How do I open the case on a Dell E`73FP? I have purchased a new logic board for it but have been unable to open the case for installation..I have begun popping the edges but this sounds and looks like it is stressing the plastic. is there another way?
I am repairing my E173FPc Dell Monitor and to take off the back cover you must look on edge of frame to the lcd and you will see little Pry Slots.
Get a flat head or knife and stick it in there, then give it a twist and "snap!!"..continue along the frame at about 4 inches apart till the whole frame is off (but dont take the frame off just yet.
lay the panel down on the LCD on a Towel or somthing soft, then unscrew the 4 phillips screws to the stand and remove. then pull the back off.
Now on the sides of the tin you will see 4 more screws,...remove and lift but be carful you must unplug about 7 plugs before you can get to take out the circut board but that has screws also that need removing.(((seperate and label your screws)))) or (((take a few digital Photos as you go)))).. THATS IT.. I WILL POST PHOTOS SOON SOMEWHERE THAT GOOGLE WILL PICK UP LABLED DELL E173FPc LCD Monitor repair Blank screen blinking green light specific>
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The door open sensor does not give a signal, or at least the signal is not coming to the logic, so the device knows the door is locked. Can be anything, from a scrap of paper, a defective switch, broken wire to a defective logic board. That is why in these cases you need a tech, or buy a new printer.
There are several possibilities, all of which are warranty issues. It could be an inductor squealing in a power regulator or converter circuit, a bad bearing in a fan or hard drive, or a defective filter in the speaker circuit (this would come from the speaker, although the speaker would not be the problem; it would be the logic board). You may be able to narrow it down by opening the case and listening through a non-metallic tube to pinpoint the noise source. If you are unable to part with your computer for more than a few hours to get it serviced, contact Dell support - they may arrange to send you the replacement part, and their on-line service manual should show you how to replace it, if that is available for your model (it's been about 8 years since I helped someone do this, but Dell service was very cooperative then). If you have a local Dell authorized service center, you can have them ID the bad part, give the computer back, then call you when they get the part. If the problem is the hard drive, be prepared to make a disk image before replacing it so you can load up the new one with the identical information you would have on the original.
PCI Slot 1 problem it appears. This means opening the case and reseating all the above-board cards such as video, audio, ethernet, etc.
Shut down the computer and unplug it. Press and hold the power button for a slow count of at least 10. Then you may open the case. How your case opens depends on the model. If this computer is what I think it is and you're unfamiliar with going inside the case I would suggest taking it to a repair shop. The Optiplex computers I've been inside of of are awkward to work with.
The Dell Dimension 8400 has a CR2032 battery inside the case. If your computer is saying that it is dead when you turn it on, this is a quick fix. A new CR2032 battery can be purchased from any general store (Best Buy, Walmart, Radio Shack) for about $4. Open your Computers case. There are buttons at the top and bottom that let it open like a book. You will see the battery somewhere on the main board. It looks like this. Use your finger nail or a pen to push the clip holding it in place out of the way. Replace with you new battery and close everything up.
I have the very same problem. I have 2 Liftmaster 2500, 1/2HP openers installed in a 2 car garage. They are merely 15 feet apart in my garage ceiling. About 15months ago one stopped working by only the remotes. Went through the process of reprogramming the good one 1st and replaced batteries in the remotes, then trying to reprogram the one not working. Checked for radio interference near the one not working no LED or Halogen Lights, no wall tarnsformers, no cell phone interference etc... Nothing worked to on the 2nd opener in trying to get the remotes working again. I then purchased a New Logic Board, part number 41A5507-B. It was about $70 and then installed it in the 2nd opener which is not working. Tried to get the remotes programed - still nothing? I was baffled. I called Liftmaster - the only suggestion they gave me was was to totally unplug the GOOD opener and try the reprogramming up close to the 2nd door opener that's not been working. SURE enough - the Opener Remotes "Learned" okay and started working! Liftmaster Help line indicated that the thought to be GOOD opener actual had the defective Logic board and it was over powering the signal from the 2nd opener which was not working. I'll be taking the New Logic board and replacing it in the 1st opener. Thank you Liftmaster for the help !
typically the remote codes are stored on the controller board (called logic board). if the wall switch for your opener still works, but you are unable to reprogram the existing remotes that came with the unit (assuming of course you checked batteries in the remotes) then it is likely that the logic board has died. Given that the opener is 13 years old, this is not unexpected. New openers have a host of new features including advanced security, so it might be a good time to invest in a new one.
I had the same problem. Although it appeared to be the logic board, on mine it actually was the connectors between the logic board and the power supply board.
There are 2 connections on the logic board. One white connector with wires going to the main unit, and another set of connectors that plug directly into the smaller circuit board that holds the step-down transformer (120vac - 22vac). These pins were not making good connection between the boards. I simply bent the pins slightly so they would make better contact on the logic board and have not had a problem since. This must be a weak point on these door openers. Purchasing a new logic board would work too, as the connectors are newer and tighter.
OK. Start by remiving the cover, fan, adaptor card and power supply. Remove from the logic board: The hard drive power cable, hard drive data cable and the floppy drive cable. with the rear of the case facing you, release the two tabs with your forefingers while at the same time as pushing on the 120-pin connector with your right thumb. Slide the logic board to the front of the case until it stops. Caution: Be sure the power on/off button
clears the rear panel before you lift the logic board out of the case.
While lifting the board, do not touch connector
J19 or J20. (The oil from your skin harms
Gently lift the board out of the case.
Replacement Note: Remove the SIMMs from the
defective logic board and install them on the
replacement logic board.
I really hope this helps because it is correct information. If you want to be extra cautious, visit a repair shop instead. Good Luck!