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Home electrical problem: Lights on one circuit do not work. They were flickering for a while, then went off completely. I replaced the circuit breaker in the panel, and tightened up all the ground wir

Home electrical problem: Lights on one circuit do not work. They were flickering for a while, then went off completely. I replaced the circuit breaker in the panel, and tightened up all the ground wires in the panel. What else can I do?

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Sounds like a bad connection. First thing is to check any wiring that you had installed or changed.

Is the home wiring copper or aluminum?

If you know that the circuit breaker is working (check with volt meter) then you have to check all the splices on that circuit. The bad splice will be the first light on the circuit

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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No indicator lights


A Bosch washing machine can make your life easier. Look in the troubleshooting section of your owner's manual for specific information related to the make and model of your Bosch washing machine.

Find more details on Bosch Home Appliances at Appliances Connection online.

Make sure the washing machine is unplugged or the circuit breaker is turned off before you attempt to replace any parts.

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Why do the house lights flicker and dim when I turn on my HP Laserjet printer? Once it shows it's ready, the lights return to normal.


1) The printer is on a circuit that is close to overloaded.

The printer power needed, is just enough to push the load, to the edge of too much.

I do not know what country you are in, but let me use the USA as an example.
The USA uses 120 Volts (AC)

In the Service Panel, (Circuit breaker panel), there are circuit breakers used for receptacles, and lighting. The standard size of circuit breaker to use for these types of circuits, is a 20 Amp breaker.
( 20 Amperes)

120 Volts times 20 Amps = 2400 Watts
(120 Volts X 20 Amps = 2400 Watts)

This is THE maximum load this circuit will take.

Come close to this maximum load (2400 Watts), and the lights may flicker.
Solution is to use a different receptacle, that is not as loaded with appliances, etc.
(The receptacle will be on a different circuit)

[ I would also remove some of the load off of that circuit. With 2400 Watts available, one should only use a load that is close to using 2100 or 2200 Watts.

This leaves a cushion of 200 to 300 Watts if needed.
If there is an appliance that has an electric motor in it, (Refrigerator for one example), you need a 'buffer zone' of at least 200 to 300 Watts.

Someone needs to go through, and see what all is connected to this one circuit. (One circuit breaker) Then that person needs to go through, and see that the circuit will not be overloaded, by varying what can be plugged into this circuit, or used on this circuit, at one time ]

There is another thing however that I would like you to have checked by a professional.

I need to explain how power comes into a Service Panel in your home, first.

There are 3 main large cables coming into the Service Panel, at the top.
(From the Service Meter can outside)

Two Conductor wires that carry the power, and 1 Neutral wire. (There is also a bare copper Ground wire. More on that in a moment)

http://www.make-my-own-house.com/diagram-electrical-home-wiring.html

Again, using the USA as an example, there is 240 Volts (AC) coming in to the Service Panel.

There are 3 thick wires covered in insulation. (Black)

One thick wire is 120 Volts. It connects to a power lug at the top of the Service Panel, inside the Service Panel, and connects to the Left side.
(Only seen if the cover of the Service Panel is removed.
You? NO. Professional? YES)

Another thick wire also carries 120 Volts, and connects to a separate lug at the top of the Service Panel, on the inside of the Service Panel.
This lug is on the Right side.

The last thick wire is a Neutral wire.
It connects to a lug in the Middle.

[ LUG = Square/rectangular piece of metal Base, with square piece of metal Top.
There is a screw going though the top, and into the base.
Tightening the screw squeezes the Top and Base together ]

Electricity coming into your home, or business is AC.
Alternating Current.
AC vibrates. It vibrates the wires.

After time the vibration can loosen the connection, of the wire to the Lug. (Screw vibrates loose)
This can also cause the lights to flicker.

With the wire connection being loose, Resistance is created.
Resistance creates Heat.
Heat creates FIRE.

Please have these connections checked in your Service Panel by a professional. I want you to be safe.

For additional questions, or to have me explain anything I have stated in more detail, please post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

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1 Answer

Why do i get power at the 120v outlet but nothing works when its plugged into the outlet


It sounds like a bad neutral wire. Somewhere the neutral is not properly connected. Most residential wiring operates on a 240 single phase system comprised of two seperate 120 volt legs. Connect between either leg to the neutral gives you 120 volts.connect btween the two legs gives you 240 volts. If the neutral is not present the circuit will search out the other leg to try to complete the circuit causing dimming of lights extremely bright lights and all around chaos. Check ahead of the main to see that the voltage is correct. Check each leg to neutral with a voltage tester. Have some one turn some lights on and off while checking as sometimes a load is required to get fluctuating readings. If the reading fluctuate wildly the problem is between the power grid and the panel. If not recheck on a a couple of breakers and if the readings fluctuate it is on your side of the system.
. Hope this helps
. Bob

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1 Answer

Installed 8 low voltage lights with a malibu digital 120w timer 2 months ago. The timer does not always work. I'll unplug then power up the system and then the lights turn on. Never had this problem...


