Question about Hoover Nextra HNT 2135 Top Load Washer

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My Hoover Boss 2320L Top Loader washing machine leaks water if left on soak or is set to high level. It also doesn't spin out all the water from the cloths. I have checked the belt which looked worn and replaced it, but it still doesn't spin fast enough to ring out the water. The water pump is working ok so I know that's not a problem. Could it be a failing motor? Also, I've read here about a worn bearing causing problems. Would water leak through here and cause the spin cycle to slow down if it is worn?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: hoover washing machine top load, model 550m.5.5kg

water leak from cold hose nothing to do with other problem. tighten hose connection and fit a new hose washer overfilling probably because air chamber blocked. remove lid. you will see a pressurestat somewhere at the top - usually round with anything from 3 to 7 wires and a small tube underneath. follow hose down and it connects to the air chamber. make sure this is free of gung and check hose for splits and has no blockage. to check the pressure stat itself, attach your own hose to the stat and while machine in fill mode, blow down this hose and you should hear a click and water intake will stop

Posted on May 04, 2007

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SOURCE: hoover 600mb 6.0 kg top load washing machine (not as below)

Machine unbalanced or belt is worn maybe

Posted on Apr 04, 2008

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: 2320l hoover washing machine wont spin fast to dain all water ...on any program ...all other things ok ...can hear grinding noise when washing ..dont use machine at moment ..like metal rubbing:)

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.

  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.

  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Hoover 550 MB Top Loader washing machine

Will the unit spin if you manually turn the timer dial to spin? If so, remove power, remove the clock motor from the timer, and inspect the clock and mating timer gearing for debris or damaged gear teeth. At the worst, replace the timer. You may be able to scrape or file the damaged teeth so that the timer will progress.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

Testimonial: "That is great advice . Will try and see if your solution works . cheers"

e-Guru
  • 3917 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace gearbox, new

Hi,


For replacing bearings first take the power off, remove covers. Disconnect drive belt, remove drive pulley. Remove heater, thermostat and pressure switch. Check if drum splits at front, rear or the middle. If the drum is a plastic welded one- ie one which doesn't split, then its game over. If it splits at front or middle, drum will prob. need removal from machine. This involves dismantling the suspension and damping system and removal of door seal and concrete weights. Undo the drum fixing system - either a clamping ring or a series of peripheral bolts and split the drum. If the drum splits at the rear, removal from machine probably not required. Remove the clamping system and pull off the rear plate. Seal and bearings will come away with the plate. Seal needs to be dug out with a suitable lever and the old bearings hammered out with a punch from opposing sides of the back plate. Refitting is a reversal of the above process.


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Posted on Sep 28, 2010

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