Question about Kicker ZR360 Car Audio Amplifier
I have: a ZR360 mounted on a block of wood, through the carpet, behind the rear seat of my 95 Z28. The power comes from the battery through an appropriate power cable and into a distribution block, then another cable (8ga) into the amp. The ground...it's 8ga ( I think) is connected to the hatch lock assembly of the car...it's also where the car's deck and tail lights are grounded...as well as other things.( I figured it must be a decent ground point) The speakers are 10 inch subs which are mounted on a 1.5 inch thick board, side by side, and that fits over what used to be the trunk of the z28, actually it can hold four six packs stacked 2 x 2. Makes a perfect subwoofer encloser( I hope). I have the speakers connected in series- L+ to L+ amp/ R- to R- amp/ L- to R+ speakers. I ran the amp in Low-Pass Adjusted the gain about 10 oclock from dead 8. I turned the H/U about halfway up. I put U2 in. Halfway through 'Streets with no name' the subs started to shake, hum, pop, and then the cones just started pounding like something out of a bad trip and tore right out of the frames. Then all hell broke loose and if it wasn't mine, I'd laugh myself stupid. The subs just slapped and thrashed and wailed, but wouldn't die. I bought 2 more 10 inch subs and mounted them the same way. The worked fine, like the other ones, but after a while, the same thing starts to happen and then I shut it down. The subs react when: I tap the module I hit a pot hole I touch them while their powered up Turn the gain past 10 oclock I've checked for loose wires, connections, I've taped the leads, the connections, the wires. Any thoughts? Thanks
PUT YOU SUS INTO A BOX , OR SELL ME YOUR AMP, THANKS
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
The ZR series amps had several problems that could be an issue for your amp. The modules failed and caused intermittent problems. If you know someone with a similar amp, try to borrow their module. The solder connections on the vertical board (the one the module pluges into) develops cracks in the solder connection where the vertical board connects to the main board. The amps have a fuse that is connected in series between the input RCA shield and the secondary ground. This fuse can be blown by shorted speaker wires (shorting to chassis ground). It's a surface mount fuse that's under the main board. Virtually all of these should be checked and/or repaired by a qualified technician. There is also the possibility that the head unit is damaged (assuming the head unit is connected directly to the amp). If the shields for the RCA jacks are open, it can cause the same problems as when the shield fuse opens in the amplifier. To check the shields of the head unit, you unplug all of the RCA cables from the head unit and measure the resistance between the shield of the RCA output jack and the case of the head unit. There should be no more than ~1-2 ohms resistance between any of the RCA output jack shields and the case. If there is significant resistance or it's open, the head unit needs to be repaired.
Posted on Sep 16, 2007
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 25, 2012 | Car Amplifiers
Jun 29, 2012 | Car Amplifiers
Mar 04, 2011 | Jl Audio 250/1 Car Audio Amplifier
Mar 16, 2010 | Kicker ZR360 Car Audio Amplifier
May 19, 2009 | Clarion APX1300 Subwoofer Mono Amp - 300W...
Sep 22, 2008 | Xtant A3001 Car Audio Amplifier
Sep 08, 2008 | Car Amplifiers
340 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!