Question about Craftsman 17.5 hp 42 in. Deck Lawn Tractor - CA Model
It is a 17.5 hp briggs craftsman 42" I have a new battery and it is fully charged( good cranking amps not the cheapy ) new gas it will start but only if I jump itand runs fine but hard to get stated. I acctually have to rotate the engine till it reaches top compression to get it to turn over Please help any and all is appreciated Kevin
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like the compression release is not working,it works by opening the exhaust valve during engine cranking.For the compression release to work the valves have to be adjusted,especially after the engine is broken in.Set the engine to top dead center on the compression stroke,the exhaust valve should be set to .004 and the intake to .002. I think you will find the exhaust valve is way too wide which is causing the hard crank problem.Set the valves by adjusting the nuts on the rocker arms,it should be a torx set screw located in the rocker arm.First back the torx screw out about a turn then hand tighten the rocker stud with the feeler gage in place then tighten the torx screw down to lock the setting.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
SOURCE: Craftsman 14.5 hp 42
Make sure that you have 12vdc at the carb solenoid. If you do, next check your compression. You can do this with a compression gauge or by taking the spark plug out and placing your thumb over the hole and turning over the engine. If you are building compression it will blow your finger off the hole. If not check your valves to make sure they have the right clearance.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
try to make sure all connections are clean. i have this same machine that does exactly what you are saying. if battery is all charged up. try setting parking brake.Put in neutral, get off the machine and turn the key. this is what i do and machine cranks fast and starts. my issue is in that saftey switch in my seat.
Posted on Sep 22, 2010
SOURCE: I have an 18.5 Briggs
My name is Dane and I'm going to help you with this. I need you to do a couple of steps for me, and one involves using a voltmeter. You can pick up a cheap one at a hardware store or auto parts store. They will even show you how to use it if you need them too. It will come in very handy around the house and well worth the $15.00 you will have to pay for it. Put your battery on a charger while you get the meter so it will be fully charged later. When the battery is charged, remove the charger.
I want you to set the meter up for Volts DC and (With the engine OFF) place the red lead on your battery positive terminal and black lead on the battery negative terminal. If your battery is charged ok, it should be around 12 volts.
Now, I want you to start your tractor, and check the voltage again with the engine running. Do it the same way you did with the engine off. If you are getting around 13.5 - 15V, your mower is charging and you probably have a bad battery. Check your terminals and make sure they're clean and tight. If you got the same voltage with the engine on as you did with the engine off, make sure the electrical connectors coming out from under the shroud of your engine are all connected. I've been doing this for a while now and I've never had a stator go bad yet. Not saying they won't, but it's very rare. To change the stator, which is actually like a car alternator, you have to remove the top cover of your engine and pull the flywheel off. It's normally bolted to the top of the engine block under the flywheel. If you come back and tell me the stator's bad, I'll tell you how to do it. But for now, I think you'll have enough information to get back running again.
Just a note. Those stores which use the resistance type battery testers. The ones that Glow red when they test your battery. They can't really properly test your battery unless your battery is fully charged to begin with. Amazing how much money they make on that little "FREE" test.
Ok, if you have any more problems with this, just add a comment on the bottom of this post. I hope I've helped! Thank you! Dane
Posted on Dec 16, 2010
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