Before adding the Zoom Lens (Tamron), I see black spots when looking through the viewfinder's image screen. I can't seem to use a "puffer" to blow any debris away. Is there a kit I can buy to clean the mirror? Or is this a different area to clean?
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A 35-80 mm lens is 2.3X zoom. Divide 80 by 35 and you'll get the result.
It is usually better to know what the focal length of a lens in "35 mm equivalent" is and judge by that, rather than relying on the "X" power of the lens. For instance, most point and shoot cameras start at about 35 mm and have either a 3X or 4X zoom. This would make it a 35-105 or a 35-140. I've seen some that start at 28 mm, though. A 3X starting at 28 mm is 28-84 and a 4X is 28-112. Neither one is a particularly strong telephoto lens and the 4X is just about the same as the 3X that starts out at 35 mm.
It's also important to realize that tradition dictates that lens focal lengths are usually expressed in terms of "35 mm equivalent," where "35 mm" refers to a 35 mm film camera. This is because of the relation between the sensor size and the actual focal length of the lens and the resultant angle of view of the lens.
I have one point & shoot that is actually a 5.8-24 mm zoom. This is a 4X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 28-116 mm. The sensor is 7.2x5.3 mm. (1/1.8") (And I wish I knew someone who could explain how the heck they came up with sensor size terminology!)
I have another point & shoot that is actually a 5.7-17.1 mm zoom. This is a 3X zoom. The 35 mm equivalent is 34-102 mm. "How could a shorter focal length give a longer 35 mm equivalent?" you might ask. It's because the sensor is only about 5x4 mm. (1/2.5")
I have a few Nikon DSLR's and - thankfully - they all have the same size sensor. They all have a "lens factor" of 1.5. This means that you just multiply the actual focal length of the lens to get the 35 mm equivalent and then you can make comparisons accurately from camera-to-camera. Most Canon's, for instance, have a lens factor of 1.6. On a Nikon DSLR, a 28 mm lens is the "35 mm equivalent" of a 42 mm lens. On most Canon DSLR's, the same 28 mm lens is the equivalent of a 45 mm lens.
These example are just to show you how freaking confusing it can all become if you try to make sense of the "X" power of a zoom lens.
Check the 35 mm equivalent specifications for the lens. This way, you will be leveling the field and comparing apples to apples. More or less.
Both. The Nikon N75 is a 35mm SLR camera. 35mm refers to the size of the film the camera uses. SLR (single-lens-reflex) refers to the design of the camera, which uses the same lens for both viewing and photographing, the film sees the same image you see in the viewfinder.
There are other 35mm cameras that are not SLRs. Likewise, there are SLRs that use other sizes of film.
Description: Sleek and stylish, the exciting new Nikon One-Touch Zoom 90QD offers real zoom power in a lightweight, easy-to-use design. The One-Touch Zoom 90QD has a sharp, clear, 2.5x zoom lens with a 38-90mm range and a macro mode for shots as close as 11 inches. The One-Touch Zoom 90QD features a built-in automatic flash with five versatile modes (auto flash, anytime flash, flash cancel, slow sync and red-eye reduction). The active infrared autofocus, infinity focus (for landscapes and faraway subjects), real-image zoom viewfinder and fully automatic exposure control all help to ensure clear and balanced photos.
1 x 3V Lithium Battery (CR-2)
Point and Shoot
Minimum Focus Distance
ISO Range - Automatic Setting
ISO 100 - 800
Red Eye Reduction
With Red Eye Reduction
With Zoom Lens
38 mm - 90 mm
User Manual can not be found up to now. Very soon will be available.
I'm unfamiliar with the F80 but on models like the f65 and f75 the viewfinder screen has an lcd overlay and when the battery is exhausted or removed the viewfinder goes dark and blurry.
Looking at a picture of the f80 it looks like it's just an update on my f75 so it strongly suggests that you just need to insert a fresh battery. The lcd does draw power from the battery even with the camera turned off.
I hope that you found my answer useful, once you've tried another battery to confirm what I've suggested I'd appreciate it if you return the favour by rating my answer.
Autofocus function on the D40 only supports lenses with the
AF-S feature, which have an autofocus motor built into the lens,
instead of using an autofocus motor drive built into the camera.
The Tamron lens you have, does not have a built in motor and
the autofocus function relies on the motor drive in the camera.
It will not work with the D40 or D60, but it will work with other
Nikon digital SLRs, such as the D80. Need to get an AF-S
type lens or upgrade to different Nikon digital SLR. Unless
you do this, you will have to manually focus the Tamron lens.
All of the Nikon DX (for digital) series lenses are also AF-S
type, so they will work with the D40, which is designed as
an entry level digital SLR, therefore it is intended primarily
for use with DX lenses, which are typically sold in a kit with
the D40. Most common one is Nikkor 18-55mm DX AF-S.
Other Nikon AF-S lenses made for film cameras (FX type)
will also work with the D40, but these tend to be expensive
professional models. DX series lenses tend to be more
affordable. You might consider the 18-200mm DX AF-S
as an alternative to the Tamron, but these are not cheap.
My Nikon was having the same problem with the stationary black spot. I used a can of Dust Off ( the original compressed gas duster). I just removed the lens and held the camera upside down (lens facing the floor) and blew my compressed air inside and my black spot disappeared. Just a thought you might like to know !! Good luck.