side , is for ice . Usually , the ice switch , has a broken " spear " , which holds the switch in place . The whole bracket control , pt # 2180226 , will have to be replaced . Only 2 or 4 screws hold it on .
This part is easily replaceable by the consumer .
Just be careful when installing the switch , not to break the new " spears " and be sure to reinstall the plastic " spacers " in the same spot on the new bracket .
When reinstalling the dispensor cover , slip the top on first , and just lightly " pop " the bottom back in place .
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
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