Timer is not identified:
Open following link to see low-voltage digital timers and then add a comment if needed:
Page also has links to warranty information, and list of advisories so power pack lasts longer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html#digital

There are 2 likely suspects: Bad timer, or electrical problem.
There is no repair for bad timer, but timer has warranty through the manufacturer/ Malibu.
Electrical: Since power pack worked correctly before, then outlet probably has correct polarity, but I always suggest checking outlet with circuit analyzer.
Also plug lamp into same outlet and see if there is flickering that would indicate loose wire. Wiggle circuit breaker and see if lamp flickers. Move the outlet and see if lamp flickers.
Outdoor outlets get loose wires because of exposure to temperature and dust and moisture. Replace outlet and don't use the quick connects, instead use screw terminals.
If possible, move timer to different outlet on different breaker and see if problem persists.

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1 Answer

Have intermatic timer model et70215c. Interior lights flickering. Checked all connections and when circuit #1 on the circuit board is touched the lights flicker. Can the circuit board be replaced and...


1) If this timer was working fine before and stopped working, then timer is defective.

2) For warranty claims and parts:
Intermatic Inc.7777 Winn Road, Spring Grove IL. 60081
https://parts.intermatic.com/

3) If this is new timer or existing installation went bad, then check that circuit is clean.
Use circuit analyzer on outlet on same breaker.
Circuit problems can affect timer electronics.

4) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer, or any do-it-yourself project.

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1 Answer

None of the top stove or oven elements work. Control lights come on but nothing is heating up at all. (GE JBP80)


Hi,

The control is operated by 120 volts and the heating elements work off of 240 volts.

The most logical reason for your not heating (if there is none of the burners working) would be that one of the sides of the circuit is broken. Most likely this loss has occurred at the circuit breaker, try turning the breaker off completely and back on.

If this does not resolve the problem then the power loss may be a broken wire inside the range.

It is best if someone knowledgeable in electricity with a good meter does the testing beyond the breaker or fuse in the home.

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Maytag 3000 Series front load gas dryer (Whirlpool) - No lights, no digital display, not able to turn on or start. Yes, unit is plugged in to AC outlet. Yes, AC voltage is good at 120V. Yes, circuit...


OK everyone, my ears are red. Over the weekend, I gave this another shot, since my warranty repair appointment isn't until next week.

I opened the dryer door (the drum light is off, indicating no power at all) and went to the circuit breaker box, and flipped the washer/dryer breaker back to off and then re-set the breaker again.

When I got to the laundry room - the drum light was on!

So I powered up the unit, and ran the machine. It ran for about one minute, and then went off. So I went back and re-set the breaker again.

Visually, the breakers did NOT LOOK tripped - but flipping the thing off and then on to re-set the breaker worked.

This time, the dryer is working fine. The bad part is: I need to replace the breaker for the second time. So this is NOT a defective dryer, it is a bad electrical supply. I will call the electrician back to make him fix this right. . . . .

Thanks again for all who responded. This is a new unit, purchased on 7/7/2009.

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1 Answer

Headlights are not working


You seem to have a stuck H/lmp relay, Taking out the circuit breaker only disabled part of the electrics,
If you examine the fusebox / Relay housing s (there may be more than one . You should be able to identify suspect relay (it will be warm to touch) . You may need to examine the Running lights / Dimmer H/lamp circuit if it had one. Putting an Amp meter across ( in line not parallel ) the not running vehicle will indicate drain from battery . There might be a slight arc upon connection but it will level out to near zero drain.

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1 Answer

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If the light is a flouresent light more than likely the ballast is bad. Very simple to replace but make sure power is of..Very common problem.

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The screw is loose. It is always HOT (has electricity going to it) so be careful. If you feel confident, cover a screwdriver with a few layers of electrical tape and tighten it. Depending on how long it has been arcing, the breaker will need to be replaced. Since the incoming wire will have power to it, have a licensed electrician do the job. He will possibly remove the meter head to cut the power while he does the work.

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