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Keeps freezing up after replacing defrost heater and defrost t'stat unit goes into defrost but heater does not get hot.

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You need to replace the defrost board. its the board at the back, on the right hand corner at the bottom of the fridge. this is not inside it's outside on the back of the fridge. this controls defrost system.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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Heat pump i dont know the model


The "R" terminal on the back of the stat should be 24 volt supply to the stat. For a heat pump, when the stat calls for heat, the "W" terminal goes hot (24 V) and should actuate the reversing valve and start the outside unit for heat. when the stat calls for cooling, The "Y" terminal goes hot and starts the outside unit without the reversing valve. The heat strip is used to temper the air while the outside coil is defrosting when in heating. You need an OHM meter to test for a short in the heat strip. A lot of installers are wiring it to heat all the time when in the heating mode if the heat output is too low on really cold days. Try jumping "R" to "Y" and the outside unit should start. Disconnect the heat strip from power while testing. This is really brief, its a big subject. Good luck.

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How to test maytag refrigerator defrost thermostat


on your model the thermostat comes with a new heater
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Heater-Assembly/61006116/1021756
you have to read the t-stat when it's cold,unplug the harness,stick one end into the harness and stick the tip of the other probe into the other wire of the t-stat,or seeing that you have to replace the heater and t-stat anyway cut the two wires going to the t-stat,wire nut them together,manually turn the timer knob to put it into defrost and if the heater comes on you know the t-stat is bad.you can leave the heater on and get a hair dryer,melt out all the ice and then disconnect the t-stat wires and tape them or wirenut them,this way your machine will run for 10 to 12 days before it freezes up again giving you time to order your parts and you won't loose any food.when you get new parts melt out any ice again and change heater and t-stat.most likely the t-stat is bad,common problem.

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ATB1935HRW


hi john.not freezing could be anything but i would start by checking if u have any ice build up in the freezer.if yes defrost everything first completely and try.if ok great.if same again after a few days then i think your problem will be either 1-defrost timer 2-defrost heater 3-t/stat 4-if not iced up at all check door switch/fanmotor 5-check/clean condensing unit 6-check cond/fan 7-check motor (visual/feel/noise (hot or cold and running noise) 8-condenser warm(if cold could be lack of refrigerant;internal leak or motor)hope this helps good luck.Ali

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The fridge is not cooling and the freeze is working. There is ice on back of the refrigerator and frosting up in the freeze on the back panel. The fan is running. Model number is 363.9527710 side by side


This refrigerator was made by GE for Kenmore.
The frost in the back of the freezer is telling you that you have and automatic defrosting problem.
This can be caused by the defrost timer:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2061695
or
The defrost heating element:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2635762
or wiring.

Most of the time the defrost control stops advancing so the unit never defrosts. This is what causes the ice to build up. There are 2 tabs on the defrost control face. Find the defrost control and the rotate the dial with a flat blade until the compressor shuts off. This is the defrost cycle. You should notice that it may start making weird noises in the defrost cycle. Pop Bang... etc.

What you can do to get about 3 good days of use out of it is to unplug the unit.. direct a fan into the freezer compartment with the contents removed for just over 2 hours. (makes a water mess!)
After the 2 hour period, re-load freezer contents and return the unit to normal use. It will work fine for up to 3 days and then start freezing up again.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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I think your voltage is fine I just believe the defrost timer is worn out and not cycling properly resulting in less defrost and higher refrigerator temperatures. Thanks, sea Breeze

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1 Answer

The refrigerator side of my side-by-side is freezing the food instead of keeping it cool no matter what setting it is on.


Your defrost t-stat is probaly out. You should check the heater also and replace what ever part is out before it takes out the other defrost parts. Hope this helps.

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I'm assuming you're meaning that you reset the "cold control" in the refrigerator area and it is not responding. Try resetting the T stat in the freezer to between 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 and see if the unit continues to run on. If I have this the other way around, set the "cold control" the same as the T stat. The "cold control" is just a flapper door, it doesn't control the compressor only the T stat in the freezer does..
If the T stat is set as I said and the unit just keeps on running and never shuts down except to defrost, the T stat is bad and needs replaced.
There is a chance that the flapper door in the "cold control" is stuck wide open. Removing the cover and inspecting it might tell you if that's happening.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool side by side ED25DQXWN00 freezer stopped freezing


is the fan by compressor running? is the fan in the freezer running? is the compressor running or just trying and clicking periodically? if one of the fans isnt running..replace if compressor is clicking every so often..replace compressor start relay. lastly...is there frost in freezer on back wall towards bottom? defrost control/defrost t-stat/defrost heater.

Jun 08, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Freezer not working


Hi, are you getting ice or frost build up.
The most common part that goes bad on these are the defrost heaters. THe defrost heater is below the evaporator coil and usually has a blue and pink wire to it. Test the heater for continuity. If it tests open, replace the heater. If it tests closed, check continuity on the bi-metal stat located on top the evaporator fast to the coil. The bi-metal stat has to be tested cold. Again, if it tests open, replace it.
If both of these test ok. you wil need to replace the defrost control.
Please let me know if this has helped you or if I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

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