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Re: GE AGQ10AJ - Compressor not turning on
Most of the cases when tou heard a click on and off is aproblem with the compresor that goes off on overload, when the compresor try to start and is stuck , burned or the starting coil inside it is open it's overheat and goes off by the thermo bimetal switch.Also could be the capacitor, to check it you need a capacitor tester,but if you don't have it you can try to put anew one (no more than 10 $) and see what happend if still the compresor is getting hot and won't turn on it's burned, jamed or open , and you have to replce it ,if it's less than a year old it should be under warranty but if not is an expensive job and you better get a new unit.
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www.applianceaid.com > ... > Refrigerator Help Section
I heard a sizzling noise inside my freezer section and it looked like something ... Myfridge makes a bang noise when it shuts off; My Frost free fridge will not run at all; Myfridge is making screeching/squeak noises; My GE SxS fridge door has ... an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps ( see model/serial tag ...
FREE ONLINE GE refrigerator repair manual - Diagnose and troubleshoot ... to know basically how the bloomin' thing works, and then get on with fixing it? ... Chapter 5: GErefrigerator problem: Refrigerator is not cold and compressor is ... Do you have somequestions that you would like to ask a professional GE repairman.
Pull the refrigerator out and remove the back bottom panel. Also remove the kick plate in the front. The condenser coils are probably dirty (if you've never cleaned them, they are probably LAYERED with debris). Get everything cleaned out under there, be sure the condenser fan (in the back of the refrigerator) is working and see if that doesn't help. Dirty condenser coils can exhibit the exact same symptoms as more serious problems like a failing compressor.
Good Morning David - Here are
some simple troubleshooting tips to help resolve this issue:
If the outside temperature or inside temperature is below 60
degrees, the unit may not run.
Confirm that the unit has power to it.
Check the power cord connection to the wall outlet is secure.
Make sure that the house circuit breaker has not tripped.
Make sure the unit is turned off, Press the TEST button, you will notice a
click as the BUTTON pops out. Then press the RESET button. Again, you will
notice a click as the button engages, now turn unit on. If the LCDI plug does not
reset the cord may be damaged.
The "Cool" circuit has an automatic 3-minute compressor time delayed start if
the unit is turned off and on quickly. This prevents overheating of the
compressor and possible circuit breaker tripping and the fan will continue to
run during this time.
If the unit has been turned off and on rapidly or if the thermostat was changed
to a lower number and then immediately turned back to a higher number the
compressor may not start. You must turn the unit off and wait a minimum of 3
minutes for the unit to equalize before restarting.
I would recommend reaching
out to an experienced appliance tech just to ensure no troubleshooting step has
been missed. Parts are often costly and if the problem is precisely diagnosed,
it can save you a lot of time and funds. I hope these troubleshooting tips help
you in some small way.
Most window units are circuit board controlled. Most all electrical circuits like the fan motor, compressor, and heating, are powered through the circuit board, and distributed through different circuits in that board(control board). I would guess you have a circuit board malfunction. It's possible the thermostat is sticking, allowing the control board to misread a return air temp. Without some troubleshooting it will be difficult to pinpoint the problem but I'd bet it's one of the two.
If the compressor seems to be cycling as normal,
either the system needs recharged or the temperature controller has failed. If
the compressor is running at all, it is probably OK. Diagnosing it remotely is only guess-work, I
recommend (if in the US) that you check with the local BBB for a trustworthy
service company to assess your unit. If a recharge is needed, this is not a DIY job
since it requires opening a sealed system and soldering it shut after the
coolant is at the proper pressure. Replacing the temp controller might be possible
but better done by a pro since the location of the sensor tip may not be easy
to find. Another (albeit less likely) is the failure of
the defrost timer which could keep the heater on while trying to cool. The timer is often located behind the lower trim
grill and should be a small box with connections. Some have a slotted shaft protruding from the
case that can be turned with a common screwdriver. Checking the switch contacts inside can be done
by waiting until you hear the compressor running and then slowly turning the
shaft until the compressor shuts off again; this would represent the defrost
cycle. If you advance the shaft another 1/4 turn and
leave it there, after the compressor stabilizes again, it should turn on. Mark the position of the timer shaft and then
recheck a couple of hours later. If its shaft has turned, the timer is probably
OK. They typically have either a 24 or 48 hours
cycle so the shaft movement isn't easy to detect over a few minutes time. Good luck-
System refrigerant must be recovered prior to any work done on replacing any part of the sealed system, Recovery unit required at about $750.00. After recovery the compressor lines must be disconnected by heating to a temperature above 1385°F, Torch required , cost about $350. The compressor electrical wires must be disconnected. The motor mounts must be disconnected by removing clips or bolts. The compressor can then be removed. The new compressor can now be installed and the mounts connected. The piping can be cleaned fluxed and re-soldered using a high temperature alloy such as #45 silver solder. #15 if the stub tubes of the compressor are copper. A new system filter/dryer must be installed. Electrical wires must be connected to the new compressor. A deep vacuum must be pulled on the system to remove and air , moisture and non-condensible gases for the internal system. Then you can charge the system by weight to the exact amount shown on the system name plate and the proper tyep of refrigerant.
So the answer is yes it is difficult and requires a good technician to be done properly.
If the unit is out of warranty it is not recommended that the compressor be replaced at you expense.
There is a timer that determines the defrost of the cooling coil inside the back wall of the freezer. defrost timer may be located in the area of the controls for temperature. Look for a hole in that area and recessed in that hole you may find a clutch head screw. Turn this screw clockwise very SLOWLY until you hear one click. The freezer coil will be in the defrost mode for 18-22 minutes and then the refrigerator should return to the cooling mode. Make sure the condenser is clean and free of dust and dirt. Condenser is where the heat is removed from the refrigeration system and on most models it is located in back behind a removable panel. Reinstall the panel after cleaning the condenser.